Buckeyechuck

How did you manage to get a wire up thru that space. I only have one removeable inspection panel in that area the rest are riveted. The first rib out has a small hole with grommet for the nav wire and a closure, looks like an elastomer or graphite, around the aeleron push pull tube. No openings otherwise.

Thanks, Just finished pulling panels on my right wing. We checked the space just outside the wheel well with a compass and did not get any deflection when moving the ailerons. I’m still trying to figure out how to get into the space in the aft section of the wing. I think I only have one access panel there.

I'm also starting a dual G5 install. Any detailed hints on how to run wire to the wing for the magnetometer? Doesn't look easy. Nav light cable runs along the front. Doesn't look like a good option. If I run aft of the spar, is there a path to the front outside of wheel well? I'd like to pre wire for the Garmin 500 AP at the same time. Currently no AP. Avionics shop is letting me help with a lot of the work so your write up is priceless. Planning toabout put the GAD29 in back.

The problem I had with starting on the right mag was intermittent. The plug wire wasn't always shorting out the retard breaker terminal. Took a while to figure it out. After re-routing the plug wire and installing rubber boots on every electrical connection under the cowling, problem solved.

Check the bottom right post on the left mag to make certain one of the plug wires isn't shorting it to ground. I had this problem after my mechanic installed new slicks on my C model. He couldn't figure it out. I did after breaking the nose off the starter and tearing up the ring gear. I have a used switch if you need one. Do not try to start if you don't have it repaired. You will have a kick back and destroy the starter if it doesn't start.

Getting that back plate out will be a huge pain in the a$$. It's riveted to the cage and everything has to be taken out switches, controls, etc. Not looking forward to that. I guess the old saying "nothing worth doing is ever easy" applies here.

So after all of the great advice in the previous posts I'm going out to the airport in the morning and talk to the avionics shop about a new GTN650, GTX345 transponder, G5 HSI with all the goodies for future AP, a panel mount CO monitor, and a PMA8000BT audio panel. Here is the current panel. I'm really concerned about how all of that will fit; especially the G5 considering there will be a second one next year wth the AP. I need to spruce up the labeling across the bottom for switches, and controls. The original royalite was really bad when we did this panel in the '90's and I made this out of Bakelite material. Any ideas for replacement?

So the problem is, if I go with the new GTN650 that almost forces a Garmin 345 transponder in order to get ads b in on the 650, or can I get that from Foreflight. I don't think I can get that from a stratus to the 650. I plan to add the second G5 with autopilot later, since it's not part of the stack. So my decision ends up 530 vs 650 and then determine what else is needed to maximize what info I can get into that box from other stuff I have or would be stupid not to add.

If I understand the terminology a GTN650 is about 2.5 AMU above the GNS530W I have sourced. I liked the bigger screen but not sure about difference in technology. For instance, will my stormscope talk to these boxes, what about ADS B in. I understand the 650 touch screen, rubber band technology, etc. really in the dark for the most part but want the biggest bang for the AMU’s.

We are blessed with a very good shop right here at RZT. Very meticulous, constantly busy which says a lot.

I'm scheduled for my ADS B install in early April. Since joining MS I now have caught the bug. I'm seriously considering a panel upgrade. I currently have an older Narco audio panel, Genave marker beacon, two King 155's, a Cessna ADF, King transponder and a boat anchor loran. Considering a Garmin GNS530W, keep the 155 that has GS, Stratus ADS B, and new combi audio panel with built in intercom and MB. Get rid of 155 no GS, ADF (shouldn't need with the 530), King transponder marker beacon, audio panel, and loran. I currently do not have an autopilot. Considering the TruTrack or Garmin maybe next year, once approved. So should I install the G5 HSI, or a GI106? Will the G5 work with the TruTrack? Do I need to include the GAD29B in the initial install or is it upgradable when I install the autopilot? What's the best choice for audio panel. I'm already putting more $$$ into this than the plane will ever be worth. Appreciate any help. Oh by the way, will probably do an I Fly GPS OR Foreflight for ADS B in.

To @spike kavalench. Don't know if this was previously communicated. There is a spinner currently on eBay. $150. Might want to check it out.

So my friend installed the Skybeacon on his Citabria. Flunked the first test flight. Heads up to all who use this option, you need to put your transponder in ALT mode for it to work. After I figured this out for him he flew a second test flight and flunked it, although he had no red marks on the report. He asked for a manual review and it came back that he had no time in "rule airspace". Rule airspace for southern Ohio is defined as flying in class B, or C or above 10,000 ft. Anyone else have this issue? I thought I recalled reading where others passed by just a routine flight at lower altitudes?

What if any are your plans for ADS-B in when using the sky beacon?

Shadrach, I'm curious, what did you soak your "sealed" bearings in and did you remove the seals?

I normally practice approaches at 23” mp and run the prop at the low end of the of the green arc. I assumed that was 2300.

With my '62C, I approach glide slope 18" and 2300, adjusting power to insure I'm at gear speed 120 mph. At intercept I drop the gear and reduce MP to 15". I can the adjust MP to stay on the glide slope and work the prop to max setting for the missed approach or landing. Work the flaps in once you break out for landing.

For replating. Look at Eastwood.com. They have numerous DIY plating systems for home.

Another option is to contact a non-destructive testing (NDT) firm. I've had significant experience working with these firms in heavy industry. There is a "Level3" inspector who lives close by that I've worked with for years. When this AD came out I happened to bring it up while he was working in our mill. Turns out he was qualified for aviation work and did all of Net Jets NDT work. When I need the inspection, he comes to the hangar. My inspector works for Team Industrial. These guys travel all the time. If you call there might be someone in your area if your lucky.

Caution. If your door latch turns hard, make certain you keep a set of vise grips or similar tool in your flight bag. If the pin in the door latch breaks you'll be stuck in your airplane. I replaced my door seal two years back. It was very difficult to close initially but is better now, although still tight.

Please include me. Based at RZT. Thanks

I’m obviously new to the forum. How do I get info to purchase.

I’m looking for a set of gear rigging tools. I have a ‘62 C model. Lasar is out of stock. There is a set on EBay for over $1000. Don’t think I’ll do that when a full set from Lasar is less than $300. Any one have an extra set they’d like to sell?