Buckeyechuck

De-Gauss the cage.

I got a replacement from Mcfarlane. Pull the old one and send it to them. They will make an exact replacement. Will need a 337 for your logs. Good luck. It’s a bit tight.

Congrats. Having just finished a similar project I know how satisfying it is to take a major role in such a project and be flying again.

That is amazing. Can’t be many hangers with one of those in the corner.

Is that some sort of old whittle jet engine in the background of the first photo?

I had the luxury of working for years with a guy who did NDT work in industrial facilities. All I knew up to then was he did tanks and boilers. When the hub AD came out, I was surprised to find out he was FAA certified and did all of the Net Jets fleet out of Columbus KCMH, along with a lot of other FAA work. He works now for a company named Veracity, LLC. They are heavy into aviation work. You may have someone like this in your area. With all the petrochemical in your area, some one has the right certifification to do the hub AD. Veracity had a 3 hr minimum at $100/hr. If you have others that cost could be split.

I’m in the same boat as Bob E. Have owned my Mooney for 30 years. After starting out ownership with a partner (with an A&P) and finally owning her by myself I’ve rebuilt just about everything on the airplane “with the direct supervision of several A&P’s and IA’s”. Last year my local avionics shop and I have installed two G5’s, GTN650, new audio panel, new Garmin transponder with ADSB in and out. This past year we did an extensive annual including zero time Penn Yan engine, rebuilt prop with new hub and governor, replaced every hose on the airframe, new engine and cowl flap controls and rebuilt the nose gear (Lasar) and with Dan from Lasar’s help tightened up the tail. I’m even pre-wired for the new Garmin auto pilot if they ever get to the older C’s. Now thinking about a paint job. I have way more money in ‘984 than I’ll ever get out of her, but I have total confidence in her. No I can’t justify it. Yes I’m crazy. But I know exactly what I have in my plane.

I rented tools from Lasar, when I did mine.

So I have bladders in my C. I’ve always heard, keeping full tanks will keep them healthy. So I have healthy bladders and compress my shock donuts or have healthy shock donuts and bad bladders. Can’t win.

I’ve used bicycle tape forever. Works well for me. What are you using to hold your pens to the panel. Looks really handy.

I replaced mine several years ago while troubleshooting a mag issue. I don’t think the old one has any issues. Your welcome to it if it will work in your E. Out of a 62C s/n 2018.

I was about to be p\€€£d at Garmin. I’ve upgraded the panel In my ‘62 C with 2 G5’s, and a 650 and other goodies in preparation for the autopilot. Even have everything prewired. Guess I’ll need to wait a bit longer.

Did it include the locking mechanism? Do they have that available? My down lock block doesn’t have one.

How did you manage to even get it out.

So is yours mounted above the exhaust pipe? If so, has there ever been a concern for the heat in that area?

Thanks everyone, decided to send the engine to Penn Yan and go with new Lycoming nitride cylinders. Props going to tiffin aire. New hoses, tubes and throttle, prop, mix, carb heat and cowl flap control cables. After redoing the panel last summer; 2 G5's, GTN650, GTX345, and GMA345, all I need is Garmin to finish certification of the AP for the short bodies. I'm pre wired. Still need to get an engine analyzer for the new engine. I'm gonna have a sweet little Mooney.

Anyone have experience with Superior Millennium cylinders? They're pretty, but the SB list for Superior looks a bit lengthy. Trying to decide; Superior new steel, factory new steel or rebuilt nitride for this O/H. Don’t fly as much as some of you.

Reviewed the PowerPoint download. Did not see the top down photo. Great presentation otherwise. Thanks Hank.

In response to tigers2007 question, this compression check was done hot. Multiple checks. Heard plenty of air coming out oil fill tube (rings) even though prop felt similar on all cylinders. Past compression checks were cold and always in upper 70’s. Not realistic. I questioned this so went to a different mechanic to get new eye on things. I know Lycoming SB requires hot compression check. I’ve put off things like oil filter, engine heater, engine analyzer until I overhauled. Doing all that now. Still trying to decide on engine shop.

So there is only one potential spot for the remote mount on my airplane and that is below the voltage regulator. It looks tight even there. Anyone have it in that location? Battery box is on the other side.

Past TBO about 2100 hrs. I had three chrome cylinders and one nitride. The nitride is good, the chromed are all low compression - low 60's? I was expecting them to give up sooner rather than later. I'll never have another chrome cylinder on anything. Nothing but trouble.

The engine on my ‘62 M20C has told me she’s done. Time for an overhaul. She currently still has the original oil screen and one of the things I want to do is convert from a screen to an oil filter. There isn’t much room back there. Does anyone with an older C model have this conversion? Did you use a direct mount or a remote mount? Also, any recommendations on an engine shop near Ohio? I’m thinking about Signature in Cincinnati. Also doing prop, controls, hoses, mounts, etc. Want this done right.

‘62 C, s/n 2018, N78984, just finished 2 G5’s with GAD29, GTN650 and prewired for GFC500. Waiting on approval.

Thanks for the feedback. I do have access to a rivet squeezer with dimple dies. I'm finding out there is more to this than I ever thought. For instance, if I'm dimpling the inspection plate and the holes in the wing, are there offset nut plates that conform to the dimples? How are those spec'd. I'm planning to use no. 6 screws (heads to be determined), no. 40 flathead rivets for the nut plates, which means countersinking very thin plates. I have the tool for that as well. I really appreciate this forum. I'm sure I would not be into this major work and cost without the renewed interest I've gotten from all of you.

I'm in the middle of a panel upgrade that includes two G5s. Tha means running wires in the right wing for the GMU 11 and future roll servo for a Garmin 500 autopilot once it's approved for short bodies. All of the inspection panels ahead of the spar on my '62C were riveted. I've removed 8 of them leaving only the ones where the fuel tanks (O&N bladders) are. I'd like to convert these to nut plates. Is there any reason I can't? Also since these were round head cherry rivets, any reason I can't use a round or panhead screw, it would save having to dimple the holes in the wing. My IA thought it would be a good idea to get some feedback from this group.