Pinecone

Astron makes boat anchors. But they LAST. The one in my ham shack has been on for over 30 years.

They are pretty easy. A wire comes from the gauge to the inboard sender. A wire goes from the inboard sender to the outboard sender. The outboard sender is connected to ground.

A pipe wrench is designed to that the upper jaw arm pivots, so that as you apply force to the handle, the jaws grip tighter.

Maybe look at a 252 converted to Encore spec. I am at 1061 UL. That includes the built in O2 system. Oh, and I cruise at 10 GPH (175 KTAS at altitude) so the UL goes further.

I have only a sump heater, but I am hangared and have an insulated cowl cover. Also put in cowl plugs. It has worked to have oil over 80F in temps in the single digits. I put a remote reading thermometer under the cowl (through the oil door with remove before flight streamer outside) and read temps in the 80s. So I figure the whole engine is being warmed.

That really sounds like an install error. I have not seen reports of multiple servo replacements once the latest ones were installed on BeechTalk.

I wonder if it is logging from a different source or is the same data that is in the G3X log file.

I am totally against Line Up and Wait (Position and Hold for old timers ) at Uncontrolled fields. If there is a non-radio aircraft, or you miss the call, you can create a mess at a minimum and a major incident at worst.

Yes, but the final concentration is the same. You were saying you wanted to inject it into the fuel stream from the pump. Even if you dump it into an empty tank then fill, it is only in contact with the sealant, at high concentration, for a minute or two. If you are worried about that, fill the tank to 1/2, add the IPA, then top off. The fuel coming in will mix the IPA with the fuel.

Old fighter pilot saying: If you ain't cheatin', you ain't tryin'.

And if you can't seem to find it, UV dye works wonders.

The requirements to convert 252 to Encore are clear. There are two factory drawings that need to be complied with. IRRC, they are in the Downloads section here on MS. 1) Engine - Convert from -MB to -SB. This a purely an external conversion. I do not recall if the prop governor and wastegate have to be replaced or just adjusted. The difference is the -MB is 2700 RPM and 36 inches at max power. The -SB is 2600 RPM and 39 inches. 2) Airframe - you need to install the long body dual puck brakes, which requires a different gear door. The gear door is the harder to source part. But they are available. You also need to change the control balance weights. Again, they are available. When I bought my 252 in 2022, the quoted cost to convert one to Encore was around $15,000. I have posted the log entry for the conversion on mine. But for the engine, they replaced the -MB with Factory Reman -SB.

Blackstone will combine previous reports if the previous owner had it in oil analysis with them. So you can get trend info earlier. Also, the analyst will comment on numbers versus hours for short sample intervals. BTW, they have a device to pull an oil sample without draining the oil. While 10 hours is fairly short, it will not hurt anything to do a sample now.

Call PowerFlow.

I don't use the knobs on the G3X. I do baro changes on the G-5. Heading on the GMC-507. I do have to look down, but the heading numbers are down in the lower half of the screen. Unlike airliners where the knobs and readouts are both up high. I run EIS on left and PFD in middle (when split screen). I also raised my G3X as high as it would go, along with the G-5. I grouped the switches by function. Ignition and Start together. Master, Alt1, Alt2, Avionics together. Pitot Heat and Prop Heat. Forward facing lights on one row, all around lights in another row. For the TOGA button, a friend 3D printed a cup shaped guard to prevent accidental activation. The button is right where my thumb will hit it, IF I extend my thumb when advancing the throttle Yes, everyone thinks theirs is the best. I am explaining my thoughts to help others make choices that work best for them.

As long as there is fuel in the tank, I don't see it eating tank sealant in a couple of minutes. Otherwise the tank reseal guys would use it.

My shop bought it, I saw and handled it and decided to not install it. The shop owner considered installing it in his airplane, but also decided not to do so. It looks nice. But it is pretty large and Mooney panels are not.

It's easy. It just requires more time than you have. And increase in your vocabulary of swear words. Some skin off of various parts of your body. And, if you have hair, ripping some out. And that might not even be enough.

Unless you are trying to flip, I think this makes the best sense. If I apply the 6 criteria to my plane: Condition of Airframe - Excellent Power Plant - Very good, low time FRM, but not flown much over past few years. Found in pre-buy that lifters needed to be replaced. Instrument Panel - Good. Not what I wanted but flyable for many years Paint - Excellent. People think it is a fresh paint job. Fuel Tanks - Very good. No leaks, resealed, but a while ago Interior - OK. Original, carpets worn, pilot seat foam compressed. I paid a premium, but, again, I think it was worth it. And I have put a lot into it with a new interior and new panel. But with a couple of things I would like to do, but not necessary, it is pretty much the perfect plane for ME.

Or make it easier and add 2 pints/1 quart per tank. Versus measuring out 28.16 ounces. 0.568% versus 0.5%. Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.

Unless you are planning on selling it soon, it doesn't matter. What matters is it what YOU want and want to own. With what I paid for my plane and the upgrades, I can't get back what I spent, but I don't care. I am enjoying the heck of it.

As stated before, the ElectroAir switches feel flimsy. And they do not have positive detents. We got one for my plane, but there wasn't room. So my avionics guy figured he would install it in his plane. After looking it over, he decided not too do so. After he showed it to me, I agreed that I would not have wanted it in my plane.

I misread as panel mounted.

Does the G-5 log different things than the G3X?

Sit in your plane, you may find that the center of your body is not aligned with the yoke tube cutout. I mounted display to be centered on my body. This put the G-5 to the left. I like my GMC-507 to the left of the stack near the throttle. Very convenient. I put the GA button on a small tab below the panel. Perfect location for my thumb when advancing the throttle. I am not a fan of the ElectroAire ignition. Feels very cheap and cheezy. And quite large for 3 switches. I agree with the comment about putting your headset jacks below the panel.