testwest

Joe, we have a 77 M20J as shown in our sig below. Our prop stops at 6-12 like the picture, and it is very smooth. One item to check that has not been mentioned is the condition of your crankshaft counterweights. If they have been detuned, it could cause the issues you are seeing. John Schwaner's Sky Ranch Engineering Manual has a marvelous write up on this and referrals to Lycoming service instructions to troubleshoot the problem. Here is a link to a page excerpt from this fine book regarding detuned counterweights: https://books.google.com/books?id=JEXnFqVTqJQC&pg=PA426&lpg=PA426&dq=crankshaft+counterweight+detuning&source=bl&ots=dRBcJYb83H&sig=iKac0xO4uIpTvxjyhZV2No8-vno&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CEMQ6AEwBGoVChMIuPz0u5rNyAIVCMxjCh26hQiX#v=onepage&q=crankshaft counterweight detuning&f=false It is entirely possible that the counterweights could be detuned and still show no symptoms on the previous prop, but be apparent with the new prop due to different resonance characteristics of the new rotating mass, in both magnitude and phase angle. Attached is a copy of Lycoming SI 1012G. Everything you ever wanted to know about counterweights. Good luck! And please let us know what you find. Counterweights and Rollers on Engine Models.pdf

Byron is quite right about the roll axis. The Mooney yoke full travel is fairly small in terms of angular displacement for full aileron travel. Friction in any non-reversible control system is typically a bad thing. Definitely pay attention to periodic maintenance actions with regard to control system lubrication. There are two other things to look for, free play and breakout force. The solid, connected feel very nicely described above is a result of low free play and medium breakout forces. Airplanes with cable control systems (as opposed to pushrods like we have) tend to have some freeplay in the system due to cable stretch and tensioning.

This is probably a good deal, I made a G-243 last for 8 years using a BatteryMinder on it for the last 5.

I replaced these with a piece of of the same hose material, MIL-H-6000 I think. It was fast, easy and relatively cheap.

Ok thanks Podair! I am suffering from CRS these days....

Oops, sorry about that, I am on a trip and have frankly forgotten if I sold it! I think it is still available. Will update the status Saturday....

PM, sent! Should be able to ship today....

I truly appreciate the effort you expended, it was really helpful. This is what Mooneyspace is about.

So, they were at Clinton-Sherman airport in Burns Flat, OK. 13,500 of runway. Length was not the issue...they ran off the side of the runway, fairly slowly. Pretty neat to closely examine the takeoff footage. The airplane looks remarkably stable and controllable.

Actually the drive shafts run on either side of the cockpit and come together in a gearbox arrangement in the nose. So they are armrests. The Bugatti 100P website has many technical papers on the design and the replica's implementation. They are a good read. 2 Hayabusa engines in the mid fuselage. It is a screamer, literally.

and replied!

And replied!

Bump, to get this back to the top.

This is an update to the previous ad, I have a NEW Klixon 10 amp rocker switch, this one has a black cover with the STROBE LITE nomenclature, but there are a number of 10 amp rocker switch/breakers in Mooneys and the covers can be interchanged, if you have a 10 amp Klixon (Sensata) switch that has flaky action or is inop, this is for you. These are $220 through an MSC. If you try to buy the switch body itself from Peerless, it will set you back $218.17 from them. See here: http://www.peerlesselectronics.com/store/products/20TC2%252dAA%252d10.html I am selling this for only $99 including USPS priority shipping. Standing by for your PM!

OK, up for sale is a white E-T-A style switch cover for strobe lights, nomenclature is 'STROBE LITE'. This is for the cover only, if your E-T-A switch is in good shape but the cover is worn this is for you! ONLY $15 plus postage (nominally $5.25 in the U.S). Click photo for a larger view. Thanks!

That is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a million!! My curiosity was about the connector to the bar, the little bent tabs don't provide a lot of contact area...and an IC landing light has a pretty high inrush current at first make. Apparently it is ok..

I think so! Any picture would help. Thanks a lot!

Greeting Modern Mooniacs I need a favor from someone. We are putting the E-T-A switches for nav lites, strobes, boost pump etc in our 1977 M20J. The back of these switches is different than the original Klixon (Sensata) switches. I need to see how they install the aux bus bar on the row of E-T-A switches... SO if anyone with a 1984ish or newer M20 could take a picture under their panel of this bus bar or wiring arrangement and post it, that would be very much appreciated. Think of it as a Mooney upskirt shot. "Good night, everybody!!" - Y. Warner (Marauder is gonna laugh at that, but I will now burn for eternity ). Thanks.

Actually no STC is required. Closing the vent hole is a minor repair, and installation of the Mooney part numbers for the dorsal vent conforms to the type design as it was improved by serial number. We got the dorsal vent fairing from Mooney. They may still have those, or maybe LASAR does.

For those of you who want to put the later type vent system on your earlier J/K, there is a hard-to-find part on ebay, the vent valve. See here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aircraft-Mooney-M20J-Fresh-Air-Vent-Rear-Louver-Assembly-/121236215327?hash=item1c3a3dd61f&vxp=mtr

No, it is not. That switch on Ebay is an E-T-A landing light switch, Mooney went to that style in the 1982-83 time frame. The original search is for a G model, so the switch is a Klixon (Sensata) style.

That is great, I salute you! Any pictures of the work in progress you want to share?

Unless you are saying substitute the ETA with a Klixon, that is doable but the ETAs look better. The ETAs are also out of production, unless Mooney managed to talk the Germans into restarting the line. The ETA base part number is 41-10-P10 by the way.

Unfortunately the ETAs are just as expensive, and the back is different, so they won't just screw into the AUX bus bar behind the panel.