PT20J

That redline is suspicious. 1650F is a common TIT limit (turbos have close tolerances, the turbine spins at very high rpm so there is a lot of centrifugal force and the metal expands when heated. At some temperature, the turbine wheel will drag on the case). Perhaps that gauge marking is a holdover from a TIT gauge. If there is no limit listed in the Limitations section of the AFM, then there is no limitation according to the FAA (the limitations section of the AFM is the only part of that document approved by the FAA and exceeding an operating limitation listed in the AFM is a violation of FAR 91.9). In the picture posted, the Mauritz EGT gauge shows an EGT of 1552 F while the engine monitor is showing EGTs over 100 F lower. I would just ignore the Mauritz EGT gauge. Skip

Where did the redline come from? I don’t see a limitation in the M20R POH. You cannot really get the EGT hot enough to damage anything on a normally aspirated engine.

The manual trim wheel needs to be there even if there is electric trim so that you can trim it manually if the trim servo fails. It sounds like someone removed that part of the airplane before you bought it. Hopefully you won't find too many other missing parts.

My Aspen RSM was mounted on top of the tailcone in my M20J. When I replaced the Aspen with a G3X, I had a G3X external GPS antenna mounted in the same location. The location was near the front of the dorsal fin, but it is plastic and doesn't block the signal.

Yep, my bad. I must have read the .20 as .02 when I originally read it.

The updates to correct trim runaway (9.02/8.02) tightened servo monitoring parameters. The later G3X update doesn't mention the servos and doesn't include a further update to the G5 beyond 8.02. As I understand the issue, Garmin has determined that the servos built before last fall sometime have an unacceptable long-term failure rate. If the software update flagged the servos, it means that they are already on their way out.

Just put one of these on the dash and rub its belly before starting. Problem solved.

Bluetooth does’t have enough bandwidth to update charts; that’s why FS uses WiFi.

Ease of installation and security of the installed carpet. Bruce Jaegar told me it took him several attempts to figure out how to do the velcro. It required completely removing all the glue (lots of work) so that the velcro could adhere to a smooth metal surface. Also you have to get the right professional strength stuff as standard velcro adhesive softens in the heat. Snaps are a better solution, but you have to be very careful where you locate them so as to not interfere with something underneath. It’s a two person job. It you don’t use enough snaps, the carpet can bunch or wrinkle. For me, it just didn’t seem worth the work, especially since I would have wanted to remove all the old glue if the new carpet was removable. Skip

Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement. Now you have move experience. Welcome to the club!

I saved the down relay for a spare and I'm going to trash this one.

I needed to replace the gear relays in my M20J (the up relay hung up and I decided to replace both since they are 30 years old). They are bolted through the floor and so I needed to remove the carpet which as I said earlier in this thread I had glued down. It was easy to remove using a putty knife to gently separate the carpet from the floor. It didn't even damage the foam backing on the Airtex carpet. I think the problem most people have with glue is that the use too much of it. All you need is enough to tack the carpet down. I used 3M automotive headliner and fabric adhesive in a spray can and just applied a light coat. I noticed when I removed the original carpet some years back that Mooney had applied the glue sparingly.

Relays replaced. Interesting that the new relays made by SAFRAN are made in the USA. I took the old UP relay apart. The contacts appear plated with some metal. They are pitted, though not too badly. However, there was an audible squeak when the plunger was moved and it shows a shiny wear spot in one location visible in the photo. I'm pretty sure the failure was caused by the plunger sticking rather than the contacts.

Jacques Esculier got the factory ISO 9000 certified and saved Mooney with contract manufacturing back in the early ‘90s, so it worked once before.

Lycoming has three valves (in order of latest to earliest design): Externally adjustable, Tall tower, and Short tower. The short tower allows max 3 AN960-10 washers and the tall tower allows up to 9. Your picture appears to be a tall tower. You can call Lycoming tech support to confirm the P/N.

Left main, right main?

The big radial engines were notoriously difficult to start when cold. Sometimes during priming they would get flooded and sometimes they were too lean. Also, the pressure carbs didn't meter fuel accurately at cranking speeds. Then the "controlled quantity" start procedure was developed. The idea was to start from a known state of being too lean and then gradually add fuel until the mixture was right and it would start. That same theory works with hot/warm fuel injected Lycomings. Open the throttle enough so it gets some air (a lot of hot start problems come from not having the throttle open enough) and leave the mixture in ICO. Now crank and if it doesn't light off on whatever fuel remains in the injector lines, just slowly move the mixture control toward rich while cranking. It's got air; it didn't start immediately so you know it doesn't have enough fuel; advancing the mixture control adds fuel and when you get to the right amount it will start. Of course, all this assumes that your ignition system is in good condition. Skip

Yep, the prepayment doesn’t have anything to do with the kits. It’s just money on account. You can request kits separately (they are free), or you can request they send a kit on the form you send with your sample. I too found a lot of variability in the time it takes to get results, so I started writing down the tracking number and that’s how I know it took a couple of weeks for the post office to deliver it to Blackstone. Blackstone turned it around in a couple of days.

I think you are missing something important. The point of the commercial maneuvers is to demonstrate planning, judgement and mastery of flight. The maneuvers are designed to require varying airspeeds, control forces, and attitudes so that they are difficult to perform by rote method. On the power off 180, once the engine is idled, you have to plan your flight path, configuration and airspeed to arrive at your landing spot. Wind will be a big factor. Every one is a little different. The only way to develop the skill to do this consistently is with a lot a practice. You might want to put the gear down immediately so you don’t risk forgetting it. But you should experiment with the other variables until it becomes second nature. Try some without using flaps at all. Try being too high on purpose and see what effect the flaps have as well as slipping. Eventually you will become very comfortable with what the airplane can and cannot do. Skip

The last kit I set to Blackstone took 2 weeks to arrive via USPS. I’ve found them instantly responsive via telephone.

The connection to the tank float is magnetic.

See Mooney Service Bulletin SBM20-210.

The inner wing lights are taxi lights and the outer are landing lights. The recognition lights are in the wingtips.

Very nice!

It is listed in the IPC and in the back of the Service and Maintenance Manual which lists all the electrical components on the schematic. Sometimes the Service Manual is a better source than the IPC for electrical components.