WilliamR

I would not say doing work without owner authorization or not even trying to discuss annual inspection findings despite the owner asking is good communication. Ignoring e-mails after asking for an update every couple of weeks I would not consider good communication either, but that's just me. I've never had a shop mess so many things up in my 38 years in GA and 20+ years of aircraft ownership ($5,000+ worth). Got to the point they would fix one thing and break another and not without some push back. After a couple days of that I run out of patience. Happy to provide my e-mails with them (phone calls were rarely returned) on my encore conversion. It is eye opening. P.S. Do they own the zip tie company? Never seen so many in my life. Zip ties on intake tubes, zip ties on engine mounts, zip ties everywhere! Oh, and someone should buy them a label maker. Circuit breaker labels hand written on masking tape is weak. I'm fancy like that, though. Ha!

Here are two pics where the line comes from the separator side of the baffle. As I remembered, there is a nipple towards the bottom of the oil fill tube that the side line connects to. The nipple points outboard. Hope this helps. See the mediocre pics. The pic of the oil separator wasn't the best since the #2 alternator was in the way so I didn't include it, but it's exactly like the one pictured in this forum, tube out the bottom and another out the side towards the bottom. Got it on the owner. Anything for an Eagle driver...even the family model. Best, William

I would have thought it was in the engine IPC where the small "side" tube goes. Clearly, I'm wrong there. Going from memory on a TSIO-360-mb (and I think its the same on the -SB; have to check) the small "side" line goes to the oil fill tube which is right there on the other side of the baffle. Guess I need to reacquaint next time I go to the hangar on my -SB. I'll try to take a break tonight and snap a pic or two. Rags, I think we've met before. You fly for NJ, and flew F15's right? William

So very lucky from what I assume was very quick action to shut the engine down. I was acquainted with two pilots in separate similar incidents that perished. Both on takeoff. One was a partial blade separation and the other was a full blade separation. Neither plane traveled more than 0.5 miles before crashing. First was fatigue on a fixed pitch prop. The second was improper prop maintenance on a constant speed. William

I've witnessed that exact same rip in the exact same place on a Mooney. The one I saw was due to something caught in the bottom on the door (think headset cord). Door was then closed on the cord which flexed the door to slip tight to the skin and maybe a little under. There was no issue or tightness closing the door. Door was a bit hard to openand was then forced open slightly and "pop", skin is ripped. It was clearly apparent the door was jammed a little only when trying to reopen. The pilot was surprised the skin ripped so easily rather than either the fuselage skin or the door just giving a little. Lots of ways to fix it given the non-structural nature. The repaired rip mocks the owner every time they are entering the cabin. William

Ah, got it. Sorry for the confusion

Have you looked here? https://www.bendixking.com/en/support/downloads-and-manuals

I 2nd the 6. They are cheaper than the other 6 seaters mentioned here. A 6/300 would be my preference and they are about a 135kt-140kt plane (at least the ones I flew and instructed in). They have good range and carry a load. As a new pilot and prospective owner, I would encourage the use of a good broker unless you have a friend whose been around the block a few times and can help you navigate the process. It's a process. FYI, the most recent Flying or AOPA mag had an article for 1st time buyers. It's worth a read. A few axioms: 1. Buy your last plane first. 2. It's more expensive to upgrade a plane than it is to buy a plane with the upgrades. 3. Just because a maintenance shop says they are a "Service Center" does not mean they are the best or even good. Unfortunately, the only J that was looking for a partner in the Atlanta metro that I knew of was recently sold. Best of luck, William - KPDK

Don Smith at Cartersville, GA Airport (KVPC) did a good job for material paint "touch up" work on my plane. I had a good amount of paint touch up (among other things) needed after Maxwell got a hold of my plane and Smith did a very good job. I can't tell where they blended the old and new paint. Phoenix Air at VPC can also do the maintenance. I had them fix the many discrepancies I had after that Maxwell annual. Phoenix Air coordinated directly with Smith. Don Smith is the closest to Atlanta that I could think of that is willing to do smaller paint jobs that also has a decent maintenance shop on field. PDK and FTY are the only airports in Atlanta and the maintenance shops there I don't think do great material paint work (more than filling in a chip here and there). I might be more particular about these things than the average; or so say my friends. William

Fellow ATL pilot @Jetter2, I think the Cardinal numbers are a bit ambitious but not overly so for a TN'd version. Note, they do not have the same engine as a Mooney M20K. A 201 with TKS (I assume a non-FIKI version would be acceptable) would probably be your best bet for =<$200 and is definitely faster than a Cardinal (payload may be a different story if that matters). An older Ovation or a Bonanza like the one listed above would also be a greater contender. An SR20 won't go anywhere near as fast as you want/need and would be the slowest of the ones I mention. Yes, it's slower than a TN'd 177. It's about as fast as a NA'd 177...~135 knots. If you have no plans to fly above 10,000' then I would probably steer away from anything TN'd or turbo'ed. I totally get not being excited about oxygen (two decade turbo Mooney owner who regularly flies above 10,000' speaking from experience). Are you on any hangar wait lists? If not, and you want a hangar, you can't get on a list early enough. You probably know that already, though. William

Those issues from a Maxwell annual do not surprise me in the least. One of the many issues I corrected right after my annual/maintenance and TSIO360-sb engine installation with Maxwell was fuel flow setup and fuel line routing. Not sure why I even brought this up as there is a very clear bias on this board that Don Maxwell Aviation Services, Inc. can do no wrong. William

Without any insider info, $1,000 says Arcline is in the mix. Those guys have been on a good buying spree. Plus, I'm sure it adds some vertical integration to their diverse portfolio. Most Mooney owners wouldn't like that, though.

@dzeleski, thanks. Very familiar with those GFC 500 limitations and functionality. @201er gave me the impression that there was an interconnect between his AOA and FD when pressing the TOGA button given his answer. Interested in how that works and the equipment. William

Agreed. So, is there an interconnect of some type between your AOA (assuming you have one) and the flight director (again assuming you have one) when you hit your TOGA button? Thanks! William

If you reach out Starlink, you will find the Mini Roam plan for $50/mo will allow usage up to 280 mph for 50 GB. Above 280mph you will need the Aviation service plan. William

Have you had your maintainer check the wire from the PTT? What are their ideas besides changing the PTT switch? Sometimes, over time, those wires from the PTT can develop hairline cracks in the insulation which then grounds to the closest metal surface like a yoke shaft which acts like a PTT being pushed (hot mike). That's usually the next easiest place to have your avionics mechanic look. William

First, I think you buffing a wing tank leakage was a coincidence and not causational based on my experience. I probably buffed my plane over the last 20 years 5-7 times. Noticed no tank leakage after buffing. I also buffed other Mooneys over my almost 40 year flying career (I started detailing airplanes at 14 at my family's maintenance shop) with no notice of creating leaks. I think your plan of one or two more goes then a very light buffing if needed is spot on and you're clearly knowledgeable enough to know that protection after using #7 is needed. As you've discovered, old single stage paint is very soft compared to a modern paint job. Tread lightly as you've noted. Protection is the harder question. Do you go old school wax or do you ceramic or do you do ceramic wax which is closer to wax than a true ceramic coating? Obvi, you would not want to use a panel wipe if doing ceramic coating as that will undo most of the oil penetration you just did. I've seen some barn find Porsches do paint correction that just apply the ceramic over corrected paint (look at Ammo NYC, they've done some single stage paint work). Interested in before/after pics. William

Couple financing options in addition to Dorr. www.Banterraaircraft.com www.usaircraftfinance.com/ www.airfleetcapital.com www.gocurrency.com/air/ www.airloan.com You will find most rates are very close to one another (~50 bps). However, lenders differentiate themselves with prepayment penalties and fees (app fees, escrow, title, etc.). William

Gracias!

You mean like the app Patrick developed?

That's odd. About a month ago, I was looking for a part. I went to Lasar who didn't have it and they contacted the factory who said they don't have it and won't make it. I thought I read other stories of the same. In any case, what MSC is that? Clearly they have the magic touch. Always looking for a good contact. Thanks in advance for the help. William

Still remember flying one (yes, took controls from climb out to short final) from the right seat after mentioning I followed him in in my family's Cub. Wasn't even multi-rated at the time and there was a full load of passengers in the back. I don't think I had even graduated from high school by then. Extra $5 dollars for the right seat was totally worth it. Climbs at 90 mph, cruises at 90 mph, lands at 90 mph. The coolest was approach. Captain had me set set outboards to idle thrust and control speed and path with center engine. Twitchy it was not. William

Currently, I own an 86 M20K. Purchased with no changes from the factory other than a new engine and overhauled prop. Lots of plastic on the interior compared to a same year Beechcraft. Fit and finish inside of the cabin including placement of certain accessories/wiring is meh. Lots of screws in interior panels when clips would have been much better and looked cleaner. Some skin joints and fairings aren't very smooth. Also know of two people that bought new Mooneys about 10-15 years ago. They ran into things like an inspection panel not being painted, etc. The wrinkles in the leather interior panels and fit of some panels in the most recent Acclaim demonstrator a few years ago didn't show well either. Paint on one panel was slightly mis-matched, too. When I looked at the Cirrus G7 demonstrator, it was very clean. Everything fit; interior and exterior. Gear system with no back spring clutch isn't the most robust system out there. So....mid. Not trying to pick a fight. If people feel Mooneys are the pinnacle of quality and refinement, bully. Clearly, I see some value as I've been an owner for 20+ years and have been flying them for 35+. William

Oh, that's helpful. Was thinking about doing the same thing. Looks good. Thanks

Funny, many of my friends say how great Cirrus' are. They have flown Cirrus' unlike most haters. They also ask why I still own my antiquated, orphaned Mooney. I've personally wrenched on Cirrus' helping an IA friend. They are not complicated or tight to work on. Once Cirrus went to G3 or 4, handling (feel of side yoke) got better, based on my experience. Frankly, I've found Mooney quality as mid.