carusoam

Crash n Burn, Two things I learned by following the link you left above. [1] Wing Tips Not Available For 1967 or Early 1968 (S/N 680001 thru 680170) M20F's. Wing Tips Are Also Not Available For 1968 M20G's. [2] Contact information for SWTA.... Parts: (800)749-7982 (SWTA) E-Mail:PARTS General Information: (512)353-3455 E-Mail:INFORMATION For such specific detail, have you tried to contact SWTA? Best regards, -a-

"Looks like there is a good balance of votes between normal vs. accelerated training"- Brandon Between the two options of local vs. accelerated is a method used by American Flyers.... Consider the fire hose method... as much as you can take, for as long as you can take it, with the flexibility of taking a break for a couple of days or a week to attend to other business or holidays. They use several instructors interchangably, or just one if you like the slower "local" option. Their syllabus is solid and clearly recorded at the end of each lesson. I used this organization an finished in about 6 weeks time with a week off for Christmas. A few hours a day after work. Several hours on the weekend. I really enjoyed seeing how different instructors approached the same issues. (Do you use rudder only and waggle down the ILS? - some do) You will see the different approaches from each CFII, and it is good. Rememeber you are not learning to fly, your PIC of your ship, and you will benefit by the slightly different approaches and techniques. I am sure there are other suppliers of this similar method. I considered the accelerated approach, but I travel for business and could not spend so much vacation time on this. I also benefitted by stretching it out. I went 12 years without an instrument rating and I did not need one in the next 10 days... Enjoy the training, you get to fly with purpose. Spreading it out should help you with the retention also. If you need/want the ticket in 10 days, As a Mooney pilot, you are already a driven individual, and I am sure it will work for you. $.02 delivered.... -a-

I had also exchanged old screws for ss versions. I found after 30 years, many of the fasteners did not match the maint. manual recommendation (too long, too short, or whatever someone had on hand). I used WD40 to clean and lubricate the screws before going back in the plane. Kept them in small ziplock bags, relating them to the area that they came from. Aircraft spruce sells preselected kits of screws. (oil probably makes a better longer lasting lube than WD40) Sorry for the thread creep. Wanted to voice in on replacing the old with ss (including dzus fasteners). After 10 years of ownership, I was able to enter and exit all inspection panels with ordinary tools. This would really help you answer "what is behind panel # X." Best regards, -a-

"It was a challenge to carry everything we needed for the various presentations, but the cargo fit nicely into the Ovation, and we were way under gross." One fine salesman told me - 'if it fits in the Tahoe, it will fit in the Ovation' I think you guys proved him right... Congratulations on the award. -a-

Leesh, Within a day's trip.....would you consider flying to NJ? Check out http://www.airmodsandrepair.com/forsale/main This is an MSC in Robbinsville, NJ (outside of Trenton). There are always several mooneys being maintained. You can see many mooneys up close. There is also an M20F for sale at nearby Princeton Airport http://www.princetonairport.com/N3490N.html Flying the Hudson river corridor would make it worth the trip. (get the FAA training on line first and a TAC) Best regards, -a-

The Encore is clearly worth the price to some. Hence market pricing the way it is..... however, If you going to spend time researching exotic upgrades on old planes to turn them into something different.... Try putting ovation legs on the continental 550 modified Porsche mooney (M20L) and get something out of the deal... Thread searching indicates that the M20L is a spectactular plane but is gross weight limited by its skinny legs.... Good luck with your upgrade searching.... -a-

Teflon spray worked well for my 1965 M20C. Just a little lasts a few months. Easy to clean and spray. Silicone spray (WD40?) also works well, but does not last as long. Best regards, -a-

Thanks for the great KNEW advice. Best regards, -a-

No gray in Bagram? But Gray in Dammam....hmmm Thanks for serving guys. Happy veterans day.!

CRXCTE, 1965 M20C - Also has vacuum retractable step. Use caution pushing the step up by hand. This can cause the spring to go sproing. Note: Birds really like to enter the back of the tail cone at the rudder. This is also known as the starling hatchery. -a-

Thread resurrection.... [1] Printed some charts. (duat, AOPA, flightplan.com etc....) [2] Have electronic charts on IPAD. (wingX Pro7 - Its near magical, but, I think I am the sole owner of this app) [3] Printed FAA charts from website - wide format printer. (same as purchased at FBO) Noticed: [1] and [2] are often missing data such as MEAs / MCAs and published holds...small bits and pieces... Are the bits and pieces really missing? How are you guys dealing with the missing bits and pieces? After flight planning, I probably don't need the MEAs? (east coast, this is probably a true statement) If given a hold, I can ask for clarification? There won't be a Loss of communication, so I don't need to worry about MEAs being above my current assigned altitude. Thanks for your thoughts, -a-

Ned, Changing the klixons all at once is better than one at a time.... The solid buss bar on the back has to come off to get one or all... Will you be upside down in the footwell or working blind from the top in front of the windshield? Best regards, -a-

"Getting to 70º LOP with stock injectors isn't bad at all." How LOP can you go? much below 50deg LOP, I start losing too much speed, and vibration starts to show up. (IO550G) -a-

Cap'n crash... If the G were a gift, and you have a boat load of dough, sweat and patience....you could get there (or at least come pretty close) Welcome to the neighborhood.... -a-

Ryan, Things to check when changing plugs. [1] New crush washers. [2] Torque wrench and proper torque value. [3] Clean connection to ignition wires, Age of ignitions wires, might consider changing these out also. [4] Time since O/H on magnetos. I believe 500 hrs is the usual recommendation. If you are up over 1,000 hrs since O/H..... [5] Are these different plugs than what was in there before or are they identical replacements? Best regards, -a-

Look for standard mil spec hydraulic fluid in you manual, also known as cherry juice because of it's red color. I don't think the c,d,e,f or g will use different fluids, but check your manual to be sure. Search this board for other reasons the hydraulic flap/brakes leak. The hoses and seals tend to leak after 40+ years.... -a-

A good clean M20C will get you where you want to go quickly and efficiently. You can always step up from there. Tight comparisons between models probably won't help. Surprise broken things cost more than the differences in models. -a-

Jim, Did you get a chance to see the old vernatherm? Was there anything obviously wrong about it, bent, worn or anything? Glad you found the smoking gun on this one. It was sounding alot like something more serious. Best regards, -a-

I think you would need clarification on that. Full rich below 3,000 has been taught to me while primary training. Your POH will indicate power settings at altitude by following a specific leaning procedure. My M20R POH mentions 50dF rich of peak.

By flying further away you add a tinge of risk. How do you get home while an important part is on back-order for a week? -a-

Referred to as the "Butler Buttonhook" by Aviation Consumer. Declared to be marketing driven. -a-

Clean oil on the floor....? Off the top of my head, the sources I am familiar with: [1] When filling fresh oil into the fill tube, it is way too easy to miss the target. Some amount of oil runs through the cowling and down the gear doors and collects on the ground. [2] The only other source of oil that goes into the cabin is from the oil pressure sensor, but that would leave a huge mess in the cabin, and would be discolored to match what is in the engine. [3] The least probable would be from the "whiskey" compass. It is filled with kerosene and would have emptied itself completely. It smells strongly of kerosene. [4] The last thing I can think of... Check the seal on the spare bottle of oil that was in the back that may have spilled? The plastic bottle/induction seal that they are made of probably don't stay sealed in the low pressure environment that 10,000' msl creates. The rug must have some tell tale signs. best regards,

The expensive part of this modification is whether or not you have the sensor location on the carburetor. I believe the threaded boss would need to be in the carburetor already. I did not have one in my M20C. Experienced carb ice once in moist weather, cleared out by using carb heat. It would be nice to have positive confirmation of temperature indicator. Spooky moment when HP decreases and goes even lower with carb heat and melting ice. -a-

Isn't the twin Mooney called a Commander? The turbine Mooney is called a TBM? I thought we were supposed to step up through these planes first.... -a-

I re-read Jose's post, and I tend to agree. [1] Its blue.....and it's doing the chromatography trick. (The color moves as far as it can until it's carrier evaporates) [2] If it were red it would be flaps and brakes. [3] Oil can't get to the belly pan in that quantity, without leaving the crank case very empty. [4] There is probably a significant amount of fuel missing from the tank, it takes a fair amount of evaporation to leave this much darkness. [5] Since it is the belly pan area, the wing roots are probably worth taking a look at. Check the cockpit floor near the wing roots for additional stains. Things that like to leak in this area are the 40 year old fuel lines and the fuel senders. Since this comes as a surprise, the fix might be one of those things mentioned. The expensive ones are the small leaks that turn into medium leaks that grow and grow over time.... Use caution working with and around fuel leaks. 100LL does not vaporize as easily as gasoline, but it does light up with a simple spark. There is a picture of a crispy mooney on this board somewhere if you need a serious reminder. -a-