DonMuncy

I don't presume to know what works for everyone, but my David Clarks with Headsets Inc's ANR modules work very well for me. I have listened to Boses before, and they seem quieter than mine, but for the price difference I am quite happy.

Are these the "spark plug" variety, as opposed to the ones that go in the "well" underneath.

I think that would work fine. Let me know cost if you still have them.

I do wish I had a close airport where one can own his hangar. When I look back at the $ I have paid on rent in the last 21 years, I could have built one heck of a hangar.

I need to have my hangar elf replace acouple of my CHT probes (JPI- K type). I have used the cheapo variety (around $25) in the past, and I seem to have them needing replacement fairly often. The ones from JPI run around $110 or so. I see where Aircraft Spruce carries some thermocouple type for around $100 as well. Does anyone have any experience that says there is a real difference and whether the higher price ones are any better?

I am seriously considering getting and carrying a spare vacuum pump. The Mooney parts manual lists a half dozen, including Sigma Tek and Airborne, under various part numbers. Aircraft Spruce lists Rapco and Sigma Tek with various part numbers. They carry price tags from about $395 to $700+. How does one decide which one to use, and the various values.

Flying home yesterday, I suddenly realized I had no side tone in my radio when transmitting. Any easy answers? I sometimes feel like a total idiot. I have been flying over 25 years and I still have trouble with adjusting my radios. Getting the proper sounds going into my ears, the ears of my right seat passenger and (hopefully) ATC, is a challange if anyone has touched any knob in the system. Maybe someone needs to design a step by step process for getting everything set up, for dolts like me.

When I started my timer project, I did not find those. Finding timers that worked for 30 seconds or so was easy finding one that worked for 10 to 12 minutes was different.

You may be able to tell, I am only semi-electronically inclined. I used the transistors I had on hand. My (ignorant) guess is that a whole bunch of different ones would work. Just out of curiosity, why would you use the ones you mentioned?

Because I virtually never start a flight at night, I have not had the problem. My problem happened when I came home after dark and needed the time to unload the plane.

My timer should not affect the bulb situation. It would work the same way it does now, except about 10 to 12 minutes after shutting off the master switch, the cabin light will no longer have power to it.

Mike, Here is the schematic. Let me know if I can help.

Cmon guys. I developed an electronic timer for this very problem. I can give you schematics or I can build you one. It technically requires an A&P to install, but any semi-competent hangar elf can do it.

Naturally, only do it when the fuel level is below the sending unit hole. Someone else will have to tell you how many gallons that is.

Easy to change the gasket. Watch out for the washers, screws etc. If not done properly, the fuel level indication will be screwed up.

Thanks for all the input.

I just cleaned all the contact points and naturally it works fine. I smeared them lightly with petroleum jelly. It still works. If someone will remind me, I will report back in 6 months.

I agree. In the last 15 years or so, I have actually used mine once; and that was checking with the tower while waiting around for a clearance to leave in the midst of a bunch of planes. But if one really needed it, it would be well worth all the trouble.

I send a reminder to myself every 6 months to check the voltage of the batteries in my hand-held nav-com. The last couple of times, the batteries tested good, but then the radio would not turn on. After cleaning all the contacts (remember, there are about 25 different contact areas, what with 8 batteries etc.) it worked fine. Is there any product that can be applied to each of the contact points that is conductive and will deter what I perceive to be minor corrosion, causing the problem.

Looks great

Funny you should post about tow units at this time. I am in the process of building one of my tugs for another Mooney owner right now. Take a look at my album and see what you think of my design. I gladly share my plans etc., or I can build you one.

I won't argue with people who use alternative methods of assuring their battery is up to snuff, but as I understand it, a battery capacity test is necessary at each annual (and is the best test to determine whether your battery will provide you juice enough to run your instruments long enough if you have an alternator/generator failure). As others have pointed out, most IAs do not do capacity checks at annual. The equipment to do the test properly is expensive, primarily because it takes some pretty sophisticated stuff to maintain a constant amperage, because the amp draw constantly changes as the voltage changes. I built a relatively inexpensive but admittedly not super accurate tester, using two 6 amp bulbs to draw the battery down. But (assuming the bulb labels are accurate) when the voltage is above 12, the amp draw will be high, and when the voltage drops below 12, the draw is increasing lower. Good enough for government work? Who knows.

If you are asking if you can rent the plane from yourself (or from your own LLC), for $500 per hour and let your passenger pay you $250 for an hour flight, I would bet a lot of money, it would not work legally.

Thanks, but I already solved the problem.

I was in Addison last night and prior to their fireworks show, they had some air-show activity. I saw what I thought might have been a pair of Mooneys flying in formation. Was that any of our group?