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testwest

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Everything posted by testwest

  1. Like this: http://tinypic.com/r/os6746/9
  2. Was that fuse the issue? Can't leave us hanging! (and I need to Get the Knack on itunes soon)
  3. Mooney POH 1220 G, here ya go! BTW there is at least one totally bogus data point in the cruise data (8000' Best Econ 2600 rpm 15.2"....7.6 gph?) M20J_1220G.pdf
  4. Glad to be back. Got pulled into KC-46 land, we are kinda busy!! Flightaware BOE462 or 464, I did a lot of those. Back to topic, after letting the Goof Off soften the old Pliobond, I use a plastic scraper or plastic mold knife to get the stuff off. Wipe with a little fresh Goof Off on a rag, then when the surface is pristine, a little Metal Prep for a slight acid etch, and then, Dupli-Color self etching green metal primer (rattle can, from Napa Auto Parts and others. Accept no substitute on this.) It is a pretty decent drab green, and it grabs aluminum prepped like this like there is no tomorrow. When I can't get or don't want to fuss with PPG BMS 10-11....
  5. Hi everyone, yep I am still here. For cleaning old adhesive off, I found that Goof Off (from the big box home improvement stores) works even better than MEK and does not smell as bad. It really zaps old Pliobond. Give it a shot (ha!).
  6. I will check and see if I have a 10A Klixon still left over. It might be your lucky day Thor!
  7. OK, officially asked for a Mooney M20J for Trutrak.
  8. Thanks so much for posting the problem, the solution and the picture. That can really help someone else later, even to the extent of saving a life!
  9. +1 for MGS epoxy. Jetdriven has it right. Probably too late, but I found the remover product "Goof Off" (available at the big box home improvement stores) to be the best thing to remove old rubber cement/pliobond. Not as smelly as MEK and seems to works a little faster.
  10. Yes, we do have the Lopresti cowling on ours. We have some pictures in the gallery as well. The groundspeed on Flightaware is interesting, but the true airspeed is more relevant. We also have low profile main gear doors, the Hartzell blended airfoil prop, and have no antennas on the fuselage forward of the baggage compartment, and more. It was a boatload of work, but the airplane is now a ~163ish TAS airplane at reasonable cruise, instead of the ~155ish TAS airplane that most 201s are, on the same fuel flow. Jetdriven on this forum has a 201 that have really been loved on lately, but without the Lopresti cowl. He and wife Rebecca will be in the Airventure cup race Sunday, should be a hoot to see their performance. Go Jet!
  11. So the labor for this is maybe 30-40 hours. Hope this helps!
  12. Hi everyone Wanted to get the word out on this, Lopresti Aviation has one available STC'ed cowl kit for the M20J (also E and F, if the oil cooler is relocated to be similar to the J) for 25% off list, or $12,000. It was manufactured for a customer who, unfortunately, had a mishap with his airplane before he could take delivery of the upgrade kit. So Curt (Lopresti) has this STC kit on a special price. The kit is very extensive and includes new low profile nose gear doors and an all new induction box, with a ram air system that actually works very well (unlike the stock 201 ram air). We can easily get about an inch of manifold pressure from the ram recovery at WOT, 8000' and 2500 rpm on the one we installed on 201JX. And the cowl itself looks pretty cool and is less drag. When we did this upgrade we were able to offset a lot of the cost by selling our old cowl and nose gear doors, they went pretty quickly! Here is a web link for a video on the cowl: http://www.loprestiaviation.com/#!lopresti-super-201-cowl/cj7h And if you are interested, just shoot an email to Curt Lopresti directly at curt@loprestiaviation.com or call 772-562-4757.
  13. I have the right side, but the brass chassis needs a bit of a solder repair to fix the screw receptacle for the strobe lens fixture. It will be inside the unit, not visible. Power supply is sold, though.
  14. SOLD!! Here is a 14 or 28v power supply for a Whelen 3-light system, it is model HDACF, manufactured 3-2011 and only used 100 hours or so. This is the later "Comet Flash" style supply. $249 OBO, this is a little more than half of what they go for new. USPS Priority shipping included at this price!
  15. Sold , was: Here is the next item, it is a Whelen A650-PR wing position light (red cover) and strobe. 28V position light bulb (Whelen p/n W1290-28), but you could change the position light bulb assembly to a 12V (W1290-14, ~$39 new) if needed for a 12V airplane. These are $314 new, a salvage yard will charge you $200, how about the first $149 $99 takes it, plus shipping. USPS Priority can get it there for just under $14. Or, will part out, also have a left A650 with good parts.
  16. OK guys, up for sale ::SOLD:: s a Whelen A500 tail light/strobe with an included 28V incandescent position light bulb (Whelen p/n A510-28) , if you have a 12V airplane you could put in a 12v tail light bulb (p/n A510-12, they are ~$32) if needed. Of course the strobe tube takes the high voltage flash from your power supply so they work with either 12V or 28V systems. These are normally $221 new and salvage yards will charge you $125 or so, how about $99 OBO, plus shipping. These can go via USPS Priority medium flat rate box for $13.95 anywhere in the US.
  17. Thanks, carusoam! Have not started the PhD yet, though. Kinda busy at work!!!
  18. Found it in the Operator's Manual, Textron Lycoming Aircraft Engines, series O-360, IO-360 [etc], p/n 60297-12. Page 3-37, Figure 3-21. "Sea Level and Altitude Performance IO-360-A, C [etc] series: Key takeaways for this engine...WOT is permissible 2400 rpm and above. 2300/28" ok, and so is 2200/27". In my Aerostar I run 2200/26" (turbo normalized) on a Lyc IO-540-S1A5, which is basically 1.5 M20J engines, same compression ratio. For Alex (Raptor05121) do what you need to get the complex endorsement, then find the version of the chart above applicable to your engine, and run it. Next BFR, if your CFI questions your practices, win a few beers (or a comp'ed checkride) using facts and data. Happy Mooneying!
  19. OK, guys, lots of good information here, and some not so good, I am afraid. If you are in this discussion, please go find the threads on Vz that I initiated, and download and read the thesis, here: http://www.openclip.net/Benchmark/IntroducingVz.pdf A full power Target EGT climb at a speed about 1.3 times your published Vy will give the best combination of time to altitude and velocity-made-good to top of climb (which is a lateral down path point, not an altitude), engine performance and cooling, and fuel used to get there. If you want, you can reduce the RPM (only) a little bit to reduce noise in the cabin. A small reduction goes a long way. Even going back to 2650 from 2700 can make a pretty big difference in perceived sound. There is no need to adjust parameters other than target EGT for gross weight, winds, density altitude or anything else. If your airplane engine runs too hot at this condition, it is well outside its design spec for engine cooling, and repairs/adjustments need to be made to the engine full power fuel flow, baffling, cowl flap rigging, or a combination of these. Instructors who still insist on teaching "square" engine management are only perpetuating myths. Even the FAA has specifically addressed this poor practice in the Airplane Flying Handbook, FAA-H-8083-3A, Chapter 11, downloadable here: https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/airplane_handbook/media/faa-h-8083-3a-5of7.pdf I will go so far as to post the relevant paragraph and page number via a screen shot: I will see if I can dig up the power chart from the Lycoming O-360 and IO-360 series airplanes. By the way, most POHs are awful. See these posts, they are gems! http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/186015-1.html http://www.avweb.com/news/pelican/186216-1.html
  20. Thanks for looking, it has been sold. Sorry about that!
  21. And now we have the answer to the next line of rocker switches: Carlingtech Contura V. Of course we started with Klixon 20TC, then the E-T-A 41-10-P10, now these. Of course the V is not a switch-breaker, so they had to put in circuit protection in differently.
  22. Also still available from our 1977 M20J is this 5 amp rated NAV LITE rocker switch/circuit breaker, Klixon (Sensata) part number 20TC2-BG-5, Mooney part number 930023-001. $75, including shipping.
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