Marc_B

I think @Pinecone has the answer. I had GTN with KFC150 and I never used Nav mode, only heading mode. If I was being vectored then used heading bug and heading mode. If flying the magenta then hold heading bug button to turn on GPSS and still use heading mode. NAV was for flying VORs.

I have aux tanks so this makes it difficult to really accurately have a reproducible known fuel amount. I go to full fuel in both the main and aux, let it sit for 15 min and it’s an inch lower in the aux. put another gallon in, wait another 15 min…put more fuel in. So I tried to do this the other day just out of curiosity and FF showed I burned 17.5 gal, but I put in 17.1…but if I waited longer I’m sure I could possibly have added more. Current K-factor was 61150. Not sure if this was just number from install? For those with Monroy aux tanks…what is the most accurate way to adjust K factor? My thought was maybe deal with sub aux tank fuel quantity and a stick measurement. Not quite sure what’s the most fuel I can add before any fuel goes into the aux from mains? Guessing 18 or so gal?

@OSUAV8TER sells them and can answer any other questions you may have. (Where I got mine)

I have the Tanis cabin heater and it was the more expensive option but seemed least likely to cause me issues. Draws air from top side blowing it out the side/forward. Small. Low wattage. I primarily got it as my cellular switch has a current limitation and if tripped the unit has to be sent off. Most mini ceramic heaters are cheaply made, have 1500w (too much) and weren’t made for aircraft. I turn on the cabin preheat at least an hour prior and it’s nice and toasty when I get there. Pricey (like anything marketed to aviation) but fits the role perfectly. I put it on floor in front of copilot seat to blow forward to avionics. Flat profile with no chance of flipping or falling over. Seems like only downside is cost.

Me either. But I guess that’s cause I’m not that fast to have been trying to do that right out the MAP gate! Honestly I think even in practice I’ve usually been either 1) flying in, or at least to, the missed approach hold, or 2) on a vector from ATC, when I’m in process of loading new destination/procedure.

I went out for a flight yesterday and realized there are three boxes I have to change for "Local Zulu offset". ha ha ha. But I have a Garmin watch and it changes the local time when it acquires GPS satellite. So when I land, I put it in run mode, GPS acquired and time is automatically adjusted. What do you think the purpose of having a Local Zulu offset is if it doesn't automatically adjust in an aircraft that is likely to cross time zones? I'll have to check out Telligence commands to see if time is accurate...I think that you can "Say ETA at destination" and it tells you the local time of arrival I think? I suspect this is an oversight from Garmin, not specifically functioning as intended. And for the Trip Planning page, I personally think that Garmin should have designed it to use ONLY Zulu times with any of these calculations and screens to remove this ambiguity.

One thing that I think is important to remember. "Direct to" vs "Activate Leg". When speaking about approaches, I get in the habit of using Activate Leg when being vectored to the final approach course. I'll only use Direct To for being directed to a IAF or IF from current position. Sometimes this is subtle, but there's a big difference here. If I'm receiving vectors to final, I'll just keep it in heading mode and in my flight plan I'll "Activate Leg" of the course that I'm being directed to (usually the leg leading to the FAF). One gotcha though, don't arm APR until you're actually cleared for the approach because I've had ATC intentionally fly me through the final approach course for sequencing...if APR was armed then it would have turned me inbound. So "Cleared for the approach" = arm APR (for me). And @donkaye is right. Loading a new approach once you're on the missed is simple, and it's the only time that Garmin allows you to have 2 approaches loaded (the one you're currently flying missed on + a new one intended to be flown). If I'm planning on flying the published hold, then I usually wait to load more stuff until I'm in the hold and suspended to fly it indefinitely. But you could do it at any point once you're on the missed approach (but not before).

I think this depends on how frequently you need it and how much you'd like to spend. The simple choice is the Aerox oxysaver cannulas that come in 2 parts, a Scott connector with a flow meter/adjuster, and the "moustache" style cannula that has a small reservoir on either side of the cannula. The reservoir allows you to use a lower flow setting and still get a full sniff of oxygen from the reservoir for better efficiency. For infrequent use (and for my backup/pax use) this is what I use. To make your oxygen supply go further between refills there are the "demand pulse systems" i.e. Mountain High O2D2 and Precise Flight X3 Demand Conserver. These units use different methods to avoid constant flow oxygen, but rather give a pulse of oxygen when you inhale. Each has it's own quirks, and neither system is compatible with the other system's equipment (i.e. choose your pulse delivery system and you have to purchase only those products) I choose the Mountain High O2D2 system and really like it. The pulse doesn't both me and keeps me aware that oxygen is actually flowing. Also I've found out recently that the Precise Flight system uses constant flow with the mask (IIRC) vs the O2D2 is still a pulse system with the mask. I've found with a Medium Mountain High mask that I can use F1 (lowest enriched setting) and have 98% oxygen saturation at FL250 (YMMV). I typically use a Mountain High boom mic for less than FL180 and I've found that around 17,500 I'm sometimes clicking to the F1 setting to do the same (with normal modes I'm usually around 93% or so). I replace batteries at annual and fly with a pulse ox in my bag and one hung on the prop knob.

@Rick Junkin I found a datasheet from Allen Bradley regarding potentiometers and the RV6NAYSD502A is just the Mil-R-94 designation equivalent. Not entirely sure if there is any difference or improvement one way or the other...but looks identical spec otherwise. Potentiometer data sheet AllenBradley.pdf

@LANCECASPER makes sense. What I'm seeing is when adjusting the trim (say from landing and hand rolling back to t/o trim) the indication moves in the right direction but not smoothly and sometimes bounces around 1-2 neighboring LED bars, or when I set t/o flaps it sometimes flutters around the bars around the t/o indication. It moves in the right directions and all LEDs light. One time at t/o trim it was 2 bars high, so I went down to full flaps and back to t/o and indication was accurate and stable. Both times visual flap deployment appeared correct. @PT20J It's not necessarily both indications simultaneously or consistently all the time. What I've read is that a bad potentiometer results in jumping of the resistance as the wiper is stroked across the range of the potentiometer. This seems like what I'm seeing with the light output. Not a big issue at this point, but just curious if this just indicates wear of the pot and suggests issues upcoming. Thanks for the help and suggestions!

@LANCECASPER I saw that post as it's one of 2 posts I could find on MS regarding trim/flaps indication issues. But wouldn't a blown fuse mean NO indication? I have indications they just jump around and bounce when adjusting. What did you see with the blown pico fuse?

Lately my trim and flap LED indications have been a little more jumpy with adjustments and it seems that the likely culprit is the potentiometer. My Mooney M20K IPC shows WA2G056S502UA, Allen Bradley 5K ohm, 10% tolerance, linear potentiometer is used for both my trim and flap indication. Curious on the typical life span for these pots and how quickly they typically go from jumpy/erratic to need for replacement. One spec sheet I saw was life expectancy 25,000 cycles...no clue what that translates into in Mooney world. Seems like replacement would be pretty simple. Also curious as I've found RV6NAYSD502A which seems like same spec different manufacturer, and LASAR website had a trim/flap potentiometer 3862C-282-502A (no clue the specs on that one)...

I checked this out this afternoon and realized that I was still on a MDT zulu offset and needed to update to MST. I guess it's always right at least half the time! But for flight I'm usually on Zulu as that's what ATC is always using so I have that shown on my Engine monitor under the elapsed flight time. But I agree that if a Garmin GPS has a "local time" display, it makes complete sense that it should automatically show the actual local time unless you're in a hangar or don't have a signal.

@ArtVandelay I don't think that was the one I had seen before but it looks pretty thorough...is this the one you were referring to? https://zeftronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Z14PS.pdf

I keep thinking I've seen a step by step electrical troubleshooting process somewhere around here, but can't seem to find what I was thinking about. check battery voltage, check bus voltage, check connections...etc. Specifically regarding VRs, there are some manufactured by International Avionics, Inc (IAI) that need to be sent to them for service/overhaul and calibration. If not IAI, they can be serviced by Don Maxwell or Consolidated Aircraft Supply. If you do have an overvoltage it may be your VR is going out. Many of these are not field adjustable, so would need to be sent in to be calibrated and serviced. Depending on your set up there may be an aftermarket upgrade available (i.e. Zeftronics), but for me with a dual alternator 28V system there wasn't any other option other than lots of money or just send it to IAI for service.

I have a robotow and it’s okay. Any snow or ice leads to an ice slick on the roller and it’s worthless. But easy to use under normal circumstances. Also can fold up if bringing in the car or plane. I hear others like the sidewinder better but robo was cheaper. certainly agree with @Schllc that a local second hand option may be best, most cost effective option if available. Best tow of all is hangar buddies to share a cold one with after Mooney is pushed in and put to bed!

I bought an ET-Wow/U-scooter GT SE. Goes about 23-25 mph max, but the wide open throttle decreases the advertised range of 27 miles. "Relatively" light weight at 29 lbs, but any of the electric bike or scooter options are kinda heavy for what they are...batteries are heavy. So for max range and light weight I think a folding self powered bike is probably the best. https://uscooters.com/ I think I got the one I have on sale and it came with a handle grip for carrying it when it's collapsed. Super easy to collapse and stick in the back of the Mooney. PS (edit): I think the Jupiter bikes also get good reviews and I have a buddy who was looking at those for his Mooney. https://www.jupiterbike.com/

Slight thread side step...how frequently is it recommended to flush and replace brake fluid for the brakes? Just when replacing pads vs every 2-3 or 5 years?

@JackM20M Call Specialized Aero in San Marcos, TX http://specializedaero.com/aircraft-parts/ lead time for Mooney is probably around 12 weeks to build one. LASAR can rebuild yours in about 6 weeks but none in stock. But I believe Specialized has a few on the shelf.

@PT20J what would recommend? LPS? triflow? or just something like silicone spray?

My oxygen door spring broke, but with the prospect of having to unrivet to replace spring the previous owner opted to use a strip of Velcro on the inside edge of the door. Since the relative wind is pushing the door closed it’s never been an issue and seems pretty secure. When the Velcro eventually loses tack very easy to clean and reapply.

I'm with @GeeBee. My nonflying friends always looked with disgust at the rental aircraft they'd crawl into (when I was renting) that had worn out interior, broken plastics, holes in the seats "but the engine is new and well maintained." But stepping into an aircraft that looks and smells like a luxury vehicle is a plus for me and has made it easier to get family to fly with me which in turn leads to me flying more as well. Certainly all things aviation come at a premium and whether it makes sense for you personally is completely an individual decision. But specifically regarding Aero Comfort, I took my Mooney down to San Antonio and let Hector do his thing and it turned out even better than I had expected. When I'm spending money I always enjoy that feeling (the "wow that's much better than I had expected" feeling), as it lingers much longer than the ouch to the wallet.

Amps zero as battery is steady and not discharging/charging...I believe it shows battery ammeter discharge rather than total load on system...I see a discharge reading when switch on but prop off, and it shows charge shortly after engine start. "H" label shown on the bar graph is showing hottest EGT and hottest CHT (values shown below bars (1294/375). This is one graph choice, but you can choose from Normalize (increased sensitivity all bars equal when normalized and then shows deviations from that over time), also digital operating mode showing each cylinder CHT/EGT numerically, and two lean modes (ROP or LOP) that you can use to show where first/last cylinder peaks and how far ROP or LOP you are. Typically I'm just in standard or normalized screen. Oil pressure for me has typically ran in the 48-50 range; from what I understand it just needs to be around there to fully close the wastegate at altitude. Normal for my engine/historically for me... At least for me I feel that it's easier to see the information I'm looking for on the MVP vs other friends JPI that I've flown with. YMMV. And certainly to each his own...I think that everyone should choose equipment they feel best meets their needs. Just wanted to throw the MVP-50 out for consideration as I've been happy with mine and have felt the support from EI is good.

+1 for the EI MVP-50. I have to say that it's much more legible than the JPI. Easy downloads. Great customer service and support. I've gone though digital fuel sender install, SureFly install, and MVP display upgrade...all required support from EI and never had an issue. Also has normalize, digital readings, lean find...

@OSUAV8TER I think someone needs your help! Post up what battery you have. It's a pretty standard connection for trickle chargers...my motorcycle chargers have the same connection. https://www.batteryminders.com/batteryminder-model-244cec2-aa-s5-24v-4-amp-concorde-aviation-battery-charger-maintainer-desulfator/