cliffy

If the price of something is too good to be true it probably is too good to be true! Find out the S/N and who gave it the 810 and call them to verify the unit is indeed not stolen.

From the AOPA here is all you'll even need t know about "Preventive Maintenance" and what the Private Pilot/Owner (both inclusive) can do for maintenance. http://www.aopa.org/Pilot-Resources/PIC-archive/Aircraft-Ownership/Preventive-Maintenance Hope it helps

Well I have flown the twinkie on one at a DA of 7000' and climbed out all though not too fast 150 FPM. If you're not trained and current for an airplane don't fly it. One can always get the 200 HP conversion Twinkie but not at 14 GPH which I can and do get on every flight at 165 to 170 kts TAS. The Comanche gear is very good IF the 1000 hr AD has been done correctly. Not many are. All one has to do is look at the nose gear down lock sprigs to see how good the gear is. If they are original and rusty RUN AWAY from it. It hasn't been cared for properly.

Don't just try and drill out the screws unless you are real good at it. You can buy a reverse cut drill bit to unscrew those stripped heads. I'm willing to bet some won't come out and you'll need to replace the nut plates also after drilling off the screw head. Looks like the light bulb is replaced from behind the spar. .

ICE! That's why I live in Arizona We don't need no stinkin ice!

When is the AVWEB article?

Tide and a window brush and no pressure washer. Keep it wet all the time. Dry right after by flying around the pattern:-) Then I use Mothers car wax. Goes on easy and comes off easier. Been doing for decades. Haven't hurt a plane yet.

The Twin Comanche makes those numbers now- 170 kts holds 7000 or way better on one (I've held 9500 but not at gross) can carry 4 easily and it does it at 14 GPH in cruise all the time. The 160 Lycs are bullet proof, 16 and 17,000 ft are very usable altitudes even non turbo. The only reason they stopped making them was that the factory got flooded and they scrapped all the tooling and half made planes. Like I said, it's the best personal twin out there right now.

OK

Are there any dings in the aft outboard tips of the elevators? Would you have the part number for me to compare to the ones I need? If they fit maybe we can make a deal good for both of us.

Had a local 206 (government plane and shop) get a new engine (factory overhaul) and had starting problems for 100 hrs. Tried everything including new engine fuel system to no avail. Turned out the "new" Slick mags were bad from day one. Internal timing was way off. Who would have thought.

daver328 Just remember that unless you go 18,000 and above you don't need an ES xpondr. It won't give you Wx In, you'll still need a UAT for that or other secondary "IN" system. There is no advantage for the "OUT" side of the equation to go ES. You will still need a WAAS onboard to couple with the ES.

Yes I know it's old and not supported but there has to be one shop out there that works on them OR maybe I could find a non-working unit and scavenge what I need from it. Mine is stuck in the night mode for screen brightness. I have the repair manual and I am conversant with electronics. Swapping boards (which is all they ever did) is not an issue. Anyone with any ideas? Thanks

In deference to what I've been saying, I just may wait it out for a couple of years to see what comes to market. I'm able to do my own installs so that takes a big factor out of the issue. Right now the market is too knew for things to be well established as far as hardware goes and many if not most of the products are not too compatible across the board, especially for legacy airplanes. Even for those with the glass panels things are clouded to say the least (Garmin? R U listening?) . And, like some here, I'm not a fan of proprietary architecture in electronics like Garmin uses. It's a winner for them financially as they are the gorilla in the room but in the end we all lose as a group. I do hope King gets there act together and does a wide application UAT for a reasonable cost (like their Transponder). That would sell big time because I feel UATs are the way to go for legacy a/c. If a portable can be built for less than $1500 with WAAS then there is no reason other than greed that a bolt in couldn't be built for the same price point. A UAT with/or without (both) WAAS for Out and WIfi for In on an android or iPad for $2000 or less would capture the market.

Mooney just might need a new marketing venue. They've been in the SE market forever, ventured a twin way back when but dropped it. Wouldn't be too hard to go to 2 motors like Piper did with the Twin Comanche. Two 160 hp Lycs with a good payload near or at the performance level of the TC and it would sell. You don't need bigger motors and heavier airplanes. The mission would be 80% 1 or 2 people and near a 1000 miles at 175-185 kts. Could use the same wing with mods, same long fuselage but maybe bigger tail for Vmc work. Might add turbos later. Still good for 17,000' without turbos. I predict it would sell big time.

If the worn rod end is the one that unscrews from the push rod Yes, it's unscrewed and readjusted. If it is on the end that is roll pinned in it's a different story. As for allowable play, they don't come new with any play so I figure if I see play in one its time to replace it. JMO

I think you're jumping the gun here. You have several things to check before you determine it is the mag. How old are your plugs? Have you religieusly cleaned and gapped them every 100 hrs? Have you checked the plugs internal resistance? Have you tested them under pressure in a test unit after you cleaned them? What shape is the center electrode ? Are they fine wire or massives? Have you rotated them top to bottom every 100 hrs? Are they in fact the correct plug for that engine? Has the well below the center electrode been clean to the very bottom after servicing or is there still lead deposits in the bottom? Now lets go to the leads. Have you done a high tension leakage check on them? What shape are they in? How old are they? I had a low speed misfire that cleaning plugs and repairing mags didn't cure. Changed out the plug leads and it solved the issue. Now lets go to the mags- How long have they been run without a good 500 inspection and repair? Any good A&P can do a good 500 hr on either a Bendix or Slick without too much trouble. They need a 500 hr insp even though it's only recommended, you need to do it. By your own comments that it runs good after a flight I'd be inclined to think plugs long before I did an overhaul on the mags. I'd for sure do a 500 hr if you haven't done so and replace the plugs if they continue to cause the problem. You can get "hotter" plugs to help eliminate fouling if that is what is causing your issues. Check the spark plug effectivity chart for your make and model engine

You may be lucky and find a shop with open time the last 6 months but?

You can go to the TCDS sheet for your M20C and read what vac pumps are directly replaceable without and STC (it's on page 14 of the Mooney TCDS sheets) I have copied the info below: 602. ……Vacuum Pumps (Required IFR, Optional VFR) see NOTE 24 (a) Airborne, 113A1, or..................................................................................... 4.0 lbs. ..................... 0.0 ( Airborne, 113A5, or..................................................................................... 4.0 lbs. ..................... 0.0 © Airborne, 200CC, or..................................................................................... 3.5 lbs. ..................... 0.0 (d) Airborne, 211CC.......................................................................................... 2.5 lbs. ..................... 0.0

If you had to resell 6 months after you buy it you might get 20K Your choice on what you want to spend for it.

MSL altitude is really meaningless. You gotta look at Density Altitude both for airplane performance and human performance. It can be more than 2000 feet higher than MSL altitude. I go to 12,500 quite often but out here in the west it means a DA of 13.5 or more in the summer. I have done the Alt Chamber thingy and I know how my body reacts to altitude. I don't go above 12,500 with out O2. I know I can't do 13.0 without it. 500 feet makes a big difference with me regardless of the DA. My C model does fine at 12.5 once I get to 13 it all pays off out here in the west with the summer time up and down drafts. 13.5 would be usable if it wasn't for the down drafts out here in the west.

Oscar- NICE panel setup! I just did a 6700 msl airport with a density altitude of 8000+' (it was hot) with a 3% upslope on each end of the runway, can't see the other end from the T/O position No wind, dead calm took @1500' to get airborne with just me and 1/2 tanks. Took a while to get to 10,500 msl (probably 12,000 density altitude). On my C once I hit about 13,000 DA I'm pretty well done with climbing.

DrBill- GREAT comment not many know that little trick and struggle after clamping the pump in-or cross thread the B nuts.

How are you able to be rid of the transponder? One has to stay in the airplane and be integrated with the UAT (GL88) or replace an C mode transponder with a 1090ES one. Option 1- standard C mode xponder needs a UAT (for "out" info) and a WAAS engine of some type (stand alone or WAAS GPS panel mount nav unit) for position info at the very least to comply. NOT good above 17,999' Option 2- standard C mode transponder with a WAAS GPS nav system in panel needs at min a UAT for "out". info to comply. Again not above 17.999' Option 3 Remove C mode xponder and install 1090ES one (still need a WAAS engine somewhere, either from panel mounted GPS nav or stand alone) for "out" compliance even above 18,000'. ES has TIS-B in for traffic display but NOT FIS (weather info in). You would need a separate UAT to get weather in for display. All weather "in" has to come from a UAT as it is broadcast on 978 Mhz and only UATs operate at that frequency. That's the way I read it with 2 days study so far. Here is a very good 30 min program on how and why ADS-B works http://adsbuniversity.com/ads-b-university

Have been using plain old clean engine oil to lube the spark plug threads for 40+ years. I have found it far better than anything in a can. A real old time A&P taught me the trick. Put agood drop on finger and spin the threads with the other hand. Works great. At 100 hrs most are still moist with oil in the threads. They come out easy.