cliffy

Lets start at the beginning- When you press both brakes are they both hard and near the top of the pedal push? Does either one of them slowly bleed down as you keep pressure on? Is either one of them soft and spongy? The reservoir is not a "closed" system. It has air at the top and with the can on the ground fluid will drain back out of the line bringing air with it. Have the wheel cylinders ever been opened, cleaned and new orings installed? How old are your flexible brake hoses at the wheels? How old are your brake pads? What condition is your brake disc in? Is it too thin from wear? When you bleed the brakes do you have any air coming out with the fluid? All these have a bearing on how well the brakes work. More information is needed to help you.

64' M20 D/C WOT, 2500 RPM, 50 ROP, 9500 MSL 137-138 KTS TAS 8.5 GPH, @18MPG. 3 blade prop. Checked it many times both with wiz wheel and GPS On a good day maybe 140 KTS on a bad day 135 KTS. No mods.

Of course, slobber, slobber.

Pictures Pictures

AZOutlaw- After reading this thread you still feel its OK AND legal to install these lights? You probably won't be sent to jail but there is no way that they can be construed as being legal to install when even the guy who makes them says they are not legal on certified airplanes. Frankly I'd really like to use them but considering their legal status I won't.

Some people can't think of doing anything else but fly and others throw it away and become lawyers. You pays your money and you takes your choice.

I have no battery or avionics in the tailcone but the rear bulkhead is not sealed too well so like I said- when I redo the interior this will be a priority.

Now that's cool! Back about 40 years we used to fly in there in a DC-3 bringing fishermen in to fish the lake for Cutthroat trout. Some were over 10 pounds and big stringers came in through the hotel/ restaurant front door. There was also a "business" in town called 'The Green Front" where "ladies of the evening" plied their trade" !

Hmmm, how about a round carb inlet like the top ones that is smooth and faired into the lower middle cowl. Might look better than the square box. Might be attached to the same mounting holes used now. Someone a long time ago put a sheet metal dam around the bottom and two sides of the square box to capture the slipping air loss trying to gain extra MP. Don't know if it worked but I did see the pictures.

It's going to boil down to which FAA Inspector sees it and how you can justify it with no official approval, if he asks. Common sense or reason has no bearing on "Official approval". I know of one Inspector that was on a rampage about chromed spinners. NOT polished but chromed. He always asked to see the approved process for a spinner knowing full well there wasn't one. The spinners looked good but weren't legal. Bye Bye they went. Anything you that changes any part from original has to have some approval associated with it. Ho will it be signed off in the log book because it will have to be signed off? It's maintenance. The factories that are doing it have some kind of approval. Now cleaning with 1000 grit paper can in no way be objected to, I'd fight that one any time.

Don't know about differences but I have a large leak forward from the tail cone. Nice in the summer but cold in the winter. It will go away when I redo the interior here shortly but until then this works!

I guess we're missing the point here. This is a job for a young single who WANTS to go into aviation. Right now if you want to make the big bucks you gotta start somewhere. If you have 250 hrs you can't even get on at a 135 because the Feds make it 500 hrs min. You want to go 121? 1500 hrs by the Feds. Sure you can tow banners or drop people with chutes or maybe even Alaska but this one bypasses those. Most will never make it to $150K/yr in this flying business. You have to love it to stay on. Just like professional sports, very few make it to the top. I know the people who are offering and they are honest people but they know the market also. They are business people but willing to give someone a chance. I wish something like this was available 45 yrs ago when I was starting out. It wasn't! The last of the "Golden Careers" in airline flying died 20 years ago. I know, I was there. But if you have to fly with an airline to feel alive, than you have to start somewhere.

Got asked today if I knew anyone who wanted a flying job. Low time Commercial OK. Will fly Cirrus and Twin Comanche on Pt 91 until you get 500 hrs then transition into the 135 ops on the Cirrus. Don't know the pay but you will live in Page AZ (KPGA). Good for time building for a Comm/Inst/Multi.

Here's a picture of the foam plug Finally got to the airport

I thought foam floated! Needed ping pong balls in the wings :-) And a riggers knife to cut the shrouds.

Still looks like an interesting project. Two thoughts. Could a NACA duct be used bottom center for the carb inlet with the filter horizontal just below the carb? Secondly, I've always felt that with the oil cooler inlet below the engine deck that when the cowl flaps are closed to limit airflow the air pressure in the lower cowl would rise somewhat due to the limited outflow. If that happens then the oil cooler differential pressure across the cooler would lessen and it would have less flow for oil cooling. Now with optimized inlets ?? Might be a different story. Just thinking.

C-FRJI Can you use non-approved parts in Canada on certified airplanes? We can't down here in the lower 48. They even say on their literature that the kit is not FAA approved. Just curious, did your Aircraft Technician put them on and sign off on the log books?

jetdriven- interesting thought As to parts manual listing I've never really changed anything just because it was in the parts manual as most parts have a specific aircraft serial number range for applicability. If the s/n applicability doesn't match the actual a/c s/n I would think the Feds would take issue. Have you ever had a Feds wave his magic wand and directly approve any of your parts manual changes? Not saying it can't be done (I have to check some more) just asking. High CHT- I've never seen 400 CHT on my C let alone 500. My doghouse works fine. 500 in my book is WAY too high. When was the CHT gauge last calibrated? That might make a big difference as would all the connections to the CHT temp lead. The temp probe and lead would also be checked on a calibration bench check, not just the gauge

I think someone wrote in a while back that they picked up 10 kts when they changed yokes! :-)

Check Boeing Winds forecast. I know high altitude winds are always from the west so GS will be way down. https://www.windyty.com/?surface,wind,now,46.012,-70.137,3 Here's a good view of world wide winds

Congrats on your purchase and I hope the PB goes well. Biggest issue for new Mooney guys in speed control on landing. Remember this please- If you bounce a landing GO AROUND. You will get the prop on the 3rd touch down Most bounced landing come from too much speed. With careful planing and a lot of luck you'll do fine on your trip if you take your time and pick your weather. Sounds like you don't have "get homeitis" which is good.

mooneybuilder- Thanks for attending and the contribution to our forum. Brakes- many times very neglected. Found mine to be nothing but red jelly inside the wheel cylinders when I first opened them after purchase. Brake hoses were 20+ years old then. They crackled when bent. Rotors too thin. Nose steering linkage- Have found several of them WAY too loose with wear. Lift the nose wheel off the ground and try turning it. If it moves a lot its worn. Fuel caps- another neglected area. Replace orings (2 each) every year(cheap), relube and check adjustment to keep out water. Mooneys have gone down because of water in fuel from oring leakage. Just a caution- If you have one with electric gear and it has ever had a gear collapse with bent rods make sure the link rods are the correct ones for your airplane (several different lengths available) and I found one with an incorrect motor ( no way to "legally" install it).

Carpet or padding on the nose gear tunnel or your J bar boot at the bottom could he bunching up From there you might have too tight uploads. I'm going to presume that the gear has been properly lubed. You might also look at the big springs in the wings. I had one with popped rivits on my prebuy years ago on my C. Do not check over center preload without the proper tools, period.

Being as how it will affect the cooling of the engine it will be considered a major alteration. It will at the very least require some kind of approved data to do the change or a full fly off to show compatible cooling efficiency with a field approval. There may be some kind of STC available for the swap if you dig. If you can find someone who has done it a received a field approval you can copy it exactly and apply for your own FA BUT it will depend on who and what FAA office you work with. My dog house cools fine after a little clean up work. Why do you want to change it out?

Really do some soul searching about going from a new PPL to a 180 kts go fast airplane. The 2 are not really compatible. Likewise factor in a little weather and NO scud running and you might be rethinking your plans. 140 kts vs 160 kts is only 28 mins. The price of entry for 180 kts goes way up compared to 140/160 kts.