cliffy

I guess we're missing the point here. This is a job for a young single who WANTS to go into aviation. Right now if you want to make the big bucks you gotta start somewhere. If you have 250 hrs you can't even get on at a 135 because the Feds make it 500 hrs min. You want to go 121? 1500 hrs by the Feds. Sure you can tow banners or drop people with chutes or maybe even Alaska but this one bypasses those. Most will never make it to $150K/yr in this flying business. You have to love it to stay on. Just like professional sports, very few make it to the top. I know the people who are offering and they are honest people but they know the market also. They are business people but willing to give someone a chance. I wish something like this was available 45 yrs ago when I was starting out. It wasn't! The last of the "Golden Careers" in airline flying died 20 years ago. I know, I was there. But if you have to fly with an airline to feel alive, than you have to start somewhere.

Got asked today if I knew anyone who wanted a flying job. Low time Commercial OK. Will fly Cirrus and Twin Comanche on Pt 91 until you get 500 hrs then transition into the 135 ops on the Cirrus. Don't know the pay but you will live in Page AZ (KPGA). Good for time building for a Comm/Inst/Multi.

Here's a picture of the foam plug Finally got to the airport

I thought foam floated! Needed ping pong balls in the wings :-) And a riggers knife to cut the shrouds.

Still looks like an interesting project. Two thoughts. Could a NACA duct be used bottom center for the carb inlet with the filter horizontal just below the carb? Secondly, I've always felt that with the oil cooler inlet below the engine deck that when the cowl flaps are closed to limit airflow the air pressure in the lower cowl would rise somewhat due to the limited outflow. If that happens then the oil cooler differential pressure across the cooler would lessen and it would have less flow for oil cooling. Now with optimized inlets ?? Might be a different story. Just thinking.

C-FRJI Can you use non-approved parts in Canada on certified airplanes? We can't down here in the lower 48. They even say on their literature that the kit is not FAA approved. Just curious, did your Aircraft Technician put them on and sign off on the log books?

jetdriven- interesting thought As to parts manual listing I've never really changed anything just because it was in the parts manual as most parts have a specific aircraft serial number range for applicability. If the s/n applicability doesn't match the actual a/c s/n I would think the Feds would take issue. Have you ever had a Feds wave his magic wand and directly approve any of your parts manual changes? Not saying it can't be done (I have to check some more) just asking. High CHT- I've never seen 400 CHT on my C let alone 500. My doghouse works fine. 500 in my book is WAY too high. When was the CHT gauge last calibrated? That might make a big difference as would all the connections to the CHT temp lead. The temp probe and lead would also be checked on a calibration bench check, not just the gauge

I think someone wrote in a while back that they picked up 10 kts when they changed yokes! :-)

Check Boeing Winds forecast. I know high altitude winds are always from the west so GS will be way down. https://www.windyty.com/?surface,wind,now,46.012,-70.137,3 Here's a good view of world wide winds

Congrats on your purchase and I hope the PB goes well. Biggest issue for new Mooney guys in speed control on landing. Remember this please- If you bounce a landing GO AROUND. You will get the prop on the 3rd touch down Most bounced landing come from too much speed. With careful planing and a lot of luck you'll do fine on your trip if you take your time and pick your weather. Sounds like you don't have "get homeitis" which is good.

mooneybuilder- Thanks for attending and the contribution to our forum. Brakes- many times very neglected. Found mine to be nothing but red jelly inside the wheel cylinders when I first opened them after purchase. Brake hoses were 20+ years old then. They crackled when bent. Rotors too thin. Nose steering linkage- Have found several of them WAY too loose with wear. Lift the nose wheel off the ground and try turning it. If it moves a lot its worn. Fuel caps- another neglected area. Replace orings (2 each) every year(cheap), relube and check adjustment to keep out water. Mooneys have gone down because of water in fuel from oring leakage. Just a caution- If you have one with electric gear and it has ever had a gear collapse with bent rods make sure the link rods are the correct ones for your airplane (several different lengths available) and I found one with an incorrect motor ( no way to "legally" install it).

Carpet or padding on the nose gear tunnel or your J bar boot at the bottom could he bunching up From there you might have too tight uploads. I'm going to presume that the gear has been properly lubed. You might also look at the big springs in the wings. I had one with popped rivits on my prebuy years ago on my C. Do not check over center preload without the proper tools, period.

Being as how it will affect the cooling of the engine it will be considered a major alteration. It will at the very least require some kind of approved data to do the change or a full fly off to show compatible cooling efficiency with a field approval. There may be some kind of STC available for the swap if you dig. If you can find someone who has done it a received a field approval you can copy it exactly and apply for your own FA BUT it will depend on who and what FAA office you work with. My dog house cools fine after a little clean up work. Why do you want to change it out?

Really do some soul searching about going from a new PPL to a 180 kts go fast airplane. The 2 are not really compatible. Likewise factor in a little weather and NO scud running and you might be rethinking your plans. 140 kts vs 160 kts is only 28 mins. The price of entry for 180 kts goes way up compared to 140/160 kts.

Does the STC require drilling new holes?

I believe it is a locking ring for the stud in the head. The stud is screwed in to a certain depth and the insert is slipped down on the stud and driven into a counter bored hole at the stud entrance to secure the stud from turning. The teeth on the stud engage the inner ring teeth and the outer ring teeth are driven into the aluminum head material. Obviously the outside nut was frozen to the threads and the mechanic applied Charles Atlas torque trying to break it free and succeeded in breaking free not the nut but the stud securing items. You may be faced with cylinder removal and head welding

A couple of real good threads reside in history here

Typically a sagging engine is due to old sagging engine mounts. The front of the lowers and the rear of the uppers. Shimming a sagging engine with old mounts is only masking the real problem. any speed run comparison needs to be done at the same density altitude and power to be valid.

1395 I agree 100% I stayed on it till I retired as there was no other option. Just didn't like it. Still don't :-)

I'm with bluevalley! 727 737 757 767 none of those limited my authority on the controls (and I could see what the right seater was doing with the controls). The only one that did was the POS Airbus. It's stability program also stinks. In smooth air it wallows down and ILS like a drunk sailor. I usually clicked it off and hand flew better that Auto. The right side can't tell what the left side is doing and vice versa! Even Sully agrees here! One has to go way back in history to figure out why the Airbus is the way it is. (those who forget history are bound to repeat it!) The initial Airbus design was for ab initio flight training by 3rd world countries for the state airline. They wanted and airplane that they could take a 300 or 400 hr wonder and put him in the right seat and the airplane would not let him do anything stupid like roll 90 degrees or pitch 35 degrees. That's how we got the POS Airbus! Normal law will not allow the airplane to stall. It goes to the "eyebrow" (a marker on the horizon in pitch) and it will go no further up to stall. Stall protection in NORMAL law on the a/c control system. In ALT law there is stall warning but no protection. That is what the Airbus over the Atlantic was in when they stalled it from 35000 feet all the way to the water. The wiz kid in the right seat flying couldn't realize that the airplane was stalled (IT CAN'T STALL EVEN WITH TH ESTICK ALL THE WAY BACK was the way he was taught!) and the left seater couldn't tell what the right seater was doing with his stick, NO FEEDBACK from side to side. The bottom level law was DIRECT law and what the stick did the airplane did. It's been a lot of years but that's how I remember it. I guess you can tel my feelings on the matter Rant over for now :-)

Did some more checking with AOPA Medical and was told that if you have CAT surgery and DO NOT use multifocal lens you only need to wait 30 days and have your Doc assure you that you are seeing 20/40 or better to go flying (self-certify). If you use multifocal you need the 90 days. Then you have to get the FAA eye form filled out for your NEXT physical and bring it in. Can anyone comment on this? Looks like they are saying you don't have to get a new physical before you can fly.

Usually sticks because of crud on the big square tube where it slides through the guide blocks. Clean and dry and you might use spray silicone that dries completely. My hand crank sits right where my left knee wants to be so I want to dump the crank up one and install a fixed type from a later Mooney.

Maybe I should start a new thread for this but it is eye related. 3rd class calls for 20/40 or better (all the others 20/20)corrected. Now, mention was made of cataract surgery. With that being so prevalent today with us "older" pilots, can someone chime in on what the process is? Is it like any other surgery in that once you recover you can continue flying until your next medical (self-certify) and then report it on your next medical? Most of the time, vision is 20/40 or better after that surgery.

Nice! Very nice!

Just a question, Are you trying to keep your RPM down while on the ground? It helps a lot to keep the dings down. All so by opening the throttle slowly on T/O helps also. But you may already know this.