PT20J

When the actuator breaker pops it's because the motor is jammed. Agree with @N201MKTurbo, but safest thing to do is to put it on jacks and work out the issue there with no loads on the gear.

My M20J Kissling 26.64.01 rated for 100A continuous current. I think I’m good.

My inderstanding is that fuel calibration is saved with the rest of configuration parameters.

I believe Great Lakes Aero Products (GLAP) makes the lenses for Mooney and these are also the lenses that LASAR and knots2u sell, so check the price and stock everywhere for the best deal. GLAP has a service where they will trim the new lenses to fit your existing lenses if you send them the existing lenses. Skip

You could contact George Braly directly. I've always found him responsive: gwbraly@gami.com (580) 421-5645

The J is the same way, but if the armature jams it affects both sets and it's a pain to solder on the socket contacts upside down under the airplane. The new relays were only $35 each (which is pretty cheap for an airplane part which is probably why they fail as they look pretty cheap when you take them apart).

How about a large hose clamp?

I believe that Lopresti STCs are now owned by Whelen. It doesn't appear that they make the Mooney cowling any longer. But you could always contact them and ask. https://flywat.com/collections/aerodynamic-mods

If you really want a project, why not build an RV or some other kit plane? One advantage is that the parts are available.

I don’t think you can easily compare military flight time with civilian flight time. An airline pilot with 20,000 hours has spent most of that time cruising on the autopilot. A private pilot with 450 hours in one geographic area spread over ten years may not be very experienced. Military pilots are always training. Most people would consider the Blue Angels to be highly proficient but fleet pilots can apply with 1250 hours of jet time.

I’m not sure about the G1000 airplanes, but for other models I’ve looked at Mooney supplied electrical schematics for the airframe but not the avionics. So you never had avionics schematics before the new panel installation. Any competent avionics shop will supply marked up schematics from the installation manuals for a new avionics installation, and if you supply them with the schematic for your airplane, they should mark up any changes to the basic wiring. This documentation will be sufficient for any other avionics shop to maintain it or further modify it. Drawing a complete schematic for the new avionics would require several hours of work at shop rate. How many CBs would pay an extra $1000 for that, especially when it’s not really necessary to maintain the airplane?

Wow. So many options for a simple part. Were it so for some of the more complicated things!

After landing I put the flap switch in up position and the flaps did not move and the circuit breaker popped. Thereafter, I noted that the breaker would pop when the master was turned on with the flap switch in up, takeoff, or down position (the airplane is a later model with the three position flap switch). I tried wiggling the flaps because some have said that got them working again, but to no avail. I'm not saying others are wrong, but the up/down limit switches ride on the acme screw barrel of the actuator which cannot be back driven due to the wheel and worm gearing of the actuator so I have a hard time seeing how wiggling the flaps can move the switches. Be that as it may, it did nothing for my problem. Removing the belly skin and inspecting things, I noticed that the actuator had overrun past the down limit and jammed the barrel. I disconnected the barrel and manually freed it and rotated it to the up position. But the breaker still popped. I disconnected the connector that feeds the motor and the breaker still popped indicating that the problem was not the motor. I disconnected the connector that goes to the up and down relays and the breaker didn't pop, so the wiring is good. Next I removed the down relay and reconnected the connectors and the breaker did not trip indicating that the short was in the relay. I took the down relay apart and found that the armature had become dislodged and that all three contacts (C, NO, NC) were stuck together creating a short circuit. The Magnacraft relay looks like a pretty flimsy mechanical design to me. I found some new/old stock online and ordered two. Hopefully this helps someone with a similar problem.

If you tried it and it worked fine, I can't disagree. I've never tried it. I'm just quoting Lycoming about why they never approved 20 degrees timing for the dual mag engines. What was "better" in each case? Smoother, lower CHT, more power? Just curious since I haven't tried it.

The TCDS specifies 25 degrees with 20 degrees being optional. Since the SI allows changing the data plate when changing from 25 to 20, there should be no reason not to allow remarking it back to 25 since that's what it was originally per the TCDS. The dual mag engines must be 25 deg because the mag is not available with decreased impulse coupling lag angle to support 20 degrees engine to mag timing.

If you think this is bad, you should check out the Anchorage AK procedures in the Alaska Supplement. There is Elmendorf AFB to the north, then Merrill Field, then Lake Hood SPB/Lake Hood Strip, then Anchorage Intl to the south + a number of private strips. Approaching Merrill from NW, you have to fly between Pt. Noname and Pt. MacKenzie in a specific corridor between 2200' and 2500'. This corridor crosses the final for Elmendorf Rwy 6 and there will often be F-15's crossing either below 2200 on an instrument approach or above 2500' in formation for the overhead break. Anchorage was the instigator of part 93 Special Air Traffic Rules.

https://lasar.com/interior-hardware/vent-latch-917013-000 You might check other MSCs -- LASAR isn't always the cheapest.

Aviation Maintenance Technician Handbook - Powerplant Vol 1 - FAA-H-8083-32B has a description of the impulse coupling. The attached service instruction is approved data for changing the timing between 20 and 25 deg and remarking the data plate. (This SI is still active, but not on Lycoming's website because Lycoming's policy is to only post the most commonly requested service literature available on the website and this one is very old news). SI 1325 Timing Change for IO-360 Series Engines.pdf

Just remember that old airplanes may be relatively inexpensive to purchase, but the maintenance costs are more closely related to the cost of a newer airplane and insurance and hangar expenses have to be figured in.

THIS ^^^^^. Airplanes aren't like cars -- you can't legally just change parts without some sort of approved data.

https://htsllc.net/

In a pinch, you can remove the threaded pad from the top of a bottle jack which leaves a hole in the top of the piston that will fit over the conical jack point. You will need some timbers to raise the bottle jack to the appropriate height. If you are on level, solid ground it's actually very stable since you are only lifting one wheel and the other two wheels provide stability.

I had a tool welded at a local shop that is very similar except that instead of a pad, I had a short piece of metal tube welded to the solid rod. The tube fits over a the top of a bottle jack just to stabilize it and the bottle jack lifts the solid rod. I use this when I only want to raise the nose wheel. I haven't tried it on the mains but it should work.