N201MKTurbo

I have had luck stopping the leak using locktite ( I forget which number I used). Clean the area around the leak with MEK and then Alcohol. Apply the locktite it will be drawn into the crack and it sets without air. In my case it eventually turned out to be a cracked case

DonMuncy, For whatever it is worth, I've crossed those mountains more times then I can count. It is almost always rough. If you cross on V64 it is a lot smoother then the pass or V16.

I have a Haskel gas booster I bought on EBAY for $300.00 that looked brand new (they are $6000 new) . With it I can fill my portable cylinders to 2000 pounds, well 2300 for one and 2100 for the other, with my supply cylinder as low as 400 PSI I own my own supply cylinder and don't trade it out. I take it to the gas place and have them fill it from the manifold. The same pipe as the Aviators breathing oxygen comes out of. The guys tell me that some times their cascade can get contanimated when a trade in bottle that is accidentally backfilled with another gas. If you trade in your bottle it is most likely filled from their cascade. I asked the foreman at the gas works what the difference was between Aviators breathing oxygen and any other oxygen that they have. He said that the only difference is that the ABO gets tested. I asked if it has ever failed the test. He said not in 35 years.

With a century servo, the electro magnetic clutch pulls a gear aganst another gear. If the mechanism is jammed or the gear teeth are really warn it will jump teeth whrn it tries to run. This kind of sounds like what you describe.

Just think about it as automatic external corrosion protection

In May I needed to fly from Phoenix to Portland, OR to do some work at the silicon works. I had been checking the weather for a week or so before the trip. My plane was IFR ready, but I wasn’t current. I had IFR charts for emergencies. The weather looked iffy for a direct VFR flight up there, but looked OK to fly up the eastern side of the cascades and then take a run down the Columbia River from the Dalls to Portland. I have done this a few times in the past with success. I have flown down the gorge with the tops of the canyon completely obscured. It is kind of weird to fly through a 60 mile long tunnel. Anyway I flew up to Yerington, NV for fuel and food and checked the weather. It was still reporting and forecasting 8000 foot ceilings P6SM with widely scattered rain showers throughout eastern Oregon. The radar confirmed that when I left Yerington. By the time I crossed into southern Oregon the weather had deteriorated quite a bit. The ceilings were solid overcast at about 2000 feet and the mixed rain/snow showers were wide spread. I Have done more of my fair share of scud running in the mountains, and I thought I would keep going to see if it cleared out further north. I was flying through north south running valleys with the sides completely obscured. The ceilings dropped down to about 1500 feet but there was still pretty good visibility outside of the showers. I finally got to a point about 30 miles north of the Lakeview VOR where I could not find good visibility anywhere in the valley, I could only see the ground straight down, about 3 miles of visibility. I knew it was time to throw in the towel. My GPS showed a small airport about 3 miles from me so I flew over to it, it was just a duster strip with no facilities and no town. I flew back to Lakeview OR and landed. The man at the airport was very nice and helped me out as much as he could. I checked the weather and it was bad, there was no way to get to Portland VFR and too much icing for an IFR flight, besides I wasn’t current. I asked about a rent a car and he said the Ford dealership in town will sometimes rent their used cars. He called an they said they would rent me a car. They came out and picked me up and took me into town (about 3 miles) and I got a fine 2001 Torus with 120000 miles on it for $60.00/day. I drove back to the airport to get my driving GPS out of the airplane and as I was leaving the airport I saw a Grumman landing. I thought to myself “That guy is crazier than me” I got to Portland about midnight after driving six hours through heavy rain and blizzard conditions. Two days later when I returned to the airport to get the plane and fly home, the airport was full of CAP people. When I went into the office to pay my parking I was told the Grumman was missing. The Sheriff called me the next day to ask me about the weather and if I might have any idea where they might look. I told him it was unlikely that he could have made past the higher terrain in the next valley to the east. He was going to Idaho. Unfortunately they found the wreckage two days later on the mountain I suggested. They had been looking there anyway and I didn’t change that. The NTSB called about a week later for a statement. I followed the search on line after I got back home and the outcome really tore me up. http://www.kboi2.com/news/local/Meridian-pilot-found-dead-in-Oregon-crash-155838375.html

If you can figure out how to make it stop let me know. I have maintained and operated 4 different Lycoming IO-360 engines for over 4000 hours all together. I'm not saying that it is impossible to make this engine leak free, but I've never seen it. If it is a through stud, you can clean your engine periodically, or spend 5 to 10 K to have the engine R&R ed, disassembled and reassembled.

Wow, they painted my M20F in 86 for $3500.00 They did a great job! Glad to hear they are still in business...

If there are tiny little hanger fairies that like to take things apart wandering around your airport, they may find a tiny little shear pin that might cost 10 cents to replace.

Bending the arm to make it shorter or longer will change the scale factor. Bending the arm to make it higher or lower will change the offset. I would suggest finding out how much fuel is in the tank when the float just lifts off the bottom of the tank and how much fuel is in the tank when the float is pinned to the top. When the tank is apart and empty adjust the float until it reads the correct readings when against the top and bottom of the tank.

I used to have a 67 M20F that had never been resealed, As of 2003 when I sold it it did not leak at all.

About 15 years ago I was working at the national laboratory (GUM) in Warsaw Poland. This 1930s era soviet building had the dry toilets you described, they were just weird. I wondered how they could afford the $800,000.00 piece of equipment I was installing but couldn’t afford an $100.00 toilet!

I have had a gauge fail as you stated. I would suggest removing the gauge and taking it to an instrument shop for bench check.

Every nut in the control system should have a cotter pin. If the hardware has been changed out to anything else your airplane is not airworthy. Nuts with cotter pins cannot come loose!

OK the spacing got a little off. And I messed up two characters. Haven't been an active HAM for 35 years. It was supposed to say Hi Bill KB7XE My old call sign. I screwed up the B and P Look at how much fun everybody had with it!

If it is working OK, you might consider just having it re-sealed instead of overhauled. The reseal will be about half the price and the shop will call you anyway if they see anything bad.

I have had both. I currently have the levers and wish I had the push pull controls. The levers eat up a lot of leg room. I think they make the cabin seem more cramped. I think I can adjust the push pull controls more accurately. You can install vernier push pull controls, which makes mixture setting much more accurate. besides, changing them out will be a giant PITA! Just my 2 cents...

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I don't get the question... If you advance the timing you will get more power, at the risk of detonation. Conversely, if you retard the timing your engine will be safer with less power. The only legal thing to do is set the timing to the data plate setting. If you want more power shove all the knobs to the firewall and burn more fuel. You will get the best performance if both mags have their internal timing set the same and correct and the engine timing as closely synced as possible.

Thermocouples fail when the wires come apart, an ohm meter will tell you that.

http://www.chaparralparts.com/servlet/the-597/553-dsh-673-probe-CHT-Piper/Detail http://www.skygeek.com/piper-553-673-probe.html http://www.krn.com/inventory_search.aspx?pn=553-673 http://www.chaparralparts.com/servlet/the-1161/880010-dsh-503-CHT-probe-Mooney/Detail http://www.trimcraftaviation.com/Trimcraft%20Website/Trimcraft%20Catalog/90911Catalog2005-1%20Separate%20Pages/67%20TEMPERATURE%20PROBES.pdf http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/rochcht.php it is a ROCHESTER 3080 38

Yes, you are right, it is not clear cut. It depends on who is interperating the rules. I think some shops are just trying to sell capacity tests and batteries. I flew every day for over 20 years as a commuter, and I would usually get 5 to 7 years out of a battery. For the last two years I've had a different job and only fly about 25 hours a year. I'll see if this shortens the life of the battery.

23.1353 (h)(1) In the event of a complete loss of the primary electrical power generating system, the battery must be capable of providing electrical power to those loads that are essential to continued safe flight and landing for: (i) At least 30 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude of 25,000 feet or less; and (ii) At least 60 minutes for airplanes that are certificated with a maximum altitude over 25,000 feet. (2) The time period includes the time to recognize the loss of generated power and to take appropriate load shedding action. The FAA has been requiring compliance with this lately, meaning that a capacity test is required at annual. If the battery won't pass the test then you need a new one.

I just use a sectional when flying over the mountains at night....

Definitely sounds like a probe. I have had a cylinder completely quit and had to fly about 20 miles on three cylinders. It runs a bit rough, but not plane destroying rough. It made enough power to fly OK. I had an exhaust valve stick open.