spistora

If you have the Turboplus intercooler, they have power correction chart near the bottom of their webpage: http://www.turboplus.com/mooney231-intercooler.asp http://www.turboplus.com/documents/Turboplus-power-correction-table.pdf

It's just a typical un-insulated metal building with sliding doors. There are small gaps around the doors but the air exchange seems petty minimal.

My hangar isn't anything special but I do have one of these in it: https://smile.amazon.com/MIDEA-MAD30C1YWS-Portable-Dehumidifier-basements/dp/B07NRDBBH5/ref=sxin_14?asc_contentid=amzn1.osa.ad4c9e4e-d868-4f3d-b9f0-8addc39b845f.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&asc_contenttype=article&ascsubtag=amzn1.osa.ad4c9e4e-d868-4f3d-b9f0-8addc39b845f.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&creativeASIN=B07NRDBBH5&crid=12NS0AH5UT874&cv_ct_cx=portable+dehumidifier&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osa.ad4c9e4e-d868-4f3d-b9f0-8addc39b845f.ATVPDKIKX0DER.en_US&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_we=asin&cv_ct_wn=osp-single-source-earns-comm&keywords=portable+dehumidifier&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B07NRDBBH5&pd_rd_r=3b84667e-66a0-4bb9-a723-ac93f4ffc9b6&pd_rd_w=RRyuC&pd_rd_wg=wqLBO&pf_rd_p=5846ecd6-3f37-4a28-8efc-9c817c03dbe9&pf_rd_r=KHPACRDJ3JEX7Q5QQWD6&qid=1642202820&sprefix=portable+dehum%2Caps%2C134&sr=1-1-64f3a41a-73ca-403a-923c-8152c45485fe&tag=21oak-20 It was recommended by someone on the forum a year or two ago and I was initially skeptical that it would do much. It actually works really well. After a rain when water runs across the hangar floor, it will dry the concrete in about a hour. According to the display it maintains about 40-50% humidity in the hangar when it 80-90% outside.

I really like mine also and have the same thought about sensing humidity. I use one channel to switch a dehumidifier, automating that would be nice. On a side note, I had great service from Sean/Jake when I had a power surge on mine recently.

I use this on a RAM yoke mount and it works well for me. I am using a Samsung tablet very close in size to the Ipad mini's. https://www.amazon.com/Mounts-HOL-TAB29U-Unpkd-Tab-tite-Samsung/dp/B016WQEY66/ref=asc_df_B016WQEY66/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807187084&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8537952937648302602&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024320&hvtargid=pla-570327155669&psc=1

@DRL Sorry, I sold it a while back and forgot to mark it sold.

+1 for good experience with KC headsets/Terry. Happy with my refurb DC headset purchase and Terry helping with my questions.

I have some contact cleaners, I'll give them a try. I did check the solenoid. There is no voltage at the control signal terminal with the key turned and pushed. Thanks.

Looks like my switch is not working. Did anyone have one of the repair kits that they would like to get rid of or know where I can find one? I've check controller and ebay, and there doesn't appear to be any for sale a the moment.

I use this spreadsheet: https://themooneyflyer.com/Excel/AircraftStatusSheet.xlsx

Thanks @EricJ. That definitely looks like it.

I'm still troubleshooting an intermittent problem starting my 1979 M20K but suspect the starter relay/solenoid. The two part numbers (24059 and 6041H-105A) in the ipc do not look like what is installed. Can anyone identify the part in the picture? I assume I'm looking at the right part, it connects directly to the starter from the left terminal.

I also use it to switch on a dehumidifier. I'd probably put the lights on the 4th channel, the light switch is on the wrong side of the hangar.

I've been happy with mine, although I would buy a 4 channel instead of the 2 now.

My 79 POH says 2000, I was instructed in transition training to use 1800.

LOL. Yeah, long day. Monoxide, dioxide, trioxide, whatever it takes.

All good ideas listed above, especially the CO2 detector. With winter on the way, if you live where it drops below 40 deg you will want a way to warm the oil. If you don't have installed pre-heater, one of these and a couple of blankets work for me. https://www.amazon.com/Twin-Hornet-22-Airplane-Engine-Pre-Heater/dp/B00F8MCWDI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Yeah, there are a few trade-offs living here. We don't want to make it seem too attractive or everyone will move here.

I did a one pre and three post flight tests. The first showed slightly slower, the second showed slightly faster and the third was slightly slower. In the end, the average of the three post flight test showed less than a knot slower on my K. The weight and CG of each flight was similar but may of had enough difference to influence the numbers. I did float down the runway more than normal on my first landing, there is a noticeable effect.

My local shop charges me $78/case and $26 for a filter. I don't mind him making a few bucks and it's always in stock a few hundred feet from my hangar.

I found that changing the angle of the seat back makes a difference in comfort. In the right position, it can minimize the amount I have to twist my shoulders.

Everyone is different but if you have good attention to detail and build good habits, you'll be fine. I purchased my first airplane about two years ago (with about 130 hours), a M20K and I really enjoy it. I didn't rush the transition and have learned a lot here on mooneyspace. So far, so good.

I have the QT halos and Zulu 3s and use the QTs most of the time. Both reduce noise well (although differently) but the QTs are just much more comfortable.

JPI lists starting points here: https://www.jpinstruments.com/FAQ/tranducer-k-factors/ But it can vary greatly and should be marked in the sender.

@MB65EBatteryMinder is sold and shipped.