N601RX

Here is a video of my inline filter after a DG failure. It protects the instruments from pump failure and pump from instrument failure. The filter was still clean 5 hrs before the DG failed. At the time it failed all the lines and filters were less than 1 year old so I assume most of the stuff came from the DG as it failed. Vac Filter.MOV

Perhaps you can trace the $72 part and post it for us less fortunate.

Now you have money for that engine monitor you ordered!

At the point the pump fails all the gyro cans are at under a vacuum. Additionally if you have the vac powered step and Brittain PC system all these cans are under a vacuum. Essentially all theses devices become a network of storage tanks for the vacuum. When the pump stops the stored up vacuum pulls air in from the pump as it is bled down. There is also the possibility that the cabin air is at a lower pressure than the area around the vac pump. If this is true then air will continue to flow from the pump back into the instruments. That's the reason for the inline filter between the pump and regulator. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/Inline_airfilter.php

You should be able to just order part number ATH-1. I'm not sure if the longer studs and gasket come with a new order or not. The one I installed was used and I had to buy the studs and gasket separately. Give Chris a call at the factory, he is very helpful.

I had the same worry before I started. The only thing I had to remove was the oil filter. If you remove the oblong shaped disc that connects to the control cable there is just enough room to get it out if you tilt it to the correct angle. Three of the nuts can be removed from the top and the other from the copilot side after removing the heater duct. Once you get the old one out there is plenty of room to put the PCU5000 back in. It took around 3 hrs. A stubby 1/2 combo wrench will help. You may need to grind down a 7/16 boxed in wrench to get the cable bracket off the old governor.

Is everything ok if your not changing them? What kind of external battery are you using? Is there some kind of cigarette lighter adapter involved, or does your battery pack allow the usb to plug directly into it. Some of the cigarette lighter adapters are noisy. I have one from Sporty's that isn't causing any problems. There are also some TSO units panel mount chargers that have filtering built in, but they are the $300 range.

No.

The problem is that some insurance brokers are not getting quotes from all the underwriters. If you are sure the one you are talking to is then there is no reason to call any others. A good broker will forward you the quote from each underwriter as they receive them. Airpower does this and actually advised me to wait for one of the underwriters to respond with a quote as they felt they would offer the best quote for my situation. It may take 3-4 days to get all the quotes back.

You also need a new crush washer for the strainer.

I decided to go with the Transcal encoder a couple of years ago. It's about half the sized of the others and has both serial and parallel output. It also has a feature where the shop can connect it to a laptop computer and type in correction values for each 1000 ft increment which are stored in EPROM.

The older planes did not come with alternate static unless it was added latter. Assuming your transponder doesn't display the altitude from the encoder, it can be displayed on older most panel mount gps if the encoder wired into the gps. It is often found on the maintaince screen. Some of the portable traffic watch systems such as the Monroy also display the transmitted altitude.

No, I just used double nuts and they came out pretty easy.

I recently purchased and installed the PCU 5000 governor that was listed in the For Sale section. The install was pretty straight forward, but it does require replacing the 4 mounting studs with longer ones. It's a couple of pounds lighter and much smaller. I was pleasantly surprised at the extra room it opened up around the lower back side of the engine. You can easily access the fuel pump and even the sump oil screen from the top side. The cable bracket adaptor was missing as well as the control arm adaptor. I called PCU and the sent pictures to confirm what it should look like. They sold me the missing parts which was priced very reasonable. Then they wanted to know the serial number of it so they could transfer it to my name and address in their records and informed me that it was still under warranty even though I wasn't the original purchaser. Seems like a very upstanding company who has a good product. Attached are a couple of pictures. I wish I had made a picture of old one installed to show the extra room it created.

Does your C require a primary EGT? My F list it as optional equipment.

The entire calipar assembly is very expensive. If I remember correctly around $700 each. I found you could buy just the new housing and then use the other parts off the old one to build up a good calipar for a little over $200 each.

Give Airpower a call and let them run some different hypothetical situations for you. Several members on here use them and have been happy with the quotes. They will shop it with all the underwriters and let you choose. I was a low time pilot and wanted 1M Smooth coverage and they were able to get it for me. Before that I was using a local company who after the 2nd year I found out that they were not shopping the renewal around each year. http://www.airpowerinsurance.com/

Which master cylinders do you have? Is it the original paramount which are black steel or the newer Gerdes/Cleveland which are aluminum? The newer ones are easier to bleed. Its likely the air is getting trapped in the upper half of the master cylinder. It will help greatly if someone sets in the plane and pumps the pedals slowly while the other person pushes fluid up through the system. Are you using some type of pressure pot to push the fluid?

Its easy to convert over to a spin on filter. The PMA version of the filter adapter is only around $150 and it just bolts on.

The cylinders and valve guides need to be checked out really well and figure out why the valve was sticking. They can look for carbon when removing the valves. The guides/valves will need to be replaced if worn. If the valve to guide clearances are all within spec, then start looking at other areas as operational Cht's on that cylinder, not leaning, not enough oil flow to the valves/rockers, worn rocker arms and thrust washers creating sideload on valves ect. There have been discussions that the new style lifters do not provide as much oil to the rocker box area as the old ones.

I have one with a heading bug and autopilot output. It worked when removed but has set a while so it may need a overhaul soon. You could use it as just a heading bug and not hook up the autopilot output. I can get it out tonight and send you a picture. Best I remember it the face was clean.

I prefer my plane to a new $30,000 vehicle every few years. I put 130 miles per day on a car so its pretty much going to be worthless in 5- 6 years. In my situation buying a new car every 5-6 years is like throwing away $5,000 year. So I currently drive a 2001 Jetta TDI with 455,000 mile that I paid $6000 for 8 years ago and fly a Mooney that is paid for. I see people on here regularly comment that their plane isn't worth what they paid for it 5 years ago or that they can never get their money back out of it. Do they feel the same way about the vehicles they own? New vehicle depreciation is much worse than 40 year old planes.

Many well respected Lycoming experts have came out and said a sticking valve can damage the cam. Here is one below. Complete article here. http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182894-1.html?redirected=1 "What happens whan a valve sticks? When an engine has a stuck valve, one of five things can happen, each of which is bad news: The pushrod bends. The surface of the camshaft or cam follower fails. The valve opens but won't close. The rocker support breaks. The valve rotator cap falls off the end of the valve stem. (Lycomings only.) A valve that sticks closed will often result in serious and costly engine damage. Each time the cam-tappet-pushrod-rocker try to open that stuck valve, you risk catastrophic engine damage. With a stuck valve, the valve doesn't want to move. Tremendous valve train forces develop as the camshaft lobe tries to force the valve open. The camshaft follower and lobe are the most highly-stressed components of the engine even under normal conditions...the additional loading caused by a stuck valve may induce catastrophic failure of the rocker support, pushrod, cam follower, or cam lobe. A damaged camshaft lobe requires complete engine removal and teardown. The same is true of a damaged cam follower if it is the mushroom-head variety used in many Lycoming engines. Sometimes an exhaust valve that is stuck closed can cause the intake pushrod to bed or the intake rocker support boss to break. How can this happen? If the exhaust valve sticks closed, exhaust gases will not exit from the cylinder. Gas pressure within the cylinder then prevents the intake valve from opening. If this happens, something's gotta give. Either the pushrod bends or the rocker support breaks. You might think that a valve that sticks open is a much less serious situation, but that's not necessarily so. If the valve is an intake valve, you lose power and will need to make a forced landing. If the valve is an exhaust valve, there will not be any compression on that cylinder. In either case, if the valve spring can't close the valve, the entire valve train (cam follower, pushrod, and rocker arm) unloads. The end of the pushrod that rests in the socket in the cam follower may come out of the socket and fling around inside the tappet boss. If the pushrod ball does not locate itself back into the socket when the cam lobe comes around, it may jam against the tappet housing, usually causing crankcase damage. The valve rotator cap on Lycoming engines is kept on the tip of the exhaust valve stem by the rocker arm. If the valve sticks open, the rocker may move far enough away to allow the rotator cap to fall off the valve stem tip. When this happens, not only is valve clearance excessive, but also the rocker face pounds into the spring seat. The rotator cap is too big to fall down the pushrod tubes. It just lays in the rocker box until you take the rocker box off. It then quietly falls unnoticed onto the hangar floor. If you notice a missing rotator cap, it is likely that the exhaust valve was stuck open in the past. Look in the rocker box or around the hangar floor and you might find it. Engine damage does not always occur when the valve sticks, but the longer the engine operates in this condition, the greater the chances are that some damage will occur."

Here are a few of the problems I remember from a few years ago. Be sure the tang is correct for your switch. Check the depth behind the compass, there is an angled bar that limits depth. Leave room for a lighting scheme, nulights work great but require a little extra spacing. The sure the yoke bearing mounting screws are not in the way of the DG. Add appropriate cut outs for instruments such as DG, altimeter and others not all use 4 mounting screws.

When we installed my Brittain altitude hold we just crimped the connectors and ends on the end of the cables that connected to the control rods. I think it was 1/16 cable from Spruce. Does your use special ends or something?