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Buckeyechuck

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Everything posted by Buckeyechuck

  1. Buckeyechuck
    Climb at full rich and 26” mp/2500rpm. I think the carb is set slightly rich as I get a bit of engine roughness coming downhill and under 22” mp.
  2. Buckeyechuck
    Cowl flaps are set to open 1”, might be a bit more. I never close them.
  3. Buckeyechuck
    Thank for a plan for trying to tighten up the doghouse. Originally when we reinstalled the engine we fabricated new seals for around the generator and starter and for the cowl opening from red rubber. After having the initial temperature issues I purchased a seal kit from GeeBee. We have installed a part of that kit. I will do the light leakage testing as soon as I get into the annual. I will also try to take some photos to share.
  4. Buckeyechuck
    Carb is a 10-3878-R S/N G-50-8582. Was overhauled as part of the engine rebuild.
  5. Buckeyechuck
    I’ve been away for most of three months rehabbing a relative from broken hip. Hope to head home this week - finally. Will check my carb number. Heading into my annual soon after I get home. I will share some photos of my dog house then. My oil cooler lines have been re-routed along the cowl and up the firewall in back.
  6. Buckeyechuck
    I bump up to 450-460 on no 4 for a few minutes on 4. That’s with climb speed at 130 and 26”mp/2500 rpm. #3 is about 15 degrees cooler. Cruise is 405-410 on no.4 and 385 on 3. 1 and 2 are 340 climb and 320 cruise. We reworked the doghouse in detail when installing the engine. Replaced all the grommets where plug wires penetrate the doghouse. Sealed joints with high temp RTV. used metal tape on all of the seams. Don’t know what more I could do without modifications.
  7. Buckeyechuck
    Anyone out there have a Lasar Cowl Closure for a C model they’d like to sell? Looking for anything I can to reduce back cylinder temps. 100 hours on Penn Yann rebuild and still hot on 3 and 4. Mostly #4. Lasar is out of stock and doesn’t seem to be close to restocking.
  8. Buckeyechuck
    If it’s the gascolator in the nose wheel area. Mcfarlane sells an STC’d replacement. If it’s the fuel selector in the floor the older style just has a steel ball bearing held under tension by a spring on a Teflon seat. The bearing is subject to corrosion if there has been any moisture in its past. A new ball bearing might be the fix.
  9. Buckeyechuck
    I guess I’m the lucky one. We have an avionics shop on our field. They are a Garmin shop. I was able to do the most of mechanical installation on my GFC500. They did all of the wiring, installed servos, setup, etc. I’ve done this a number of time when doing upgrades prior to, so I have an excellent relationship with them. Not only does it reduce some cost, I’m learning and I know my airplane that much better. They are just a two man shop so they appreciate the help.
  10. Buckeyechuck
    I did half of my commercial in an older Arrow 201 and the rest in the C model that I now have owned for over 20 years. I found the Arrow harder to land as you need to keep power on all the way to the ground. The Arrow flies like a rock down and dirty. I couldn’t make the runway from a mid field downwind simulated engine out. I find the C much easier to land as long as you maintain the right approach speeds. On a mid field down wind simulated engine out you have almost an eternity to get set up for landing. Mooney for me.
  11. Buckeyechuck
    Put in 2 G5’s and a GTN 650 a few years ago. Got the GFC 500 done last year. Didn’t have an autopilot prior to this. WOW, I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
  12. Buckeyechuck
    Might be interested in the engine instrument cluster if you still have it. Need to verify it fits my ‘62C. What is the part number on it?
  13. Buckeyechuck
    Thanks. Looks good. What is Key #?
  14. Buckeyechuck
    I like your series of check lists in the top photo. Where did you get them?
  15. Buckeyechuck
    My compass is mounted to the center post. I also have visors from Lasar that are mounted from the outer cage tubing.
  16. Buckeyechuck
    Wentworth has them.
  17. Buckeyechuck
    Was able to complete a weld repair on my caps. No a job for an average welder. Wentworth just responded. They have stock @ $45 per cap. Beats new at $500 and up any day.
  18. Buckeyechuck
    I tested one of my damaged caps today. Did the vinegar test, no reaction. Filed some material off and tried to light it. No response. It seems these are aluminum.
  19. Buckeyechuck
    I tested one of my damaged caps today. Did the vinegar test, no reaction. Filed some material off and tried to light it. No response. It seems these are aluminum.
  20. Buckeyechuck
    Just finishing the annual. Have the same problem. Need two. Nothing on eBay new ones $5-600. Anyone know if these are cast aluminum or magnesium? At the cost of new, I’m guessing magnesium.
  21. Buckeyechuck
    Been looking for something like this ever since having bladders installed. Thanks. This is great.
  22. Buckeyechuck
    Ok. We were hesitant to use any force. Didn’t want to damage the bladders. Forcing anything on an airplane always ends up bad.
  23. Buckeyechuck
    Anyone have any idea what type fuel sender is in the second photo? I’m trying to install overhauled senders (first photo). Can’t get the senders that are in the tanks to come out. They do not appear to be the original type. Logs say they were replaced in 1990. Had bladders installed in 2002. Senders were reused. I’m afraid I will need to open the wing and bladder to get these out.
  24. Buckeyechuck
    Strongly agree. Check your mags. Timing issue or problem with the retard breaker not working. Had the same problem with kickback on starting. Found a spark plug wire intermittently grounding out the retard breaker terminal.
  25. Buckeyechuck
    May be a stupid comment but what about the folks who make replacement windows. When we replaced our windows years ago the vent, hinges, and latch was included.
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