PT20J

I doubt any seal will help with submersion. If that’s likely, you might get better protection for the bearings by switching to grease used on anphibs. https://www.groveaircraft.com/amphiblube.html Skip

Short answer: NO I'd look at a Cessna Cardinal. It has two doors, a high wing so your passenger doesn't have to climb up on the wing and then settle down into the airplane, and it sits low to the ground. It's about the easiest ingress and egress of any single engine model. Same engine as a M20J. Available fixed or retractable. Nice flying qualities. Slower, but speed isn't everything. Skip

PARXY PAR = Parabolic Aluminized Reflector XY = diameter in 1/8s of an inch. 36 = 36/8 = 4.5" 48 = 46/8 = 5.75" Skip

I think there is some confusion here The Bendix drive is the part of the starter that engages the starter gear with the engine ring gear for starting and then disengages the starter gear from the ring gear once the engine starts. When they hang up (rare in my experience) it's caused by dirt. Greasing is a bad idea as it attracts dirt and can also make the drive fail to function properly in cold temperatures. https://www.lycoming.com/content/how-clean-your-direct-drive-engine-starter 149-NL.pdf Skip

A darkish grey with white legends would be me my choice. It goes with any interior, looks good day or night, and isn’t as commonplace as basic black.

Somebody posted about this on another thread and said that Mooney used Oyster White and Oyster Grey. Skip

I've been reading Prof. Heywood's textbook Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals. Lot's of fascinating stuff in there. Combustion is a pretty complex phenomena. It's not so much that the air acts as a coolant for lean mixtures but the fact that there isn't enough fuel present to burn all the oxygen. This means that the engine is putting out less power than at richer mixtures and so there is less heat. The excess oxygen ensures that all the fuel is burned and this is what causes the increased fuel efficiency (in rich mixtures, the unburned fuel goes out the exhaust and is wasted). Skip

I ran across this video and I think he did a really good job of explaining the effect of different air/fuel ratios on engine operation.

Here’s a page from a 2900 lb J POH.

Hard to tell from the movie, but it sounds like the chatter a starter relay makes when there isn't enough battery power to run the starter. A stuck Bendix should be more of a whine. Batteries have lower capacity when cold, and if it was low to begin with it doesn't take much to run it down. Starting requires air and fuel in the proper amounts plus spark and rotation. The problem when it is cold, of course, is getting the air fuel mixture right (priming) because avgas doesn't vaporize all that well. It takes more prime when it's cold. If it cranked but didn't fire at all, it probably needed more prime. Skip

Why is that? Wondering as I will heading to the airport with my air pressure gauge in hand... (this week) Best regards, -a- I’ve noticed the same thing. My mains inflated to 30 psi will lose less than a pound in 6 months whereas my nose wheel inflated to 49 psi will lose about 4 psi in the same timeframe. Skip

I wonder how much pressure builds in the tank on a hot day with the vent covered? SB M20-229A (fuel cap AD) says no more than 1/2 psi to test for leakage. Skip

Your elf is really good at cutting circles

You don’t need the washers to retain the studs on the large (4002) Camlocs because the T pins are larger than the hole and the spring keeps the stud straight in the bore. It’s very simple to insert or remove these studs with the pliers and almost impossible without them. The small (2700) studs require a washer, but these can be assembled without a tool. Some of the 4002 Camlocs on my cowling were either too tight or too loose after I replaced all the anti-chafe tape and I replaced five to get a good fit. Most are 4 or 5 with a few 6 and one 7. The length is marked on the head. Skip

I don't think this is true. But it is moot. While not strictly true, it is a fact that the Lycomings generally have pretty good mixture distribution for two reasons: Care is taken to equalize the length of the intake tubes, and the intake air runs through the sump which warms the it. The latter actually reduces the volumetric efficiency of the engine somewhat (because it decreases the the air density) but the warmer air aids in the mixing with the fuel. The more homogeneous the mixture before the intake valve opens the better for reducing cycle-to-cycle variations in each cylinder. Some cycle-to-cycle variation is inevitable because of the chaotic nature of combustion in the cylinder which will cause some roughness, especially LOP, no matter how well the injectors are matched. The Piper Warrior had a carbureted Lycoming that would run well LOP and the procedure is in the POH. Skip

Sort of. The switch on the lower left is for the ram air annunciator and the one on the upper right is for the throttle gear warning. They both work the same way. The red circled screws attach the whole switch assembly to the cable and the yellow circled screws adjust the switch position (except you want to adjust the switch on the throttle, not on the ram air cable).

On later M20Js, the stall warning and landing gear warning are generated by an electronic module and sound through the headset and a second cabin speaker rather than a sonalert. Adjusting the microswitch located on the throttle cable just behind the console is a trial and error thing. You might want to do this yourself. It requires no special skill other than using a small screwdriver while wedged in the left footwell . Skip

i’ve never flown a E, but I believe all the models have essentially the same wing. https://m-selig.ae.illinois.edu/ads/aircraft.html Your stall description doesn’t match my experience with C and J models. However, stall behavior is part airplane and part pilot technique. In the planes I’ve flown, stalling it power off and trimmed for not less than 1.3 Vso, slow deceleration (1 knot/ sec), not pitched up excessively, ball centered, and not holding back pressure after the nose drops, yields a noticeable buffet before the stall. It may roll off one way or the other at the stall break, but not excessively. And, it recovers immediately when back pressure is released. If yours is different, I’d investigate why. Skip

They are a standard part of the wheel assemblies. Felt seals, coated with wheel bearing grease, will keep dirt out of the bearings and are usually used in machinery where minimum friction is required. They are not so great at keeping out moisture. I have no idea why Cleveland used them for wheels, but its been that way forever. I replaced mine with the new rubber style seals which are called out by note in the Mooney Illustrated Parts Catalog. They are ridiculously expense, but not as expensive as the magnesium wheels which were starting to pit in the area of the seal due to moisture entrapment. Skip

Took them off my ‘78 so I didn’t have to fool with them for maintenance. Previous owner did me the favor on my ‘94. The felt seals keep dust out of the bearings. If you also want to keep moisture out, Parker now makes automotive-style seals. I think leaving the hubcaps off makes it look more like a jet

My ‘94 has lots of STCs, some installed by the factory. Most are just due to the FAA’s silly paperwork requirements. Off the top of my head: speed brakes, EDM 700, Bose headset jacks, Brackett air filter, Rosen sun visors, Mod Works cowl stiffener, all the avionics changes over the years. The point is that you have to separate the true modifications from the routine stuff. Most “speed mod” type Mooney STCs are to bring improvements made in the J to older birds and the Js don’t need them. Skip

Maybe this will help 201hist.xls

The manual says should not must. If you connect it that way, standard practice would be to put the CB or fuse as close to the solenoid as possible. However, the manual also says that the same device works on 14 or 28 volt systems but doesn’t reset until it sees less than 10 volts. So, it’s not likely to reset an a 28 volt system no matter where you connect it, and it might reset on a 14 volt system if the battery were low even if you connect it to the solenoid. It would be interesting to put a voltmeter on the main bus and measure the voltage while cranking. Skip

As others have said, it’s an exercise in energy management. There is no way to do it by rote because there are too many variables. You have to continuously assess and adjust. That’s the whole point of the maneuver. I read somewhere that when doing his 180 dead stick landings Bob Hoover would constantly monitor his progress and verbalize “money in the bank — taking some out” as he made adjustments. Skip

^^^^ THIS. Slit the sleeve and punch mounting holes through it opposite the slit. Bolt the transducer to the bracket through the holes you punched so the sleeve is between the transducer and the bracket. Then wrap the two flaps of the sleeve around the transducer overlapping to make a nice tight wrap and secure with stainless steel cable ties. Skip