Buckeyechuck

Good luck.

All it took for me (right shoulder) was rolling over in bed while my arm was behind my back due to a sore back. While going thru prep to get it fixed I tore the left shoulder pulling on a breaker bar removing lawnmower blades. I’m left handed so that one became the priority. Two anchors for rotator cuff repair, grinding some bones smooth and fixing a torn labrum and the left one is 100% now. Did my own PT. You don’t know pain till you start using your fingers to “climb the wall”. Decided after that the right shoulder was not that bad. I have manual gear. I climb at 80 until ready to raise the gear. Dropping the nose while swinging the gear, makes it a non event.

Is there a procedure for setting the spacing in the cups? I suspect this is too tight in my C.

Yes I’m familiar we use dry ice blasting in the mill I have worked in to clean large motors. Also familiar with walnut shell and corn cob blasting. 6 g’s for new shafts and yokes is a bit rich for me. At this point I’m going to clean up what I have and put them back in the airplane.

We’ve just run some wires for the new roll servo (Garmin GFC 500) for my ‘62 C model. Our airplane has fuel bladders so pulling the inspection covers in those areas is not a good idea. We disconnected the nav light wire, soldered a wire to the end of it, pulled it back into the cabin, tied the new wires to it and pulled back through. It worked well.

how many AMU’s is a new one?

I’m not concerned about condition, PT’d the entire shaft. No defects.

Agree, rechrome has numerous potential drawbacks. Local shops are mostly hard chrome industrial processes. Not what is needed here. Local finish chrome shop turnaround was 10 weeks and caused numerous concerns with prep. They don’t understand what they are working on. That’s why I’m reaching out to MS. Ceramic is a spray on and bake process. Does require blasting. Some medias don’t cut metal but may not properly prep surface. I’m still investigating. I’m also looking at a DIY nickel process.

Ok, let me clarify a bit. These control rods “proper term is column in the parts book” were originally chrome plated. Most of the chrome is gone. The rods look like crap and are not as smooth in function as they should be. I am constantly lubing them. Turn around time to rechrome is a very long time. I’m considering a different process such as cerrakote, a ceramic coating which is a similar thin coating, self lubricating, and high wear. This product is advertised as routinely used for aerospace use. I wanted to get some other ideas from the forum before discussing with my A&P/IA.

I’m in the process of doing the 500 hour inspection for the yoke control shafts on our ‘62 C model. We actually removed the shafts to properly perform the penetrant test and not make a mess. While they are out we would really like to get them cleaned up. Problem is I cannot find a shop around here that can turn them around in a reasonable time. Plane is getting a new GFC500 installed. Has anyone considered other options for restoring these shafts.

Would you be interested in selling two? I have a ‘62 also and need to get mine rebuilt. I’ve talked to CIES and theirs don’t work with original factory multi gage. If I had two to rebuild I could swap during an annual and shorten the downtime.

Oops. Need to make a correction. The boot I ordered was from Aero Comfort. I ordered a doghouse reseal kit from Gee Bee. Both very good quality.

How about doing a flight from Traverse City to Oshkosh for a long day returning after dark and clipping the nav light off the wing into the fence on your rental aircraft. Luckily I only lost the nav lite. I have a few more but no cost impact like that one in my 30 + years of flying.

I got one from Gee Bee. Haven’t installed yet so can’t give a proper pirep, other than it is very good quality and not at all bulky so I’m not expecting interference issues.

Is your tach still available. My mechanical tach doesn’t agree with the new JPI. Driving me nuts.

When choosing what oil to use in your Mooney, check out what Mike Busch has to say. I’m following his recommendation (and my engine overhaul shop) by using Aeroshell straight weight and Camguard.

Curious, if you are running an engine heater and a cabin heater what would the other two channels be used for?

Hate to say but mine gets a kiss on the nose and told some Luvy mush along with thanks for taking good care of me whenever I leave her.

JPI site and Aircraft Spruce both have the ring. I have that version. Mine disagrees with factory gauge by 80 degrees. I’ve tested and they both agree in boiling water and at atmosphere. For some reason I’m not getting the heat transfer to the ring from the cylinder head. That’s why I’m looking for the bayonet holder version shown. Anyone have one out there they’re not using anymore.

This is what I was looking for. In type K .

I checked the ring against factory bayonet up to 212 (cup of boiling water with cup heater). Both agreed as much as I could tell from the poor scaleability of the factory gauge. The only thing I can tell is this is a newly overhauled engine. Maybe paint and non even surface right at the gasket seat are interrupting good heat transfer. I tried to clean the surfaces and remounted with a new crush gasket, but no improvement. The ring terminal is against the cylinder.

https://https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/2856.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1pqP56Wu8wIVZAp9Ch1gJwk2EAQYAiABEgJIJPD_BwE This is the Insight piggyback thermo couple probe. JPI used to make this in a type K. My avionics guy has installed them. A friend has one in his Bonanza. Much more accurate than the ring under the mounting boss.

I think there is some confusion with what I was looking for. I was trying to get the mounting boss for the bayonet mount where the thermocouple wires are welded to the mounting boss. I have a bayonet mount but that would replace the factory unit. Insight makes this but it is a type J. JPI used to make it in a type K but they don’t make it now.

I’ve contacted Wolf Aviation to see what they have. Thanks for the help.

I talked to them a while back about purchasing the bayonet mount probe and got absolutely nowhere. Guess I need to try again. In my opinion, it’s a no-brainer.