N201MKTurbo

If I recall, it is obvious when you put it together. The bevel is there to clear a tube or weld. You could always go find another Mooney and crawl under and look at it. I bet there is a picture on this site somewhere of it.

There are chain tightening stop screws and slots. The easiest way to adjust it is to completely remove the assembly from the plane. Trim the plane to the takeoff position. Remove the indicator cable and universal joint for the torque tube. from the topside remove all the tape from around the trim assembly and remove all the screws. remove the trim assembly. Mark or measure the position of the trim indicator nut because you have to adjust it to the same place before you put it back in. Clean the chain while you have it off. Adjust the chain tension and tighten the loose mounting screws. Put it all back together again and tape it back with aluminum tape.

My insurance guy told me if I’m flying someone else’s plane and land it gear up because I forgot to put the gear down they will cover the damage. If it is because of a maintenance issue they won’t cover it.

I had my agent check and I'm covered in twins. It might be that I have a bazillion hours? who knows.

The bungees are not magic either. If you just want to take them off and put them back on you don't need travel boards. If you take them off and replace parts and put them back on you just have to make sure you make them the same length as the ones you took off. Here is what I would do. Take the bungee off lay it on a piece of scrap lumber. Get a drill bit that fits the bolt holes in the rod ends. Clamp it to the board with a C clamp and drill a hole in the board with the bit through the two bolt holes. When you reassemble the new bungee, adjust the rod end so the two holes line up perfectly. This will make it the same length as the one you removed. As for the spring in the bungee, it isn't that critical. Count the threads showing when you take it apart and tighten it to the same number of threads. To test fly the bungee to tune it for max speed, fly the plane straight and level at cruise power and note the speed. Now trim it a bit (1/4 turn) nose down and manhandle the pitch back to level flight and note if the speed was higher or lower. Now do the same with nose up trim. Adjust the bungee so you see an equal speed decrease in both directions. This will give you the optimal elevator to stabilizer angle in cruise flight. This is best done on a very smooth day because the speed differences are slight. You will find that the factory settings are pretty close to the mark.

Was he planning on painting the other gear leg next year?

Hummm, that does seem odd.

There is a circular plastic connector for the gauge cluster. Take it apart and clean the pins and put it back together. If that doesn't fixit then take apart the big cannon plug on the firewall and clean it.

One way to check for perfection in aileron rigging is to make sure your tanks are equal and have another person in the passenger seat and do a stall series. If it is rigged right it will stall straight ahead.

If you are having uneven ailerons or a heavy wing, that is fixed by adjusting the flap up stops or bending the trailing edge(s) of the ailerons. If the ailerons are level in flight but the yokes are crooked you will have to make differential adjustments to the aileron links or possibly to the rod behind the panel. Once the plane flies level with even ailerons you can center the ball by bending the trailing edge of the rudder or the rudder trim tab if you have one. One thing the boards would be useful for is setting the aileron stops. They should have been set when the plane was made and they won't change the way the plane flies. Before you do any rigging, put the plane up on jacks and make sure the gear doors are not hanging down.

I couldn't agree more. Even if you replace a flight control, just put the new one on and if it needs adjusting just put it back where the old one was. If it is an aileron and the old one sat 1/8 inch above the flap, put the new one on so it sits 1/8 inch above the flap. I can see using them when the plane was assembled or if you replaced the whole tail, or had to replace a bunch of control rods after a gear up. Anyone who thinks all their woes are going to be cured with a set of travel boards is probably going to be disappointed. Unless someone in the past really screwed it up.

I've been flying a 310 lately. It is wonderful sitting there in those big chairs with your arm on the arm rest with a hand full of throttles! Lots of elbow room. The power on takeoff is awesome! A great performer! Then I pull up to the gas pump

There is a trim brake screw below the trim wheel. You can tighten it, if it is installed. It is there to stop the trim from being back driven by the tail.

It shouldn't take more than 3-4 hours or so to set the preloads on all three. All you have to do is set the two rods to be equal and set the nose preload with the limit switch. Then set the mains. They should take about 1/2 hour each once the plane is up on jacks and everything is opened up. The rod ends never really need replacing. Especially the ailerons. They are all in tension in flight so there can't be any slop in them. Unless they are so warn that they look like they are going to come apart, they are fine.

And it looks like airplanes have the right of way. Good luck with that. You have to contend with young men on fast vehicles trying to text the selfy they just took! I should know, I have one. Young man with fast vehicle that is.

I know, I have one too.

I would love to see more pictures of your turbo setup.

I have had my fuel injection servo ice up and almost make the engine quit. I never said I had carb ice. I said I had fuel injection servo ice.

085 OTL

I think you have a leaky tank.

Back in the 80s there was this nice lady Barbara. She was in her early 50s and decided to learn to fly. She had 4 engine failures that resulted in off airport landings before she got her private. This was in three different C150s. People were afraid to rent her an airplane! All the engines had hard failures and all agreed that she had nothing to do with it. We made her a trophy.

I could come out about 4:00 if you are still there. Im currently 200 ft from MZB

When I first started flying oil was $36 case. But fuel was $1.55 too. So it is all about the same.

Inside my hangar, the my Avidyne with the expensive antenna, perfectly mounted, will not get a GPS signal. The G5 without an external antenna will get a solid signal.

Get your #1 Phillips out and take a look.