KSMooniac

Both items have been sold! Thanks for the interest. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

This saddens me greatly! Such a nice guy here, and I expect even more so in real life. He seemed to do everything right taking care of himself and it is not fair to leave so soon!

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I'm listing these on behalf of a friend in the DFW area that is not on Mooneyspace. He sold his Ovation a few years ago and is clearing out some goodies that I cannot use! Redline Sidewinder Power Driver battery powered towbar/tug with battery and charger $1000 Enhanced Flight 28 VDC Model 2870A Ground Power Unit with 70 amp max continuous rating $900 If you're seriously interested please PM me and I'll connect you. Local pick up strongly preferred

The seats by themselves without the frame/reclining mechanism aren't worth a ton in the market except to sell to an existing owner so I can't imagine he'd try to sell them out the back door. If he had the seats AND the hardware, then that whole kit is worth thousands IMO with nice foam and covers. As mentioned, trying to source just the seats will be difficult and expensive since there aren't many out there. Then you'll have to recover to try to match your fronts, or recover all 4. I looked for a back seat "kit" to convert my bench for years and only found one for sale in the old MAPA classifieds for $2k with bad upholstery. This was circa 2010 or so. In 2013 I bought an entire salvage plane and got my initial kit from there, along with many other upgrades and spares. Later I got better seats from a Bravo through BAS. I still have the back seats from my late '81 salvage J but not all of the hardware for a retrofit. These are the tall back first generation seats with integrated head rests and I expect your '85 seats were shorter with a removable headrest. I would be happy to sell these older ones if you end up with no other option reasonably soon. I was planning to cut out some of the height and shrink the backs down and add conventional headrests, but just used the Bravo seats (after I recovered them) instead. Your best course of action is to turn that shop inside-out to locate them, and use a strong letter if needed to get that accomplished.

I went thru this last year and would advise you not to mess around with a used one unless you bench-check it first for leakage. Seals are not available for many of these old ones, unfortunately. I had Century Instruments in Wichita mark a freshly-overhauled United ASI for my J and would recommend that course vs. gambling on some salvage/used ones.

You have a couple of options, assuming you deleted the vacuum system with the panel upgrades. B&C makes a nice little alternator that lives on the accessory drive pad where the vacuum pump resides. It is STC'd for some applications, but I don't believe Mooneys are on the AML yet but I've read many accounts of easy field approvals for it since it is a safety enhancer. TCW has STC'd backup battery systems for many planes including Mooneys, and you can install it in several different ways. I have one of their systems to back up my dual ElectroAir electronic ignitions where it is wired to my #1 ignition and nothing else. They have schematic examples of different ways to connect it to a panel and I believe it would be pretty straight-forward to have it run a couple boxes, such as your GTN and GFC500, assuming you already have backup a battery on the G5 and perhaps G3X. Wiring integration of the TCW system will be more extensive than the B&C.

Their solution for the -A3B6D is a bit muddy, but fully approved and complete. The STC package is essentially TWO EIS-41000 kits, plus the backup battery kit from TCW with a wiring schematic to integrate everything together. Each EIS-41000 kit is installed separately since they are truly independent/redundant. They do not have a separate installation manual for the -42000 kit.

What are your issues? Did you do it yourself, or a shop? First time installation? Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

It was explained to me that variable hydraulic performance leads to minor variations in valve opening/closing and that affects power output as a second-order effect. Matching all of them to a tighter tolerance band would help smooth everything out, and I was after extreme balance and smoothness when doing my overhaul so I opted to go for that extra service. I might've gotten up-sold, but IIRC it wasn't much money. I think just a little bit of time to measure and sort from inventory vs. a machining operation. Vance, after all of my effort on balancing, flow-matching, etc. and a dynamic prop balance after break-in, I got to 0.01 IPS and my engine and prop feel like a sewing machine. The effort is worth it! You're likely just used to your shaky installation and don't know what you're missing. Even if you don't enjoy a smoother ride, minimizing the chances of a case crack should be enough motivation to take every precaution now to avoid downtime and expense later.

I wouldn't bet any modern engine parts will perform as well/last as long as your old stuff, even in a dry climate. Acknowledging that, I would go for DLC lifters and the firewall forward centrilube cam mod in addition to all of the options you already mentioned. Porting and polishing might not net noticeable power increases, but they can flow-match the cylinders so you get even power output from each, and thus a smoother engine. You can also get the lifters flow matched for bleed and that helps as well. Dynamic balancing of all the rotating mass and matching all pistons is vital for a smooth engine. They'll do it to a much tighter tolerance than Lycoming. All of that is beneficial for vibration reduction, increased comfort, reduced chance of case and exhaust cracking, etc. Sent from my motorola edge plus 2023 using Tapatalk

Welcome! I'd start with @mike_elliott and see if he is available.

If you want to thoroughly understand everything that is happening with the red knob of death, you should strongly consider the www.advancedpilot.com seminar, which I believe online-only now. You'll learn what happens and how to decide what to do in all phases, plus emergencies or trouble-shooting, far better than discussion forum debate. And yes, it will turn into a debate before the 2nd page of the thread. I'm a LOP guy as well, and use the Target EGT method and Vz climb profile generally speaking, which includes leaning in the climb using the Target EGT. I stay LOP until shut-down or go-around.

Not to belittle any poster here, but I presume pretty much all of us here are owners and have familiarity with our birds. If you see elevators out of whack to this extent right out of maintenance, that should be a glaring alarm bell that things are not right, and no flight should be attempted!

Errors like this kill people! Read the manuals, follow the procedures, use the travel/rigging boards, and double-check everything!