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N601RX

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Everything posted by N601RX

  1. Be sure he is using the newer install manual for the 830 when comparing part numbers. They changed some of their pn's a couple of years ago.
  2. I did the same thing last summer. The cht and egt probes and harnesses are the same pn. Fuel flow, tach sensor and oat are also the same. Oil pressure, temp, mp are different. Fuel pressure, fuel level and current shunt have to be added.
  3. The black goes to the airframe. With the red lead prob each side of the switch, breaker ect to make sure you have voltage coming to it and and leaving.
  4. I have personally met a few of the lawyers we have on here including Jim. There were all upstanding people who I would trust with a handshake and their word. Its the 4 different firms that have at least 20 commercials during the 30 minute local morning news who give others a bad name. All their themes seems to center around " No matter how little you MAY think you are hurt, just say no to the insurance company and give us a call". We can get you more! They then proceed with having their former clients telling how much money they got for them and how easy it was.
  5. Plane Plastics has it. Some have also replaced it with carpet. Aero comfort has leather replacement boots for the J-Bar.
  6. You really don't want to measure current at the points mentioned above, just measure the voltage to ground. Start at the alternator and work backwards until you find the point where the voltage is present. Some regulators also have an enable and remote sense line.
  7. I believe I heard a while back that Lasar had it and was parting it out.
  8. I don't think all this taking place in one day is going to happen. Him fly the plane 300 miles to you. Open the plane up and perform the detailed inspection Close everything back up Agree on what need fixing Complete the transaction Fly him 300 miles back home. You fly the plane 300 miles back home. Your looking a a few to several days not one.
  9. Although not any longer available I installed one of the last SWTA 201 kits sold. The corner opening is plenty large for me to get my hand in. I've been able to remove the starting vibrator this way which is almost dead center. You can also remove a couple of the radio trays or slide out the engine monitor if you need better access to the center area. If the trays are mounted with nutplates or rivetnuts it only takes a few minutes to remove the tray and leave the back plate and connectors in place. This opens up a large area to work through and only adds a few minutes to the job. Probably less than properly resealing the original access panels.
  10. You will have to remove the exhaust cavity cover to rotate it. It is connected to aluminum tubing on the back side so don't let anyone try to twist it without loosening the flare nut on the aluminum tubing.
  11. The drilled hole is a specific size and specific distance from the bottom. I'm clueless as to the logic of this one, but it is the result of an AD that only affects planes that has bladders. Rags, I also noticed your fuel line exits the firewall fitting and goes downward creating a low spot in the bottom of the loop for water to collect. It should exit at the 10 o'clock position to eliminate the low spot. See SB 20-166.
  12. Get the 1 PC even if it's not the 201 style. I have the solar grey also.
  13. It has a oring, leather washer and spiral ring inside as well as a few other seals. Lasar sells a kit that has everything in it. Don't loose any of the balls, springs or ball seats when it comes apart. You may want to check the condition of the rear slave cylinder and the 2 hoses also. It's easier to do it all at once if needed. It's a little hard to get oil back into the pump as it will tend to airlock until it gets some oil back in it.
  14. Unless the fluid has jelled it is likely either the cable broken or the screw that holds the arm on. If you look at the attachement a few post above on page 6-15 you can see the screw and arm. The cable attaches to the end of the arm.
  15. You should be able to give a gentle tug on the inboard part to see if there stuck or the spring is broken. It's also likely the "lawn mower" type cable is broken or has slipped in the screw that holds it. You can remove the front belly panel and see if it is actually moving the arm on the valve or not.
  16. There is a strip of a strip of aluminum angle rivet to the aluminum skin. The other leg of the angle comes down beside the tube and is screwed to it. You would have to cut a notch in the aluminum angle to get the belt around the tube.
  17. How does it affect speed? We were camping at Sun N Fun beside a cessna 182 used it. The owner said it cost him some speed and climb.
  18. I didn't do test before and after, but there is a noticeable difference in how for it hangs down on the front vs back. It's also nice to have the caliper easily visible on the preflight.
  19. I've had the pickup suck air with 8-9 gallons in the tank during a hard slip. Not a good feeling to hear the engine sputter 200 ft off the ground.
  20. The main differences will be the systems. Manual vs electric, autopilots, injected engine, ect
  21. The dukes used on the injected motors is a vane style pump. The shaft seal is spring/pac-seal style. DG has developed its own overhaul procedures using non Duke parts so the seals are available from somewhere.
  22. If item #26 is what the original poster is talking about it the radio stack air duct.
  23. The small hose and shutoff valve feed the vent shown in the attached picture. It is mounted behind the radio stack and provides ram air cooling to radios. Most all modern radios caution against using ram air for cooling and many have removed it and replaced with a fan with tube ran to each radio.
  24. Original style circuit breakers used in 67F. These were working when removed for panel upgrade. 1-2 amp 4- 5 amp 2-10 amp 1-50 amp 1-60 amp Hate to throw them away- $20 for all Interior trim panel around top half of front window, not needed anymore after 201 window upgrade. Has a couple of very small cracks along the front edge, but not brittle. $20
  25. Living in the south I would prefer cylinder temp sensors mounted in the factory location over heaters mounted in the same holes also.
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