jamesm

You may want consider fire sleaving the original hose did not have it installed. Also if I recall correctly one those or could mine particular airplane the adel clamps where something like -3 bolt #10 with 3/8” wrench head size but the hard to get to was another size smaller something like 11/32” wrench head size or could have been 5/16” wrench size. Much easier to see when engine not installed. I have done both way with engine installed and not. good luck with your project. james ‘67c

While I don't have GTN or GNS navigators installed. I do have GNC255 (Nav/Com) and GNC355(GPS/Com) and wired it up that I can source GPS or VOR/LOC/ILS using 2 G5's, it works ok. It's kind of PITA with having Old Eyes the nav source selector box on the G5 isn't that big and kind of subtle. I would be nice if Garmin would put fatter border around the Nav selector box for the selection Nav source on the G5 and also OBS Course will default to 360 when power is removed. So I only have one CDI indicator the G5. You probably already aware of this but for the people that might not be aware... I my case the GNC units are TX/RX(transmitting/Receiving) ARINC 429 and the purpose of the GAD29B is to Convert ARINC429 Signal into CAN ( Controller Area Network)signal for the G5's. If I recall correctly... there was a setting I don't recall which one but it wasn't so intuitive but I matched the installation manual it has worked great. GNC units Don't speak CAN whereas the G5's speaks CAN and RS232 signal formats. GNC navigator's speak RS232 (many different RS232 formats but you can only have one RS232 Format per port no format repeats across the other 2 ports. GNC355 has 3 ports and are commonly daisy chained for various equipment that needs GPS position (Engine monitors,LHS landing Height System, ELT, etc), sudo ARINC429 (it doesn't use the ARINC labels as far I can't tell it uses RS232 GPS position), Resolver, Syncro signals( a whole bunch of wires need think old school 70's CDI's and non digital Auto pilots) , composite signals, Ethernet not sure of the protocol, HSB bus not sure of the protocol, 1PPS I/O I think it's for precision timing. you could in the case of the GNC navigator have it talk to G5 via RS232 and that worked until I added the GNC355 ( my 2nd GNC navigator) with no panel space to spare for a 2nd CDI so I elected GAD29B which allows me to switch between two different nav sources. Since I wasn't allowed install or hook up the GFC500 ... I m not too sure what all signals besides CAN is being used for the GFC500 and GSA28 Servos. GAD13 OAT (outside Air Temperature probe which I understand there couple different option on the probe which get converted to CAN used by G5 system. GAD29B (there are few different variants of the GAD 29) which converts ARINC429 and Resolver, Syncro signals in some case where applicable to CAN so the G5 understands the signals being transmitted and received. getting the correct RS232 format can be tricky when connecting to a non Garmin products such as Engine monitors, ELT LHS, etc etc. for reference only and going my sketchy memory and limited understanding. Hope this helps James '67C

Do it all the time no flight stream 510 needed. You may need check your port setup on your GNC355. If I can't ever find where I save pictures of my configuration of my GNC355 or next time I am at the airplane with spare time on my hands remember to take pictures. I will posted them. James

Awe this is what happens the IRS meets ICAO meets politicians in destroying a perfect good flight plan form. Creating a monstrosity new form. the good form was simple and has been around for years easy and straightforward. It did needed some minor modifications to good old flight plan form. I am pretty sure that LORAN , ADF, life raft are rarely used in 99% of GA in the US. I am pretty sure they aren’t making a comeback anytime soon. I Could be wrong though. Why they were at destroying good format why throw in AN beacon navigation and if you 8 track tape players for inflight entertainment system.

the trick is if you put a rubber o-ring on bolt going through the spring portion that attaches to the firewall that last a long time. Or others have used a portion of side wall from a tire replacing the spring entirely but I believe that attaches differently to the tail pipe if I remember correctly. Hope this helps, James '67M20C

The trick is that if you buy 2 EGT probes then the replacement EGT probe wont burnt out, a Murphy's law sort of a thing. When I buy one EGT temp probe it almost always inevitably goes bad a short time after the replacing EGT probe installed goes out.

An old Mooney Brochure mooney_brochure.pdf

I get the scepticism. I had put the SureFly installed and had the Right Magneto overhauled at the same time. But to ensure that mag was overhauled was tested on the test bench before flying it. The SureFly ignition is same people who brought us Plane Power alternators and Skytec starters so they a great reputation. I had one problem with the Skytec starter about 5 years ago the housing started become lose after over 18 years of use. initial installation of the SureFly of finding gear orientation during installation. I have no to little problem with SureFly/Plane Power/SkyTec products. The products design back in the 1940's have problems too. I guess pick your problems and try to minimize bad results. Just my experience. James '67C

Yep been there, I had ground checked throttle cable mounting it checked fine, but slipped on me while flying . . . the stupid AN742 clamp . the ol' AN742 tried to kill me trick .. Initially I thought my flying skills just sucked since I had flown in 3 or 4 months this was just after 9/11/2001. after the 2nd or 3rd time around the pattern, I realized that my throttle was stuck at about ~1500 RPM still producing partial power. Then It occurred to me back WWII days that the V1 rocket didn't have very sophisticated fuel control it was just toggling/Pulsing fuel flow on and off. So I used the mixture pulled it out then if I need a little power push it back in. I didn't think it would be wise turn off the Mags there a chance that they might not come on and I wasn't really too sure what the problem was. I started noticing that when I saw in other people Mooney's pictures of the engine compartments, they were taking safety wire criss-cross around the AN742 clamp to prevent it from slipping. Because of this event... I have since change my maintenance practices by having another and more experienced A&P check my work when it comes to flight controls, engine controls and things that can kill me. My OPP part has yet to slip. It's is designed that if I had to I could go back to AN742 if had to. It won't happen though as long as I own the plane. additional note: I have change to McFarlane/Mooney/Lasar throttle cable about 2 year ago. No mods necessary going from old to new cable housing. No complains so far. James '67C

elastic banded and draw strings clothing are your friend

In the '67C model which had a big fat rheostat. i Installed Dual Max Dim Dimmer Controller P/N 9100-001-D based upon the schematics posted about looks a bit rewiring would be involved. But with these old planes with multiple owners. sometimes it's hard to tell what is original and what is added. In my case the supposed certified installers left a lot extra wires and rework for me to take care of. Good luck in finding your replacement dimmer. James '67C

Do these new avionics make me look fat ? It does make me curious to know how accurate the scales were the the aircraft was when being weighed or the ones used now. It has made me wonder in my case a Narco Mark12 with a tubed type power supply ~14 lbs removed and a KX155 goes in a '67C some how it comes out heavier? Hopefully it's miscalculation over the years.

'67 C is a carbureted model No Ram air at least not on the one I fly.

correct me if I am wrong ... I thought there was an AC(advisory circular) for electrical components that did this. but the AC number escapes me.

Here is a print of the electrical schematic for a 1967 M20C. I believe this is a traced copy from Mooney Parts Catalog. <for reference only> Hope this helps, James '67C

Not sure what changed, or why it was changed, between 1970 and 1967 'C' models per my 'Mark 21 MODEL M20C 1967 Owners Manual' MOONEY AIRCRAFT, INC. it has no revision markings. Not sure how big of a factor 2" of Manifold pressure makes nor am I sure of the tolerances.

Not the best picture .... attached is how it is installed in my '67 M20C. If memory serves me correctly.... The book says you should get gear warning at 10" MAP Manifold pressure. Hope this helps, James

Does the sequence matter when pulling the CB for the GFC500 autopilot? i.e. If you were to just pull the Auto pilot CB without using the A/P disconnect switch as oppose to holding the A/P Disconnect switch then pull the Autopilot breaker ( As I recall this is what the Pilot's Guide says)? Just curious. James '67C

I have installed a LHS in '67C the thing that I had not check was the gear warning busy work schedule and airport was busy and didn't want to stress out the control tower crew. I have been sloooowly working on my instrument rating and few weeks back did miss approach and on que "Check Gear" aural warning was sounded. I have 2 G5's not the G3X displays. It's weird the LHS has 70ft call out seems strange to me. James '67C

I have been working on my instrument rating and have been using PMA8000BT (Audio panel) GNC255(NAV/COM) GNC355 (GPS/COM) and 2 G5's and GFC500 AP works ok. It took me several years of upgrades and saving to get here. I would like bigger screen (my old eyes suck) but really can't justify it. James '67C

I know this topic has been beat to death the "Proper way" to jack Mooney..... I was talking to a guy who just did an annual on mid 70's Mooney. I think it was a '74 but don't recall which model. He mention to me that it had jack point off the engine mount. I guess I had always thought that later Year Mooney's and/or the 6 Cylinder models had put a Jacking point on engine mount. Am I missing something or is there Mooney Kit or 337 or SB or SI or AD or??? that would allow mod for a '67C ? Thanks, James '67C

I know this gets negative/ null response... I would check Antenna ground make sure that the antenna ground and antenna bonding good and proper. Another thing I might try is that if the antenna are close if you have short piece coax swap antenna. pretty all that I got. hope this helps. James '67C

sure would have been nice if Garmin had the installer replace the original bell crank with one with an extra horn for the autopilot to use push-rod type control rather than cable.

On my '67C it was located approximately 4 inches off the center of cowl deck (over radios stack) facing aft. all components on mine were inside the cabin. Hope this helps. James '67C