0TreeLemur

I guess the 360 in Brian Schiff's example builds in a bit of conservatism, but then he recommends multiplying lost altitude by another factor of safety of 1.5. We all want factor of safety, but in my case the propensity to land +-30 degree off straight ahead is so strongly ingrained that that is most certainly what I'll try to do. Watching Dave Keller's video, every time the stall horn sounded I felt ill. Back in my 172 days I remember flaring and having the stall horn go off for what seemed like an eternity before hearing the happy chirp of the tires. In my Mooney, there are no eternities of stall horn noise. The time from horn initiation to stall in my bird is seldom more than a couple of seconds.

Just curious- why in the Brian Schiff worksheet is the turn a 360? Looking at the Dave Keller video, he turned approx. 225 degrees to the right then about 45 to the left to line up with the runway he landed on. But, he could have landed straight ahead off-runway without doing that last turn. That last turn to the left in terms of personal safety, was not necessary. Risking an approach stall to save the insurance company some money is not my idea of a worthwhile activity. BTW- in the category of "brushes with greatness" Dave Keller's 1967 M20C was the next one off the assembly line after mine. I wonder if my engine is destined to fail in the same way...

I made a roof for my radio stack using a disposable paint tray liner. It hemmed in by the SCAT hoses on the sides, frame beneath the glare shield, sloping steel tubular frame members, and the starter vibrator box. It slopes forward about 1". There is a gap between the forward end of the rain shield and the starter vibrator.

Less likely, but it could also be a plugged fuel intake strainer in the right tank. The finger strainer attached to the fuel intake tube in many of our birds suffers from an excess of tank sealant, which partially blocks the screen. Add a little bit of debris such as flakes of sealant, corrosion, paint, etc. it isn't too hard to block the screen. The loss of pressure through the screen would show up as a reduction in fuel pressure.

Here is a separate but related thread that I've been following. @Hector recommends something similar and shows photos of his installation that I think will work much better than the "La Brea Tar Pits in a Box" solution.

Now that summer is here in full force, it is too hot to work in the hangar during waking hours. I'll report back on progress in Sept.

@Hector you da man. Thanks!

@Hector you don't by chance have photos of your a/c with the panels off so I can see how you installed the weatherstripping do you? I went to HD this evening and they don't have it, but I can get it off Amazon. I did order some of the 3M black "La Brea Tar Pits on a String" stuff. In the 90-degree F hangar today it would not release from the paper in the packaging. That stuff looks like something from the exorcist. I'm afraid to touch it for fear of having it seep into my body lick that black stuff in the X-Files. I'm going to go with your weatherstripping idea. I did fashion a plastic rain cover for my radio stack from a disposable paint tray. It wedged in nicely between the two air duct scat hoses.

@Hector, this seal looks like it has sticky tape that you stick to either (1) the aircraft or (2) the panels? I'm guessing you stick it on the aircraft between the screw holes and the avionics bay opening? What do you do in the middle where there is a gap between the panels that is covered by that smaller metal piece? Anything special?

@dcrogers11 what a ridiculously fantastic hangar !!! That is what my vision of Heaven looks like!

The dipstick on my bird has a groove about 1/8" wide and 20% deep about 3-4" above the 8 qt mark where it looks like it rubs on something inside the engine. Is this common? Replace?

Recent experience suggests that my radios would benefit from something. If you can find yours and post photos it would help me learn from that to fashion something workable. Thanks!

Reviving old thread because I'm curious if anyone has a photo or a drawing showing the plastic rain diverter that keeps leaking rainwater off the radio stack? I think that is a heck of a good idea given the amount of money that is in that pile of hot boxes, and the likelihood of a leak above. -Fred

I've got some of that stuff- we used it when we changed the door seal earlier this year. It also works on the class-B polysulfide window sealant. I'll give it a try- won't take long.

Today I bought a can of 3M Adhesive Remover, and a quart of MEK substitute. I'll try that tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up regarding steel brushes and AL. Much appreciated. SB208-B was done on this a/c in 2006, over 10 years before I bought her, so I can't speculate about that. I'm just trying to do the right thing. The existing insulation/soundproofing has lost its wherewithall. BTW- N. AZ is a great place to live if you want to avoid corrosion.

<sour grapes> I hate you guys. I did it last year with $0.00 rebate. There goes the Gobment, picking winners and losers again. </sour grapes>

I went to the hangar after work and tried mineral spirits. Negative effect. Even after soaking, and with the brass brush. It is going to take a stronger solvent. I'll look into ordering some of the 3M adhesive remover. This photo shows what I'm up against. This stuff has the character of plaster infused wallpaper paste. Dried, it is slightly gritty, like it has some kind of aggregate. In thicker regions it fractures like plaster. This was installed by a MSC in 2006. Removing it looks to be a major PITA. Oh- the black stuff is the backing of the old black foam that I removed.

How about a brass brush? I've got one of those. I think the key here is soft metal so as to not remove any of the aluminum skin?? Is stainless soft enough? Just curious. Thanks @Yetti

Let the record show that @carusoam continues to be "the man".

According to the logs, the black foam insulation that was installed in our bird by a Texas-based MSC in 2006 as part of complying with SB208-B has given up the ghost. See the photo- I scraped it a bit when removing the back seat. This black stuff has lost all mechanical strength and the foil facing is falling off. Slight friction causes little black residue spots to fall to the floor. It needs replacing. We plan using the soundproofing/insulation suggested by @Skates97 from Aircraft Spruce. The stuff in our a/c was installed with some kind of gritty contact adhesive that has the dried character similar to that of chalky dried wallpaper paste. Where it got on the tubular frame, you can break it off like chalk with some effort. Seems kind of strange to me that this stuff was used as an adhesive. Anybody know what it is and if any chemical concoction can dissolve it? I don't want to use too much mechanical effort because the darn aluminum skin is so thin. Thanks for reading.

Thanks Rich. I ordered 7'. Should do it. I appreciate you sharing your experience.

Hey Rich, can you tell me about how many lineal ft. did it take? I don't want to order too much. Thx.

When the vent and heat knobs are full forward, there is NO air flow through the center console vent in our '67 C. Good luck.

Ok, so thanks to @Awful_Charlie I've got Benchmark running in macOSX virtualbox on my Linux machine! Is there a stock set of performance values for the standard Hartzell prop that came on the model C someplace? How about O-360 engine params? It seems that to describe the airframe performance I'll need to collect some data. Guessing I need a bunch of: altitude, OAT, MP, rpm, ff, and Kias in level flight? Can't use the book values because my bird has several speed mods. Jazzed & looking forward to working on this over the weekend! Fred