carusoam

Look for standard mil spec hydraulic fluid in you manual, also known as cherry juice because of it's red color. I don't think the c,d,e,f or g will use different fluids, but check your manual to be sure. Search this board for other reasons the hydraulic flap/brakes leak. The hoses and seals tend to leak after 40+ years.... -a-

A good clean M20C will get you where you want to go quickly and efficiently. You can always step up from there. Tight comparisons between models probably won't help. Surprise broken things cost more than the differences in models. -a-

Jim, Did you get a chance to see the old vernatherm? Was there anything obviously wrong about it, bent, worn or anything? Glad you found the smoking gun on this one. It was sounding alot like something more serious. Best regards, -a-

I think you would need clarification on that. Full rich below 3,000 has been taught to me while primary training. Your POH will indicate power settings at altitude by following a specific leaning procedure. My M20R POH mentions 50dF rich of peak.

By flying further away you add a tinge of risk. How do you get home while an important part is on back-order for a week? -a-

Referred to as the "Butler Buttonhook" by Aviation Consumer. Declared to be marketing driven. -a-

Clean oil on the floor....? Off the top of my head, the sources I am familiar with: [1] When filling fresh oil into the fill tube, it is way too easy to miss the target. Some amount of oil runs through the cowling and down the gear doors and collects on the ground. [2] The only other source of oil that goes into the cabin is from the oil pressure sensor, but that would leave a huge mess in the cabin, and would be discolored to match what is in the engine. [3] The least probable would be from the "whiskey" compass. It is filled with kerosene and would have emptied itself completely. It smells strongly of kerosene. [4] The last thing I can think of... Check the seal on the spare bottle of oil that was in the back that may have spilled? The plastic bottle/induction seal that they are made of probably don't stay sealed in the low pressure environment that 10,000' msl creates. The rug must have some tell tale signs. best regards,

The expensive part of this modification is whether or not you have the sensor location on the carburetor. I believe the threaded boss would need to be in the carburetor already. I did not have one in my M20C. Experienced carb ice once in moist weather, cleared out by using carb heat. It would be nice to have positive confirmation of temperature indicator. Spooky moment when HP decreases and goes even lower with carb heat and melting ice. -a-

Isn't the twin Mooney called a Commander? The turbine Mooney is called a TBM? I thought we were supposed to step up through these planes first.... -a-

I re-read Jose's post, and I tend to agree. [1] Its blue.....and it's doing the chromatography trick. (The color moves as far as it can until it's carrier evaporates) [2] If it were red it would be flaps and brakes. [3] Oil can't get to the belly pan in that quantity, without leaving the crank case very empty. [4] There is probably a significant amount of fuel missing from the tank, it takes a fair amount of evaporation to leave this much darkness. [5] Since it is the belly pan area, the wing roots are probably worth taking a look at. Check the cockpit floor near the wing roots for additional stains. Things that like to leak in this area are the 40 year old fuel lines and the fuel senders. Since this comes as a surprise, the fix might be one of those things mentioned. The expensive ones are the small leaks that turn into medium leaks that grow and grow over time.... Use caution working with and around fuel leaks. 100LL does not vaporize as easily as gasoline, but it does light up with a simple spark. There is a picture of a crispy mooney on this board somewhere if you need a serious reminder. -a-

MSFS is an excellent procedure trainer. Get it right first on the PC, then go do it in the plane. It's the cheapest way to know the airport environment and the instrument approaches that you are going to face before you get there.... I am sure everyone will agree that MSFS is not a subsitute for real training, and its nav data gets old as it is not kept up to date. Best regards, -a-

Dave, Do you have a copy of the parts catalog? There is an excellent drawing of what the actuator system should look like. I amended my post above and included the drawing reference. It turns out that the M20F actuator system is very different from the M20C actuator system. Best regards, -a-

Removed my thoughts..... It turns out that M20C & D are very different from M20E & F. Mooney M20 Parts Manual - Parts Catalog Page 247, Fig 58 Cowl Flap Closure Control System, Best regards, -a-

Phil, Thanks for the link. I am not sure of the benefit of a third class medical. I am required to have one to fly my mooney, but I don't need one to fly light sport or drive my big honkin' SUV in tight formation. There will come a day to stop flying, but it will probably be announced by something other than a third class medical. Based on the dropped requirement for light sport, I can follow the same logic for PPL. Should we sign the petition? -a-

Joe, My M20R has recently finished its annual in Robbinsville. The plane has 15 years of MSC documentation. I bought it with a pre-purchase inspection done at an MSC. There will be no surprises by taking it back to an MSC. If your plane has not seen an MSC in a while, it is a good idea, but may be slightly surprising... Your other choice of mooney knowledge is Caldwell, KCDW. I have no experience with them. It is worth visiting Robbinsville to see what mooneys they have opened up on their floor. Dave Mathiesen is the key person running the business. Best regards, -a-

Barry, A short search for LEDs in other threads will be a reminder that leaving at least one old bulb in the circuit is a good way to keep the rheostat working. You might have that bulb...There should be a light over the fuel switch on the pilot side that can be included in the circuit. This way you can have your LED nulites and an old incandescent to help you out. Of course, check with your A&P for details.... -a-

Jpusser, Check your POH for the chart of fuel flow vs. manifold pressure (MP) at your chosen rpm. I am thinking that the 9gph that you researched is at a reduced power setting. the 11gph that you are experiencing is related to a higher power setting (full throttle, 2500 rpm, at 5,500 ft). What does your POH say? My M20C experience showed that I would measure/calculate slightly less than 10gph at full throttle, 2400 rpm at 11,500 ft. This was using the similar leaning technique and fuel measurement that you have described. Start, taxi and Climbing were on other tank and removed from the calculation. You will find that power setting can greatly increase your fuel flow rate. With this set-up, it is diificult to to accurately measure fuel flow while flying. Fuel flow gauges have become very popular in recent years. See the following authoritive article: http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20C%20Evaluation/M20C_Evaluation_Report.html "the M20C should always give true airspeeds between 142 and 146 knots below 8000 feet and right at 140 knots nearing 10000 feet. Fuel burn rates at 50 degrees rich of peak should be right at 11.5 gallons per hour down low and 9.5 gallons per hour up high. Remember, these numbers are for the most efficient cruise power setting - full throttle, 2500 RPM, leaned to peak plus 50 degrees rich, cowl flaps closed." Best regards, -a-

Dave is right on target on this one. I went to the body shop with a panel that had all three colors of my plane. They matched each one and generated a formula that any paint shop can follow. The next trick is trying to get a good way to spray it as an amateur. -a-

jpusser, How are you measuring fuel flow in your in your 62C? fuel flow monitor? If it is based on refilling the tank at the end of a flight, did you account for high fuel flow during take-off/climb? How are you leaning to get best fuel flow? Are you using the ships' EGT or do you have a better monitor? Best regards, -a-

Dave, I like the idea. With the R, there is an fresh air vent out the bottom, overall my dimensions are probably different than the J.... -a-

Ned, I'll see what I can come up with. When I first got the 65C, the straps were decayed. I thought they came with the plane. As you may know, My C is gone, I have the R now. -a-

I have the reif.... But I am considering the Red Dragon for those days away from electricicty... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/reddragpreheater.php 12V with disposable tank option. Can be powered by car battery or portable inflator/jumpstart battery. No, I don't think I would use the ship's battery for this, save the power for the starter..... I'll reconsider the generator route though.... -a-

I have seen one mooney missile owner using 3M tape. His thoughts were more towards use as an ice repellent. His paint was not worth saving... -a-

1964-M20E, Are you based in KNEW? I am planning on visiting the Big Easy. My pre-planning indicates that KNEW is a great spot for GA. Any thoughts on airplane parking, fuel, travel (taxi?) etc. Thanks, -anthony-

"Because my plane does not have luggage tie downs" Takair, 65 M20Cs have tie downs, are you sure that 64 M20Es do not? Adding tie downs would be a better solution... than relying on the seat back to evenly adsorb a 9g impact of a 120 lb object and protect the occupants in front. Calculating 270 Lbs. per attachment point is assuming even distribution with the object already pressed against the seat back prior to impact. Since your plane was delivered with seatbelts with no shoulder harnesses, I don't think the seat back was designed with that much thought and matching testing to prove it's value as impact protection. Being safety conscious is not paranoia, but applying today's safety standards to 40+ year old planes is not a perfect fit either... Best regards, -a-