A64Pilot

You “calibrate” a thermocouple at least for the FAA by obtaining a calibration card, that shows multiple test points and how far off it is from actual at each point, really very similar to the compass calibration card that I’m sure we all have. You actually get the same type of card for the altimeter and A/S indicator too.

I think it’s a 28V thing, possibly and I’m just guessing really, but because the cells are smaller, or maybe it’s because one dead cell kills a battery and twice as many means a failure more often? Batteries in our C-210 only lasted a couple of years and it was a single battery airplane, and it’s battery was sort of in the firewall so it didn’t get cold.

Since you’re in Fl, MT is in Deland, might be worth going over to them and talking. I think our problem is sand erosion, and I’m not sure how well an MT is for that. I know they have a leading edge wear strip, hopefully Nickel and not SS, but I don’t know. I do know the owner, a little German guy named Gerd or something similar is a pain, but you won’t have to deal with him. I think the MT is the less expensive option

From what I can see it’s a problem, a big problem, a split the case to fix problem, and I’m the guy that if I split the cases, I’m overhauling ‘But as I’m looking at it on an Ipad I’ve been fooled by pictures before

I just got to thinking, a two stroke typically if pre-mix burns a fuel to oil ratio of 50 to 1. An aircraft engine burning one quart of oil an hour if burning 10 GPH of fuel is burning oil at 40 to 1, much more than a two stroke. Someone tell that to the Friends of the Earth

The formula is here, but I don’t know why they didn’t just give a number to multiply by HP for the math challenged. https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Lycoming%20Reciprocating%20engine%20Break-In%20and%20Oil%20Consumption.pdf Although here https://www.lycoming.com/content/tips-hangar you will find this answer QUESTION: At what rate of oil consumption does continued operation of the engine become a hazard? ANSWER: Generally speaking, when the oil consumption reaches one quart per hour, corrective action should be taken. However, maximum permissible for each particular engine is listed in the engine operator’s manual. Seems to me that they aren’t real worried too much about oil consumption.

Didn’t use to be subscription, I thought I might be grandfathered in but it didn’t give a log in? Anyway it seems to indicate 99c per year

That article does say no valves

1 gt for 5 hours on chrome cylinders is within spec in my opinion, keep an eye on compressions though and if you do oil analysis on chrome. If or when it begins to flake off your compression check on that cylinder will tank, you could fly for hundreds of hours and years though without a problem Downside to chrome is that they use a lot of oil

Years ago the airport at Cut Bank Montana had a junk car on the airfield, and bowling balls, if you hit the junk car with a bowling ball, your fuel was free. They of course would host events that had among other things the bowling ball drop. Eventually I think someone in the City’s administration came to realize that dropping bowling balls from airplanes just might be an issue liability wise and I heard it was cancelled. I missed by the way, I was flying a Maule and took the door off for the attempt, there was a min altitude and it was quite high, may have been 1,000 ft. It’s a lot harder than it seems I know several won’t believe this so I found a link, this is cut n pasted from there http://www.cutbankpioneerpress.com/cut_bank_pioneer_press/news/article_b7c67214-6c11-5ff4-ab70-c0bf014ee0d3.html If you wondered how a bowling ball fits into all of this fun, then you should make sure you are at the airport starting at 3 p.m. for the airplane bowling ball bombing event. For the past 10 years, not a single airplane that has chosen to drop bowling balls from the sky, has been able to hit the old car target sitting in the infield of the airport. So this year organizers decided to make it a little more worth their while. “We are going to award $500 to the first pilot who gets a direct hit on the target. A bounce hit will net the pilot $200,” said Nollkamper.

I can’t imagine someone taking a Baby along, to do the flight your required to wear an immersion suit, but with the knowledge that it’s just likely to prolong the inevitable, but a Baby along? I do have a similar Maule story though.

Top overhauls are common on Continentals. There have been issues, but usually when only one cylinder has been replaced and mechanic doesn’t see the need to remove all the baffling etc to torque the other side of the thru bolts. When all cylinders are replaced there is much less problems because ALL nuts are torqued. But you don’t turn the prop, with the jugs off. I think some used to and still may because it’s a lot easier to get the piston in with the rod fully out. If you turn the prop there is a slight chance that you may unseat a main bearing. ‘If they do them frequently there should be no issue, But I think I would use an Engine shop, never used them myself but have heard good things about Zephyr Hills.

Find someone who specializes in this, average A&P doesn’t have either the tools or knowledge. It’s not that hard, but most seem to want to take short cuts and only adjust one thing and not go through the whole procedure, but if you don’t it won’t be right. I agree it’s quite important, also helps keep the engine from overheating in a climb too. Properly adjusted the engine starts easier, runs smoother etc.

I know nothing at all about this motor, but if it’s a two stroke like the old Detroit Diesel, it has to have a blower to run. It was common on those engines to also Turbocharge them for increased power, although I’d suspect in this application it’s more to keep sea level power. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3ADetroit_Diesel_Series_71 look under role of the roots blower On edit, I’m pretty sure the roots blower could be replaced by reed valves, but the old DD was a WWII design and I don’t think reed valves existed on engines then, but if so then this engine could lose quite a bit of weight and expense by ditching the roots blower for reed valves

If I were to do it again I’d use a reducing elbow from 3/4 to 1/2 pipe. The part that goes into the tube needs to be 3/4 to fit well, but no need for that heavy of pipe for the handle. I’m no where near man enough to bend 1/2” pipe. Might even save a few bucks

Actually torquing any fastener can be argued to not make sense, because it’s really not as accurate as using crush washers or the wrench arc torque method. https://www.enginelabs.com/news/back-to-basics-torque-angle-explained-and-demonstrated/ Reason is because what your doing by torquing a faster is stretching it or compressing something, if thread pitch is known then the exact amount of stretch or compression can be known by the degrees of the arc, the further it’s turned them more a faster is stretched. A torque wrench doesn’t measure stretch just torque applied so it’s not as accurate, but it is easier and faster. So in other words the snug it, then 3/4 turn may be more precise in compressing the gasket than using a torque wrench, because among other things an oil filter in Wisconsin in February is going to take a LOT more torque to get the same compression as one in Fl in July.

If you want to torque but a torque wrench won’t fit, use a regular wrench and a fish scale. If wrench is 12” long 16 lbs on the scale that's 90 degrees from the wrench of course, 6” wrench, 32 lbs. The math is simple. https://www.norbar.com/Support/Calculators/Torque-Wrench-Extension-Formula Apparently there is an app for that https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj99O_Ykqz_AhUxkoQIHR7SDg4QFnoECA0QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fapps.apple.com%2Fus%2Fapp%2Ftorque-wrench-extension-calc%2Fid454116878&usg=AOvVaw2viTM3VZP-4f-dQ0Bn9kPI https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj99O_Ykqz_AhUxkoQIHR7SDg4QFnoECBgQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplay.google.com%2Fstore%2Fapps%2Fdetails%3Fid%3Dapp.TorqueWrenchCalculator%26hl%3Den_US%26gl%3DUS&usg=AOvVaw3iL6HxeKRzqN8gHnkCx-57

This is handled a couple of different ways by other companies, I believe EI has “smoothing” which is I believe averaging over a short time interval. Piper I was told by their Propulsion DER on their turbines have a “snap” function on their instrumentation, that is when the reading gets close to a set parameter it will snap to the set point and won’t deviate from it until there is a significant change. I flew a twin engine turbine helicopter for a number of years that had digital instrumentation, it had an averaging display, because if it didn’t then everything would be drifting constantly. Even if engine and rotor speed was digitally controlled, they are mechanical devices, speed is constantly changing some with load demand. What really bothers me is some instrumentation measures and or displays to digits well beyond its capability to accurately measure, volt meters that display to the hundredths of a volt come to mind, but they sell because people believe if they display it, they are accurate to at least that point.

Clean it again and run it up until you find it. For spot cleaning a spray bottle with isopropanol alcohol and paper towels work well. 90% alcohol evaporates pretty quick It is possible for a fuel pump to leak oil from its mounting gasket. My IO-360 Lyc any oil higher than 6 is pretty quickly blown out, so if I try to keep it at 7 my oil consumption is much higher than if I keep it at 6.

In my opinion, which is just an opinion, but if you have digital instrumentation highlighting an RPM change that you can’t feel or hear, I wouldn’t worry about it. But that’s just my opinion. ‘By chance is the min display change 20?

Since the timer apparently dims the light when it turns the light off, I think there is something wrong with the timer. I can’t imagine it’s supposed to work like that.

If you use a Tempest filter it specifically says not to use any lube at all, really felt wrong to me, but it’s worked fine. Who would have thought the manufacturer would be right? This is as far as I know for Tempest only, but a 48110-2 is a Tempest I believe?

Any significant change in engine power, if you have an engine monitor you will see something change, fuel flow, EGT’s,MP, something will change with the power. If it’s a power drop, maybe RPM will drop for a second, but will very quickly return to set RPM. ‘Next time your flying make rapid power changes of a couple inches and see what the tach does, I don’t think you will see much change, these things are pretty good. I do think that with all this digital instrumentation sometimes highlights what’s always been there, just with the old slow to react analog instruments you never saw it. Not saying that’s happening to you, but I wish I had a quarter for every time I’ve seen a digital tach alarm an overspeed because RPM went to 2710 on T/O when of course 2700 is max.

Could you hear a change in RPM? Sometimes tachs will do that but RPM isn’t changing, if it’s really surging then it’s most likely the governor. If the governor fails completely, you can still fly, but it’s like driving a car in first gear, back off to 2700 or maybe 2600 and she will fly slowly, but you will have enough thrust to keep flying.

Very often a wooden prop can tolerate the Diesel’s torque impulses