00-Negative

I use a suction cup mount and mount it in the copilot windscreen because I don't have a deep enough glare shield. I don't notice it while talking off or landing despite it's obvious obstruction. I do notice it when I'm looking for traffic that I see on my ads-b display. But my success rate of spotting migs is so bad either way. I frequently take weekend trips from South Louisiana to North Arkansas. Traveling north of course it's flawless. Traveling South at heading 190 I will still get around 20-30mb/s with occasional drops. Plenty good enough to use the Windy weather app which is my go-to. I think Starlink just provided an update that allows for better signal quality by having the signal bounce from satellite to satellite. I signed up for the plan outlined in Socal flying monkey's YouTube video. -David

I'll hand deliver unmarked, untraceable US dollars. -David

Bedrug. I have a "Bedrug" made for the bed my F-250. I also have the same bedrug material pre-cut and molded for my Jeep interior flooring and sidewalls. I love this stuff. Very lightweight. Waterproof holds no odor or moisture. The edges won't unravel when trimmed, so it doesn't need binding. Comes in charcoal gray. I thought it would be a great idea to put this in place of the carpet in my Mooney. I tested it with a lighter. This stuff ignites and spreads flame like dry hay.

I saw that post briefly and marked it for future reference. He did a good job. His post is gone only a few hours later. I can only think the hall monitors got him with "burn certs, field approvals, IA approvals, logbook entries, PMA parts , owner produced parts, etc. Because ya know.... All the NTSB reports we read always mention the upholstery and whether it was a contributing factor. -David

That picture is my plane. I copied @Utah20Gflyer in the post listed below. I built a simple vacuum forming box and used 1/16 ABS to make mine. I bought the wemac vent from ebay. They are a game-changer. It directs airflow directly wherever you want and the aft vents can be directed at the pilot as well. Also, someone just uploaded a 3D print version on thingiverse a few days ago. Search Mooney.

The easy button is to get a prescription for medical oxygen. Cash price for a full tank was $15 last year and exchanges are $15 as well. I don't worry about aging tanks. Your healthcare provider should be okay with prescribing because it is medically necessary when flying at altitude and I can't really foresee any downside or liability. Health insurance or HSA should not be used for this, just pay cash. My tank is equipped with a pulse regulator which works very well. I usually exchange 2 tanks when mine get down to about 1/3 for $30. If you can't get your healthcare provider to do this, reach out to me privately. I'm not sure about prescribing medical equipment across state lines, but if I can, I'll do it for free. -David

Not nice at all redbaron1982 (basic member). But thank you for your opinion and the free tutorial. +1 for being so easily amazed. -3 for being a basic member. My post asking if this is real is highly suggestive that I did not exactly fall for it. Even a simpleton like myself was suspicious of its authenticity. I played the video on my phone while driving between workplaces, so I watched very little of the video. I am also surprised that a fake video would be created on a subject that has such a narrow following. -David

Is this real? -David

I placed my order with Lasar 4/12/2024. My part arrived 12/23/2024. -David

Navion?

I just got off the phone with Lasar and ordered another so I can sell you mine. PM me. -David

I just got off the phone with Lasar and ordered another so I can sell you mine. PM me. -David

I've never had my caps leak, and I have the fluorosilicone o-rings from Gallagher. They work well. But the pool of water that collects in the recessed cavity bothers me. If the plane sits for a day or so after a rainfall, the water will evaporate except for some that collects below the cap on top of the o-ring which will inevitably spill into my tank when I remove the caps during preflight. I did glue a rubber edge to my fuel cap cover that creates an adequate seal, I just don't have a picture of the final product. I tried several different ideas prior to what I'm using now. Everything else would get blown off of the wing... not by storm winds, but by prop wash from planes turning to park. Blue painters tape is an effective solution, but it shows up in the pictures when I'm grabbing candid pictures of my girl. -David

I made some fuel tank covers recently and tried them out this past weekend. I parked outside in north Arkansas for the weekend where we got plenty of rain. My covers stayed on and kept the water out perfectly. I used magnets that stick to the steel center post of the fuel cap. I cut 1/16" abs plastic which I heated to form a concave shape. I tested it in place with a 200mph blower. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085NP6SQY?ref=fed_asin_title -David

I am going to change my panel to a conventional layout. My current panel is original and it's awful (attached below). Wondering if you used the Lord rubber isolators or went without and what, if any, problems you've had with either :panel sagging with the mounts, or instrument damage without the mounts. Thanks. -- David

I am definitely interested. Good idea. I'll buy it from you. I don't care about paperwork, major vs minor modification, STC, 337, 8130, TCDS, NORSEE, OPP, etc. This falls under the category, "Creature Comforts" along with air vents, sun visors, and cupholders. The other category is "Do what makes sense to keep your plane in the air". I have yet to read an NTSB report that summarized the interior furnishings of the plane or even noted any modifications. I don't think anyone is verifying that the GI-275 was installed by a Garmin certified "avionics technician". It seems they spend more time verifying that the instrument was functioning as intended. I have read reports reviewing inappropriate or lack of maintenance and ineffective repairs, but nothing regarding the burn certs for the leather covering on a guy's yoke. I am ranting because I have seen great and well-intentioned ideas come up on this forum that end up vanishing because people instantly question the legality of everything. Not just here, it's worse on the Facebook groups. A guy recently posted a pic of his panel illuminated in purple by an LED light strip. Born and raised in LSU Tiger country, I thought it looked great. The Karens came out instantly. End of rant... I would much prefer a smaller footprint without a gauge. As small as possible. On a different note: I recently replaced all of my door seals after sitting in my plane waiting out some rain and watching water drip in thru both doors as well as the avionics bay.. I recently parked outdoors for a weekend event and the plane was unexpectedly rained on soaking the copilot seat. I read on this forum that slightly inflating the seal prior to closing the door can prevent this. Of course I forgot to do this. And I don't like the stress on the door and the seal when closing with partial inflation. If your controller comes to fruition, I will probably look to add a 2nd switch mounted by the baggage door so I can inflate after egress when I leave my plane uncovered outside. -David

I think it's up for bid starting at $2k with a buy-it-now for $3k.

A friend of mine had a blow-out after landing his M20J in Dauphin Island a few months ago. He rented a car and brought the entire wheel home where A&P fixed it. I flew the 2 of us, the repaired wheel, a few tools, and an Alpha Aviation low wing jack in my M20E no problem. -David

His price for shipping on that listing is $100. That's pretty steep. Also consider that the electric step conversion is only $435 and you won't ever worry about replacing the unobtainable rubber diaphragm again.

I like the gray accents. Then your interior can be any color or change colors down the road and still look like it was all planned together. - David

Careful buying used even from a reputable seller like BAS. That unique barrel-shaped bearing may be missing. I just did this a few weeks ago. Removed mine and installed a light weight strut which I read about on earlier threads. -David

@Gary Bymers

So do you think the ground personnel warning system is a bigger factor for lower rates of gear-up landings per hour flown by military pilots than regular repetitive redundant training exercises? I wonder how often the flare is used to prevent a near-miss. I'd bet that pilot gets some crap from his peers if he gets a flare popped because his gear isn't down. -David

This is what I deal with all day every day at work. That emphatic statement suggests that the etiology of our ever-more distracted and attention deficit population is somehow organic. Are some people just unfortunately born with this disease of being more distracted than others and nothing can be done about it? If so, why is this not screened or tested for prior to obtaining a license to pilot an aircraft with passengers? Seems extremely dangerous to put unfortunate "distracted persons" that will not benefit from training in positions requiring high levels of focus. It is not a disease. It is a set of behaviors, habits, and mannerisms completely controllable by the pilot or person in mind. On the contrary, I believe that we can train ourselves to focus and operate without distraction. I haven't analyzed any statistical data, but I suspect that the rate of gear-ups among military pilots is much lower than that of civilian pilots. The most glaring variables are training and consequences. Both of which are much higher among military pilots. I bought the Microkit LHS system when it was on sale around a year ago. Was maybe $800-900 or so. I installed it myself without any hiccups and what a world of difference it made mostly with night landings and landing with passengers/baggage. I fly a lot solo and make good landings in different configurations and conditions. The ground-effect characteristics and sink rate are quite different when I'm loaded down with fuel, family,. and baggage. -David

I did mine myself as well. Ceramic coats do not last very long at all on airplanes that fly often. Planes are subjected to harsh elements/UV damage every time we fly. Much more so than automobiles. I've done it all including 3 stage paint correction, ceramic, polish, glaze, wax, etc... I've used several commercial grade ceramic coatings available only to professional detailers. I basically wipe down my plane after nearly every trip with Aerocosmetics waterless wash. Takes me less than 10 minutes. I use Maxl triphene spray every couple of months on the entire plane. I don't mess with ceramic coatings anymore. My plane stays so slick, no one can put tools or parts on the wing. Everything slips off. The business structure of professional detailing has evolved to exactly what the OP described: $5k initially, $2.5k every 2 years. You will eventually need paint correction after 4-6 years or so. Doing the math, you'll pay around $25k in 12 years for a shiny airplane that will still pick up chips, nicks, scratches, and other flaws. Ceramic coating on airplanes should be measured in hours instead of time. It will last a very long time in a hangar. But I estimate the ceramic coats I've seen last around 100-120 hours flown. That's less than a year for me. Check out Maxl. https://maxl.com/products/maxeasy - David