N601RX

you can buy it with or without the adhesive. I used the non adhesive so I can remove and look behind it when desired. Use poster paper for templates and trim until it fits correctly. Then transfer pattern to material and cut. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/soundproofinstall.php?clickkey=7630 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/supersoundproofsheet.php

Aircraft Spruce

I have a 67F also. If I remember correctly it uses the 2566rpm tach also. If your not sure if the tach is reading correctly there is an Iphone app call Engine RPM that works off engine sound. I've found that it always matches my JPI exactly.

I used 1/4 solar grey all the way around. The amount of tint is just right. It helps in the daytime, but isn't dark enough cause problems at night.

It looks like he is covering most of the basics. I looked back through the list of stuff we replaced in my engine 2 years ago saw a few other things in addition to the ones you mentioned that I needed. Some of them were due to corrosion, others were just worn. I had mags with less than 100 hrs on them and just reused them and the fuel servo. As mentioned before the rotating internals were balanced by aircraft specialties and flow matched lifters were used. My only regret is that I didn't go ahead and have the cylinders ported and flow matched. After doing my engine we did my IA's cessna and another friend who both has similar cessna 172's. One used flow matched cylinders and the other one didn't. There is a noticeable difference in the two. Crank Gear Accessory Idler Gears tach shaft oil pump housing oil pump shaft oil pressure ball and spring Vernathern Fuel pump pushrod Intercylinder baffels oil drain back tubes rebushed and reground rockers hydraulic internals for the lifters pushrod cups for lifters new pushords- length incorrect on old ones after engine overhaul through bolts new cylinder nuts new hoses- lasar oil cooler relocation kit is a good option here if you don't already have it.

I don't think many will sell at this price, the panel is very basic. I'm surprised they didn't go ahead and make it ifr and adsb compliant. Many of the large flight schools are in or near class C airspace. I've saw several very nice owner restored ones with 150hp conversion, gross weight increase and 430W advertised for less than 50K. The regular really nice ones usually top out at under $30K. Basic but in good condition is less than $20K.

I purchased them one size smaller than the jack shaft as the jacks shafts I had are not a normal size and then machined them out to the exact size. I was curious about how much it would take to make them slip so I took one of them to work and put in on one of the presses in our lab. The press has a load cell and distance measurement built into it. With the bolts torqued to 45 ft lbs it took around 5000lbs for force for the collar began to move on the shaft. That matched up pretty closely with the calculated values using metal hardness and clamping force.

Does anyone know if the 1499-00-19A can be rebuilt as a 1499-00-19 so there is no need for the inline strainer?

You can get a brand new io360A1A crank for $4500 so it's really only about a $3800 difference vs grinding and rectifying the old one.

There is quite a bit of sheet metal work to do before putting the bladder in the hole. I have some of the older ones. I had to replace the cork gaskets around the inspection plates a few years ago. The bladders themselves still looked good and were still soft and flexible. I didn't remove them but did pull them back enough I could see the spar and surrounding skin and ribs. There was no sign of any corrosion. The spar caps and most of the spar was still covered with the original pro seal.

I've met him at a fly in before and watched him perform a couple of times. He has good routines. I would like to go up for one of his weekend courses sometime.

Tom, Greg is close to you has his own private runway you can fly into and bed and breakfast you can stay in. http://www.gkairshows.com/Newsite/Training/Training.html

Sell her current headset and get her a pair of Zulu2's. They are very comfortable and will stream music from Apple devices over bluetooth. Unless of course you are just trying to get her buy in on your new pma8000BT audio panel.

The centri lub cost me $500 a couple of years ago and the Ney nozzels were about $300 at the time. I chose the centri lub as something extra I could do to help with cam and lifter problems. Their literature makes a good argument that it does help. The extra oil and lower surface temps can't hurt. http://www.centri-lube.com/technologies.html

Is only #1 spalled? Continuing to run with a sticking valve can damage the lobe on that goes to that valve.

I can dig out my balance report when I get home and post it, but if I remember correctly they removed about 10grams each from 2 of the throw. The small ends of my rods were pretty close but the big ends needed about 7 grams removed. The pistons came as a balanced set. I think aircraft specialties charged me an extra 175 to balance the crank while grinding it. The nice thing about working with someone like Sam is they have much more flexibility and will do whatever you want done. Just understand what his base rebuild includes and what is optional or extras you may want before the rebuild is started. I also opted for the centri lub cam mod to help with issues some cams have had. Ney nozzles are another option

I would ask for a list of new parts and machine work that is included in his quoted rebuild and what would be considered extra. I overhauled our engine with my IA helping and his quote for parts is enough to cover the more commonly used parts, but not enough to cover everything that could be bad. Ask specifically about cam, lifters, pistons,pins and cylinders. Cylinders are obviously being reused. Nothing wrong with that if they are lower time, but ask what work and parts he plans to perform and replace on them. Also asked him to include a full dynamic balance of the rotating parts. It only cost a few hundred extra and will make the engine very smooth.

What is the price difference between that and buying a primary unit that is new and will replace all the gauges? I purchased a jpi 900 last spring for $2895 durring sun n fun and then sold the old removed gauges for around $400

It looks like it hit with some nose down.

I swapped mine out for a JPI 900. Much more information and more accurate also.

I was just looking at the Type certificate and noticed something. For the J model they list the arm for both the mechanical and electric fuel pump at +6.5 inches which can't be correct as the engine mounted is obviously much further forward than the electric one. For the F they list the mechanical at -3.8 which is reasonable, but have the electric at -1.5 which seems much too for forward to me. The +6.5 used on the J model seems to be correct for the electric pump. I guess we are all out of compliance and grounded now until Mooney corrects this and the FAA approves it.

Send Parker a PM. I think he is back in Texas now.

I know someone who just purchased a 2012 SR22 which was about twice the amount the original poster mentioned. He made offers on a couple before buying one and made the comment about how firm the prices were.

There are 2 versions of piano hinge, look at the old one and order the same. One is rolled from sheet and can be unrolled if pulled on hard enough. The other is extruded and will not unroll.

Fuel pressure or flow? It would be very difficult to share fuel pressure, but if I remember correctly there was something about sharing flow in the install manual.