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Mitch, Very nice articulation, way beyond the stock version. Thanks for the photos. Best regards, -a-

Mitch, If you get the opportunity, could you photograph the Wisors in the R? The mini stock eyebrows are so unappreciated... I was unaware that there is an alternative. Best regards, -a-

Thinwing, We need a heads up display with airspeed in giant easy to read numbers....Any ideas? or, on short final, a voice calling out air speed each time it changes. 78....77...76.. 75. 74 Best regards, -a-

716, Sharing my thoughts on buying machinery... I have a preference for the folks at Air-Mods. However, if you are buying a plane from them, or the last annual was performed by them.... Good business sense dictates that you should go elsewhere with it for a PPI. This will protect you from any mistake that the seller/MSC has made. It will protect you from making a misunderstanding of what is being represented. Overall, it will help give you a more balanced view of the current status of the bird you are looking at. The sales guy is expected to add sunshine to the dream. The independent inspector is expected to douse the dream in rain. The truth will be somewhere in the middle. You, as potential owner, will know where that is. The driving force for the independence: any mis-steps that are made, always cost the buyer.... A good pre-buy may cost you an AMU. A bad one can potentially cost many times that. To be clear, I would not expect a bad PPI from Air-Mods, but business sense should be the driving force. Unless the annual is due in the next three months, I would focus on the PPI and the purchase process. Getting that part done right is the key to your first years affordability. If the annual is due now....PPI and annual done somewhere away from the seller/previous annual. When its over, it may have cost a few bucks more, but you will feel better about the solid decisions that you made. (worked for me anyway). Best regards, -a-

Sun N Fun anyone? http://www.sun-n-fun.org/FlyIn.aspx http://www.discwritecd.com/pres_samples/sun-n-fun/sun-n-fun.html'>

One mystery (misery) solved.... "pin-out" diagram for Narco CP135 does not have a speaker as part of it's repetoire..... http://www.narco-avionics.com/installpages/CP135-Pinout.pdf CP136, however does...... http://www.narco-avionics.com/installpages/CP136-Pinout.pdf See pin #4 "cabin speaker" Ned, you gave me another reason to dislike the Narco(s) even more........ Anyone interested in CP136?, I still have one..... Sorry, couldn't find a reference to 4 or 8 ohms for the speaker. 12V automobiles, usually use 4 ohm. House Audio usually uses 8 ohm. aircraft spruce shows 3.2 ohms (input impedance)..... spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/quam_speakers.php $30 USD. The original specs are probably in the electrical diagram in the M20 Parts Manual.... http://www.67m20e.com/M20E_manuals.htm - Thanks to Brian at Flight 2000..... I am on a slow wireless so I was unable to go to the wiring diagrams...... I like Mike's idea best, Check your new equipment requirements and there is no need for what used to be hiding up there.... Best regards, -a-

Jose, Jetmech...... Any thoughts....? -a-

I read the leak test procedure. For anyone following along: Remove governor and replace with 1/2" steel plate drilled and tapped for compressed air and differntial pressure gauge (compression test). Apply 40 psi air to system and read how much air pressure is retained in the system (vs calibrated leak of compression tester). David indicates 0 PSI retained. All of the air leaked out. if the pressure read 40 psi, none was leaking out. Prop would have been stuck in low rpm. Acceptable range is 6 to 35 psi. Looks like a leak in the system. Now the question is where. shaft plug or shaft seals sound like the only "internal leak" options. I would still want to verify two things: [1] can I hear or perceive the leak when air pressure is applied. [2] is the prop cylinder activating when pressure is applied. [1] Prove to yourself a second time that it is a leak into the engine: Are you able to apply the air pressure to the system to set up an audible leak. listen down the oil fill tube? If air is leaking into the block I would think you can hear it. Leaky valves are audible in their exhaust pipe during compression tests, for example. [2] Prove to yourself it is not a prop problem: It sounds like you have eliminated the prop as a problem already. Were you able to activate the prop cylinders by pressurizing the system? The two bladed props, i believe only has one cylinder? I don't know how easy it is to test the shaft plug for a leak even with the prop removed. The crank is straight hole with a plug on one end. The side oil supply holes will be open to the exterior shaft seals. You would have to apply pressure beyond the supply holes to test / eliminate only the shaft plug. You may be able to test /eliminate the shaft seals by applying pressure (as you did before) to the system and blocking the side feed holes. It will be difficult to hold back 6 psi of pressure, but if you hold back more than 0 psi, it is good news for seals. Maybe the front seal is removable to inspect the rear seal? Maybe the shaft plug can be inspected for shape and condition, prior to removing and replacing. It is a simple aluminum coin that is compressed in place. I think removing it is like taking out a freeze plug from an engine casting. It get's destroyed in the process. It would be hard to tell if it were the cause after the fact. If you need to create a test (unlikely): Can you build a shaft size plunger? a disk that is wide enough to block of the side supply holes and wrapped in a rubber material to create a simple plunger seal. A little oil to complete the seal and allow for sliding down the crankshaft. You can use it to block off the supply holes during the compression test on the shaft seals. You can use it as a simple piston. Move it down the shaft, it should move easily up to the side supply holes. After that, it should start compressing air against the shaft plug. (if it is really plugging that is). Just some additional thoughts. Hoping for the best.... -a-

Scott, Nicely done. What year is your plane, 66 or 2006? It looks like a rainy day in Iowa. Barometric pressure is easily readable from 3,000 miles away, at 29.0" Best regards, -a-

I think AOPA has a self stick button that is clearly placarded "panic button". Kendal could put one next to the keep alive button and keep his passengers busy for the entire flight. Kendal, The pitts could probably use a set of Keep alive and panic buttons too.... Best regards, -a-

David, What you have experienced is governor system failure. It is unlikely that you have oversped your engine. When the govenor system fails on your aircraft it fails to max rpm. You handled it the only way possible, reduce manifold pressure and operate it like a fixed pitch prop until you can put it safely on the ground. (When the governor system fails on a rocket or missile, they go to full feather, nice idea for max glide if the engine dies, not so nice if it is a simple governor system failure.) Thoughts to share on your tests and observations... [1] Partial control is back after hitting the plug back in place? I believe this plug forms a seal by being properly "hammered" into place. It's proper operation requires a tight seal. If it comes out, putting it back in is a good idea, but it will already have been "shaped" by its initial installation. Shaping it again will unlikely give the proper seal that you are looking for. I put this up there with crush washers for spark plugs. Not a good idea to reuse. The next owner of my plane, unfortunately, reported having to replace the plug again. My A&P had also reused the existing plug. These hardly ever fail, so nobody keeps one in stock. Very few people have experience with it. [2] Lower number oils are heavier in weight, higher in viscosity, and perfom better in gear pumps than lighter weight oils. They pump well and leak less. Change the oil all you want, however, it will not be responsible for the prop control not working. One might be a little slower to react than the other.... [3] Govenor has gear pump and valves. Your rebuilt govenor was tested and you got a yellow tag back with that right? I think I understand that you had the existing one tested to these standards at least? The thought being that the valve system is stuck and the return side of the valve is left open. The gear pump always operates, the old style spinning regulator adjusts the valve position to either pressurize the prop or leak excess oil to the sump. [4] In the prop, there are cyllinders that use this pressurized oil to change the angle of attack of the blades. What is the condition of these cyllinders? If you pump pressure into the prop, do the blades operate properly. I don't recall how much oil pressure is required to operate the cyllinders. Compressed air (regulated, start low first) might work (your A&P will know). [5] If you were to disconnect the oil supply line back to the governor, pressurize the front you will either operate the prop blades or you will hear the leakage back into the engine block. Prop shop must have a definitive test for this. [6] How much does it cost to remove the old shaft plug and replace with a new shaft plug. [7] New idea - not to be alarming: The shaft seals at the front of the engine block are strong enough to not leak when oil is pressed into the crank shaft. If the back seal is deteriorating oil does not enter the shaft and leaks back into crank case...This would be a big job. take a look at your engine drawings and identify what there are for shaft seals at the front....seal bits would/may be showing up in your oil filter. I have not seen a shaft seal fail on anything but an ancient Chevy... and again, lighter weight oils would behave worse, not better, with a leaky seal. I am stuck in Oss, NL for a few days. I don't have access to the lycoming tests that you have stated or drawings. If you point me to where they are on the web or email me. I can take a look at it. It has been about five years since My M20C experienced this similar challenge. In case anyone is concerned...The recommendations I have given here are based on my personal experience and learning. It is up to you and your A&P/mechanic to follow proper procedure. I am not an A&P. Just an engineer with some flying experience and a few owner assisted annuals. Best regards, -a-

Mark, Sorry I am late to the party... Since you are in Staten Island, have you considered a short trip over to Robbinsville? Dave Mathiesen at Air-Mods and Repairs is our local Mooney Service Center (MSC). There are always 5 - 10 mooneys there getting annuals, mods, rebuilds, and training. It's the east coast version of Mooney Mecca, and you're not that far away. Use caution though, one of our newest members (Leesh) visited Robbinsville and was a Mooney M20F owner a week later. Search on Leesh for some of her observations.... http://www.mooneyspace.com/index.cfm?page=2&mainaction=posts&forumid=2&threadid=1878 Best regards, -a-

Apparently the previous owner had a sense of humor. "keep alive" their passengers must have loved that button. Data that is "kept alive" in my plane are: fuel used, clock, and radio frequencies. Best regards, -a-

Loss of RPM control comes mostly from loss of oil pressure in the prop. This can be caused by three things. Two of them are obvious, the third is not..... [1] govenor, most obvious, does not generate oil pressue to adjust prop. The govenor also houses the valves that release the oil pressure out of the prop. You said you took care of this. I had one rebuilt also. [2] Oil is leaking out of the system externally. This would be extremely obvious by the amount of oil on the windshield and excessive CHTs.....Again, not the issue. I had a prop rebuilt to match my governor. [3] Oil is leaking uncontrolled inside the system. This is something I learned from the Canard forum guys with Lycoming engines. There is a plug in the center of the crank shaft (at the front) that is leaking. The crankshaft is through drilled. Prop on one end and open to the crank case on the other. Oil pressure enters the the shaft through holes in the side by a hose supplied by the governor. That's the orange silicone covered oli line at the front of the engine. If the plug becomes unseated, the oil pressure that is supposed to hold your prop angle of attack / rpm is now leaking back unnoticeably into the crank case. Fortunately the fix is simple. Remove the prop, inspect the plug and put it back ih place. My recommendation, if this is the case, is to supply a new plug. Your mechanic may want to just hammer the old plug back in. It came loose once, don't let it do it again. It's a low cost fix to a serious problem. I only found out how it worked, with enough detail, after I had my prop and governor overhauled. I now believe in a well balanced prop though..... Check your engine manual for part numbers. I am sure you will find the plug in a drawing at the prop end of the shaft. Good luck, let us know what you find.... Best regards,

Jeff, I have some experience similar to what you describe. The family used to use something called "X-10". There were a whole bunch of computer programmable (but independent) devices that could be used to turn things on and off. A phone call to the house and the heat could be turned up. I can imagine something similar for turning on the Tanis. http://www.x10.com/promotions/home_automation_n.html Might require a phone line or similar device though....? Best regards, -a-

Roger, EGTs are so dependent on instrument and location (compared to CHTs) it would be difficult to compare. highest Peak EGTs come with high fuel flows (lower altitudes). Low Peak EGTs come with lower fuel flows (such as, normally aspirated engine at 10,000' or higher) . You may notice that it is difficult to heat the cabin in winter at higher altitudes, not enough heat generated. Heat comes on strong as we descend. I would expect winter peaks to be slightly lower than summer peaks. (I never gathered enough apples to apples comparison data. For comparison to your situation, I see low 1,500s at peak with my continental IO 550G. My O-360 ships gauge was not calibrated, it did not even have numbers on it (65 M20C). Quick question, what instrument are you using? (JPI, EI or ship's gauge?) Best regards, -a-

Craig, Endlessly heating a T-Hanger with electricity sounds somewhat expensive, unless it is air tight and insulated. Have you considered adding an electric engine heater such as Reif? I have seen some people use a temperature sensitive plug so it only comes on when it is cold. Always nice to see you on MooneySpace. Happy New Year, and thanks again for supporting our community. Best regards, -a-

http://www.67m20e.com/ For M20 (c,d,e,f) manuals, Flight 2000 has some pre-J manuals conveniently posted in electronic form. Up to 1967 F, revised at July 1976....

Eldon, In my gallery there are about 40 pictures of various Mooneys from KOSH this year. They were originally posted with relatively high def. Some of the photos indicate the general area you are questioning. Let me know if any of these photos can help you. I can email a few photos in their original HD format if it helps. Unfortunately most are 20ft photos... -a-

Search N9218M On this site for same owner. http://flightaware.com/live/flight/N9218M You seem knowledgable, you are asking the right questions, you are aware and you have been advised.....

My 1965 got one added early in it's life. It is a tight spot between the leading edge and a turning prop. (experienced aviators and mechanics only!!!) It is wired for starting only, solenoid switches do not allow battery charging this way. Best regards, -a-

"I'm curious if anyone has compared the effects of the two techniques." Jeff_S [1] Nothing beats a slip for slowing down and losing altitude. [2] Nothing beats speed brakes for slowing down while maintaining coordinated flight. My comparison, now shared.... -a- As for the video...Great demonstration of how such a small device has a pretty large impact on aerodynamics. Real good heads up by the folks that captured the details. (flying at night, in the rain, with enough light on the wing to see the effects clearly and give narration at the same time)

Thinwing has kept us on track.... I've changed out enough of these, I should know better..... graphics from aircraft spruce.....

Ken, Great advice. Other than the sales tax, the continued ownership does not have any use tax or state registration associated with it. Could be worse, i guess...no board of equilization. -a-