0TreeLemur

O. M. G.

I've got VirtualBox. Any way to get a Mac running in a VM? My day-to-day computer and laptop both run linux. I have a Windoze box to run X-Plane, and to download/install Garmin updates. I really don't want another box laying around for just one app

The Accutrak II in our '67C is switchable between the output of two CDI's- one on the Garmin 430W, and the second on the KX155 NAV receiver. When connected to the Garmin, it follows a magenta line really well, automatically adjusting for the crosswind, it does what is needed to keep the needle centered. Given the wobbly nature of some VOR signals it is not as solid when driven by the KX155. While not approved for approaches, it is a true 1-axis enroute autopilot; when engaged all I have to do is maintain altitude with tiny trim adjustments. I'd love to add Brittain altitude hold, but it seems that parts for that system are exceedingly rare.

Landing is easy- every flight is guaranteed to land. Not dying while trying requires some skill.

Too old. Probably already sired some kids. In fact one would think it would be incredibly unlikely that a couple of guys who lived to be in their late '40's would try such a thing. It is amazing they made it to that age?? Usually this kind of thing is the domain of the early 20-somethings or late teens.

This is a great point- well said. The wing sweep angle of a surface is defined as that angle formed by the longitudinal axis of the aircraft and the 25% chord line of the surface. By that definition, both the wings and vertical stabilizer on a M20 are swept forward.

Broken link. The google machine doesn't find it. Does someone having a copy of this file upload it to our files section, if not copyrighted? THX.

One way to polish the belly...

Yep. I've gotten in the habit of punching the ignore button on the JPI EDM900 after advancing the throttle if the alarm is flashing red and I verify that it is the f.p.

$180 while-you-wait at Air Prop Specialists, Marianna, FL, in the panhandle (LA as in Lower Alabama).

Mine does the same during taxi. Often times when I throttle back as in a descent it goes above 6.0 psi to something like 6.7 to 7.0. Never more than about 7 psi. The electric fuel pump switched on as per the before landing checklist has no effect. I just clear the EDM900 alarm so I can focus on landing. Annoying. It seems like if the company could relax that redline it would be a benefit for those of us with contemporary engine monitors. When it was a tiny little gauge over by the co-pilot's left knee, a slight 1 psi overpressure wasn't a distraction like it is now.

A few weeks ago we change the door seal on our M20C. We bought the seal, sealant, and sealant remover from a company called Knots2U. The sealant remover works like a charm. It is a clear gel with a citrus odor. Not only does it remove door sealant, it also softens and allows easy removal of tank (polysulphide) sealant that was inadvertently stuck on the a/c after getting the tanks re-sealed last year. Cleans up messes from installing new windows because those also use the 2-hour polysulphide sealant. Good luck! Here is the link: https://www.knots2u.net/door-seal-adhesive-remover-1-pint/

In the 67C with the top of white arc at 88 KIAS (100mph) , the flaps really need to come up to climb at the desired Vy engine cooling speed. You can slow a Mooney down somewhat without using any flaps. Of course in the '67 with Vle = 104kt (120mph), the gear gotta come down first. Careful withdrawal of power will get you established at about 85-90 kt on final without flaps. You can put in all the flaps when the runway is made, but putting in enough trim for a good landing at that point is difficult. Getting the gear up with the J-bar above 90 KIAS is almost impossible without raising the nose for a while to slow down to about 85 KIAS. Kind of a "Mooney Cobra Maneuver" as opposed to the "Mooney Dip". Power and pitch. Nose back to slow to 85 KIAS. As J-bar goes to floor, nose starts to go down towards a more reasonable deck angle.

in 2019

Al Mooney would probably also be amazed that (1) his 1967 C is still flying, and (2) it just had its 1967 door window changed...

Having replaced the door window in N2903L "Li'l Sister" this past weekend, tonight we took her on a test flight to see if the window stayed in place. It did. The optical qualities of new "solar gray" acrylic cannot be understated compared to the old 'crazed' green acrylic. Beautiful, smooth, evening in Western Alabama!

Yes, the part that was exposed to the sun is badly crazed, while the edge is not nearly so. The edge was inflexibly clamped, while the center probably experienced a lot of vibrational motion. So, I leave it to you to say if it was UV exposure that weakened the material, vibration, or both that led to the changes in optical properties of the acrylic. Mixing and applying that polysulphide sealant reminded me of that old Cheech & Chong comedy routine featuring the two Russians: "Look Like Dog $#!%?". "Da. Smell bad too." We had a fun weekend.

The 0-30 ohm senders are fine connected to the JPI EDM900 in my a/c. They agree within 1 gallon of the dials installed in each tank, which agree within less than 1 gallon of the fuel pump. The totalizer is in the ballpark with them all. When above 5 gallons per side, I pretty much know within 1 gallon how much fuel is in my aircraft.

The end result - before and after photo. There is a new window in the door, it is just so clear compared to the old one that it seems invisible

This past week I passed my practical test and am a brand new instrument rating holder. Should I contact my insurance agent and ask if there is any effect on my rate, or just save it until I renew in Sept? Thanks.

Your recommendation worked out great! I noticed after removing the old window that if you lay one on top of the other, they appear do be different sizes relative to each other depending upon which one is on top. This means that using one to mark the hole locations in the other is not really possible. Your technique eliminated that problem while accounting for the curvature issue. I really appreciate your advice.

@cliffy a search through the Mooney M20 maint. manual PDF for the words "window"and "windshield" turned up nothing about window replacement. This weekend I'm going to replace the door window. The old one is soooo bad it must be the '67 original.

The Brittain TC electrical power supply has an inverter, a little 3-1/2" dia. and 2-1/2" tall black cylindrical object attached to the TC that does something electrical. Not sure what it does. Find that, and you'll find where the DC power cables lie. Anybody know what it does?

There is a 1977 M20C manual you can download that is considerably more detailed. A few of the V-speeds are different (Vfe is the big one), but you can edit those. I have the '67 manual in my bird, but the '77 manual is the one that is within reach.

Question: when starting my '67C, when I get to the checklist item "Open throttle 1/4" and I do that without having headphones on, I hear something click. What is making that clicking sound? It sounds like there is some kind of microswitch being actuated by the act of pushing in the throttle., or am I imagining that? I assumed it had something to do with the starting process...