A64Pilot

They should have an onboard BMS or battery management system as Lithium has some special charging needs, and a BMS could keep charge amps within spec. A lot of should’s and could’s, But all this will be addressed in the field approval I’m sure

These surely are a LifePo4 battery and while they are lithium, they are not like Li-ion or Li-Po, they have about half the energy density, but way, way safer, you just about can’t make them burn. ‘Taking them at their word you should be able to install them under a field approval. ‘But why? What’s wrong with the Concorde? Cranking amps isn’t really that important, it’s what’s called reserve capacity that is, that’s what’s going to run all of your electronics and lower you gear when your IFR and have to fly an hour to get to an approach and you alternator quits. Surly they are at least meet the Concorde’s reserve capacity, but I would make sure before i spent the money. ‘Oh, and be sure your OK with the CG change, it wouldn’t make much sense to have to add lead ballast to offset the weight you saved from a battery to stay within CG

This one takes the cake, not as a MPG or whatever, but can you imagine? My understand that a large reason the quit was the poor engine couldn’t make enough power to keep flying one they refueled, so they were having it refuel more often and finally just quit. https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2008/march/01/endurance-test-circa-1958

I’ve sat in a single seat airplane with no autopilot for over 14 hours before, it’s no fun. Ferrying crop Dusters they held 228 gls in the wings and we also turned the chemical hopper into a ferry tank. that added another 510 gls, so 738 gls. At altitude fuel burn is about 40 gls an hour so that’s 18 hours of fuel. ‘I never did it, but many have been Ferried to Australia, the longest leg was from California to Hawaii, Drop tanks were installed for that giving well over 24 hours of fuel on board. The tanks were not droppable

If you have access to rollers you can certainly make your own, but without rollers, it’s beyond my ability. ‘I’ve seen ratchet straps used to some success, but it’s much better if the bend is there and correct.

Well that was too easy, let’s see if it takes. On edit and as an update, it may take. see screen shot

Outstanding, I’m going to try this route, because having to pay $600 per year for a private agency to not display my locations etc that’s freely provided to them by the US Government, seems a bit like black mail or extortion? How many flight tracking agencies are there, and do they all want $600 a year? You can say that not class discrimination if you want, but it sure looks like it to me.

On the turbo bikes we ran 158 Octane “Fast gas”. I’ve done some looking and I think that high an Octane isn’t possible with gasoline, so I’m not sure exactly what it was. Your fuel also cannot be Oxygen bearing fuel either if you racing in a sanctioned race, and or was often checked, it’s easily checked, I think they check specific gravity? On the Kawasaki 900/1000, you could only bore to 1200 with the stock cylinder, bigger than that and you bore through the solid aluminum and your into the fins. to go higher you needed a “big block” which was essentially a solid aluminum block. They could be purchased with your shops name cast into them if you had a min order. I dont know who the foundry was, ours said Star Cycle but of course Vance and Hines and others sold them too. ‘In 1980 or so the biggest you could go was 1327 CC, I guess 1400 was later, the pistons on the bigger motors had a flat spot on the top of the perimeter as of course the combustion chamber was still for a 900/1000, and possibly due to that they didn’t always work as well as you hoped, our fastest motor was I believe 1070 or so, but a 1200 kit worked great for a carbureted street bike. On the turbo we ran believe it or not but stock cams set to 110 lobe centers and stock valve springs with titanium valves and retainers, the lighter weight valves allowed for the stock springs, and I think we ran about 8 to 1 or so compression and ran a Fairbanks Morse magneto belt driven off the right side of the crankshaft. We ran an S&S Super carb bolted to the turbo and had to have an electric fuel pump because fuel wouldn’t drain out of the tank fast enough, it had to be pumped out or you would lean out in the run, that wasn’t as easy to figure out as you would think, jetting was done by plug checks, a new plug was run and then looked at for color, white was bad. ‘The turbo was easier to start than a stock bike and idled smoothly like a stock bike, maybe even smoother due to lower compression, it was very much a street drivable bike and didn’t get hot at all unless it was making big power, and the turbo kept it much quieter than an open drag pipe. so as you can expect we built a few street bikes This was the shop I worked at , back then it was Star Cycle, I don’t know why it changed to Star Racing, I was there in 80 and 81 https://www.dragbike.com/star-racing-george-and-jackie-bryce-build-a-small-motorcycle-speed-shop-into-a-drag-racing-institution/

Explain this dot com N number please, do you have a link? I know what we called in the military as Hollywood call signs are allowed, but thought N number must not change. ‘In other words calling your self Angel flight if your in fact an Angel flight is allowed, but I didn’t think you could transmit anything but your real N number on ADSB? I’ve confirmed anonymous mode works as in if you have it selected and your squawking 1200 ATC only sees VFR, but get assigned a squawk and that’s no longer the case. ‘Once the FAA changes registration and my LLC is displayed as the owner, I’ll get you smart guys to check and see how easy it is to put my name on it. I know it’s possible, nothing is absolute, I’d just prefer it not be easy and widely available. I want to avoid this, yesterday’s flight. Look on the bottom, where it says “purchase entire flight history” Geez how can that not be considered an invasion of privacy? https://flightaware.com/live/flight/N1141N I don't think I should be required to pay someone to not track me, how many flight tracking agencies are there? Are you supposed pay them all, I assume on a yearly basis or is it monthly?

Fixing wings or flying Ag? Ag is dirty and hours are insane, it’s usually hot and very, very soon the coolness of flying very low and yanking and banking wears off. It very quickly becomes work

IF you can get the valve out of anOxygen bottle you can visually inspect the interior with just a flashlight, but the valve used on O2 bottles has interference or pipe threads and buddy it’s in there tight. They have a special holding fixture at the hydro place to remove the valve and a long pipe to turn the valve to remove it. ‘Don’t try to return on a Commercial flight with an O2 bottle, they will confiscate it unless the valve is removed and that’s nearly impossible. Scuba tank valves are machine thread, and sealed with an O-ring and once the tank is empty are easy to remove, but this is no Scuba tank ‘If there is rust in side it can be removed by filling the tank with what looks like rocks and putting the tank on a rock tumbler, this will clean the interior to look like new. The Hydro shop can do this of you use the right shop, many sort of specialize in fire extinguishers and they may not, but the ones that specialize in Scuba tanks can and will. To ensure the tank is “Oxygen” clean usually simple green is used to remove any possible trace of oil or grease at all it’s in there with the “rocks”, even a tiny bit of oil in a high pressure O2 will explode like a bomb and or burn with unbelievable intensity, so please nothing but O2 should be put in the bottle. As an IA I disagree with the purpose of an Annual is different, many don’t understand but an Annual is an inspection, it’s not a list of maintenance items to be done like lubrication of flight controls or repacking wheel bearings. This matters in that the only part that the IA is required to do is the inspection, he or she cannot delegate that, the “work” from removing panels to packing wheel bearings can be done by someone else, but the inspection Must be done by an IA.

Leading edge dents are fixed all of the time, find someone who works on crop dusters, they are all the time denting their wings, birds, trees, even telephone poles on occasion, to say nothing of the occasional fence post.

I know you didn’t ask, but don’t forget the anti-seize, there is a special type just for plugs of course.

What that A&P should have done is to give you a list in writing listing each un-airworthy item, I’d make a copy for my files as an A&P, that way when I’m proven correct and you crash, I can show that you were advised, but your right, this isn’t the Military, I don’t believe I have the authority to “ground” your aircraft, but if it’s bad your not leaving until your provided with a list of un-airworthy conditions. ‘But anyway a pre-buy should be really a formality, by that I mean any item you find should be minor or you picked a real dog of a airplane, plus 95% or the really expensive things like for instance severe corrosion is pretty easy to find pretty quickly, before you as a buyer have sunk a whole bunch of money into the inspection. ‘It’s sort of like saying I only want a 100 inspection and not an Annual, well the only difference is an IA signs off the Annual, but he or she can put A&P after their numbers instead of IA for a 100 hr But I’ve seen on this forum that a good pre-buy typically runs 1500 -2,000, and assumption that’s labor only no parts. ‘Well for that kind of money, you should be getting an Annual is what I’m thinking. ‘I don’t know why you would have to stop and buy an airplane and then complete the Annual. ‘It’s not like I’ve bought many aircraft, I haven’t and this last one was done with a handshake between two good ole Southern boys, but we had an agreed on price prior to the inspection, and I wasn’t going to worry about nickel and dime stuff, for instance the blind encoder was bad, tires were flat spotted, little stuff like that I’ll “eat” I was only worried about the big stuff, you know like the corrosion someone just found in a wing of an aircraft they just bought that may require new wings, burnt out lightbulbs, flat spotted tires, that’s not worth getting confrontational about, I already beat him down $6,000 and that was about all I was going to get, from that point I either buy or walk, so the Annual was completed and I left with a squeak list of things that I wanted to fix, like the blind encoder.

Other than the rudder, what travel board is needed, can’t you measure flaps, ailerons and elevator with a prop protractor, or good level?

If it’s more comprehensive than an annual, then why would you not want it counted as one, reset the clock for another year? As an IA if I sign off an Annual, there are minimum performance standards that I have to meet. ‘There are none for a pre-buy, but your choice, your paying. ‘This makes as much sense as saying an engine repair meets the standards for an overhaul, but I don’t want an overhaul entered in the books, Why?

I think the wool while costing more will last much longer so in the long run it may be cheaper. You only regret spending on quality once.

1100 maybe? The cylinder studs on the old KZ and early Zuki’s were fine from memory, it took a turbo and bike running in the mid 8’s before the trans gears tried to walk over each other and pull the case bolts out. I raced about 80-82 got Married in Jan 83 so racing was out from then on.

The more load you put on an electric motor the more amps it draws, I believe the 40 amps comes from that being the max load that you can put on the motor without burning it out, it’s surely not a continuous duty motor ‘The 4200 RPM should be a no load RPM. ‘Curious, what voltage is it rated at? 12 or 14? On edit just looked at the picture, yes 40 amps gives you .20 HP, but as it’s a 12V motor and we have a 14V electrical system, it will actually give more HP at rated amps, assumption is 25 amps gives more than is needed so why wire etc for 40? CB’s work off of heat buildup of course so they can actually pass much more than rated current for short intervals. This may be an interesting read, yes it’s talking boats, but theory is the same and this is easily understandable https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/Circuit_Protection/95/Choosing_Circuit_Protection Look at the trip delay curve here, this is for a blue sea 25 amp breaker https://www.bluesea.com/products/7354/C-Series_White_Toggle_Circuit_Breaker_-_Single_Pole_25_Amp Rule of thumb is try to reset it once, but each time you reset it and it pops, it will pop at a lower amperage each time, the reason is it’s getting hotter and hotter and since heat is what trips it, it will trip faster or at lower amperage each time, plus you could overheating wiring ‘I’m surprised you got it to work, assuming it’s not broken of course.

I’d get a flash light and and an inspection mirror and discover just exactly what’s wrong. ‘My guess is that three points are in the track and one riding on top, but I think you need to know before you start applying force.

That’s interesting as the Meyers 200D is often quoted as the fastest single engine N/A GA aircraft, and I believe they are about 185 kts, so yes 190 is fast in my book

I imagine it is fast, the 250 is no slob, it was one of the airplanes on my short list. The Mooney works for us as since I’m old and retired there are only two of us, but if there were occasionally four I would have looked harder for a 250

Surely that occurred after the cam removal, i’d guess he still has it and it sat around in a shop etc and rusted. ‘However I believe how or where an aircraft is kept as well as frequency of flight has a lot to do with it, an airplane kept outside will get corrosion faster than one in a hanger and a Florida airplane will get it before an Arizona airplane. I now live in Fl and from my little bit of looking at aircraft to buy, would recommend avoiding Fl aircraft, and if its been kept on the ramp to most likely don’t even go look. I went to look at a 79J, new paint in 05 and new interior a couple of years ago, thought it sounded real good. Airplane wasn’t in my opinion even airworthy from excessive corrosion, sad to say but I think he killed it, I didn’t even bother looking close, the liner in the wheel wells actually had holes in them from corrosion. ‘School aircraft usually makeTBO or well beyond, and if you think about it, they are operated in a manner we were always told will kill engines, not properly warmed up, excessive, repeated full throttle excursion and pulled back to idle after full throttle over and over So far as checking can lobe condition, about all you can do is pull two cylinders and look. and even that’s not a guarantee, as was said, all it takes is a small defect and it will spread, once you get through the exceedingly thin hardened surface, it goes fast. ‘How will DLC protect from cam corrosion? Is it the cam, or the lifter or maybe either one that starts it?

I believe that 4th bladder at least for a J is available, I don’t know about other models. I’ll just live with the lower capacity due to cost myself.

Or from the hose on the fuel truck or tank. ‘I’ve gotten small pieces of rubber in my C-140 tanks which are aluminum, so I figure the suppliers hose is breaking down. Old bladders will break down and shed black granules, that’s what told me our C-210 bladders were about ready for replacement. It was a 76 model and I have no idea how old they were.