0TreeLemur

Installed it yesterday. The plane plastics door was not only thicker as @milotron said, the depth dimension of the plastic parts (out of the plane of the door) was elongated for the one that I got. I wound up trimming 1/4" to 3/8" off the entire perimeter of the door. That trim resulted in reducing the distance from the door edge to the the old holes, close enough (1/4" or so) that I could lift the edge of the new panel enough to see them and drill accordingly. The only wrinkle was this. After I trimmed the perimeter, the interior edges of the door panel where also extended so that at the bottom of the window the panel at the edge was about 1/2" off the door, while at the top of the window the displacement was about 1/4". So I marked the interior edges to cut of 1/2" from the bottom of the window and 1/4" from the top, with linear interpolation between on the sides. That end result was too much material removed . I'm not gonna buy a new door panel. Now I've created a challenging trim problem to solve. I've got a 1/4" to 3/8" gap along the bottom of the window and 1/8" gap along the top. So, it seems like a good rule of thumb is this: if the central portion is holding the panel off by N/8", then cut N/16" off and try that. Grrrrr.

Borescope up the tailpipe... Mooney colonoscopy?

Thanks @Immelman, I'll be sure to take the heat gun with me.

Thanks -a-. I have used 2) for woodworking/locating dowel holes. I hadn't thought of 1)- strip mastic being useful for this. But there are an awful lot of holes... I'll dig. But, drilling new holes would be easy, and lighten the aircraft some more

As part of our interior rehab we got a new cabin door plastic panel from planeplastics. The old one was shot. Does anyone have a clever way to mark the spots to drill holes in the new panel to match the screw holes in the door? There's got to be some way to do that it seems. Or, should we just drill new ones and eliminate the chance of a screw up?

I went with the expensive door seal from knots2u.com It is a good seal. We got good seal action everywhere but about the 10-11 o'clock position on the door. I think adjustment of the top latch might be the ticket, but not sure. Everything else about the door seems great. I'll wait for your pirep before taking any action.

I'd like them in my C. How are (were) they mounted in your J? Do you think it would be possible to create a mount in my C? I have the old style windshield with the large rectangular center post. If possible, then I am interested.

I will be really interested to hear if it stops the noise from your upper door. We've got the same issue and a seal replacement didn't fix it. One difference is that our door seems to be well adjusted in terms of over-center and appropriate required pull to actuate the handle. Thanks for sharing!

What a cool document. Thanks!

I set it exactly to the numbers so that the glide ring shows the "theoretical maximum" glide distance. Then I know that airports near the ring are "iffy", and those well within are virtually assured targets.

I suggest you talk to a briefer. If there is any mention of "mountain wave" then I suggest that you don't attempt flying through passes. I'll only fly through them if regional high pressure is dominating. Large pressure gradients across the Rockies will set up some mighty powerful currents that resemble hydraulic jumps in rivers where some people like to kayak. Turbulence and lenticular clouds are common during those times, which is a visual symptom of "mountain wave" action. This time of year it is not uncommon to get high pressure over Arizona/Utah and low pressure over the eastern plains of Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico that can really cause the air to zoom over the Rockies. I suggest avoiding flying a normally aspirated aircraft through mountain passes then. PP only, not an instructor, be careful and good luck.

La Veta pass SSW of Pueblo is a decent route (pass elev. ~9500') into the Rio Grande valley towards the Alamosa VOR if it is clear and not too windy aloft. It is a scenic trip on a nice day. Alternatively, fly straight south down the front range to Glorieta pass ESE of Santa Fe, which is lower (~8000'), to the Las Vegas NM VOR as recommended by @jlunseth. That route will pretty closely follow I-25.

eBay- 100 ea for $7.95. ZORO SELECT 5625PK Retainer,Blk

I never had the opportunity to meet Dr. Bob, but I thought that his column in the MAPA Log magazine was fantastic. He offered medical advice that in my opinion was not only accurate, but courageous, by helping us pilots to know our rights and responsibilities. He will be missed.

In WX speak, CB= Cumulonimbus Buildup aka "aerial concrete" not to be flown into.

Today I went to the airport and investigated further. It turns out that they are some kind of upholstery barbed buttons. The shaft kind of looks like a ring-shank nail except they are plastic. Pull as you may, they don't come out. The only way to remove them is to cut them off. Now I need to find a source of new ones.

When I put in the LED bulb, I cleaned the area well and put a couple of small beads of silicone to keep it from vibrating/rotating. The incandescent I removed did not have a rubber seal behind it.

I need to take this cover off to replace the fabric. Before I mess something up, I thought I would ask if anybody knows how these fasteners work? What is the best way to remove them? Can they be re-used? Thanks

Thanks a bunch! Those are taller than I expected, but I get the gist. I can whip some of those up. I'm better at metal work than sewing Is there any way you could send me a scanned copy of the 337 that you filed? That would really help me with getting approval. Between you and @M20Doc I really appreciate the excellent help/advice!!!

Not if you're me. No machine, and worse yet- no sewing skill.

Does anybody know where to get colored windlace? The new interior is going to be claret & tan colored. Aircraft Spruce has any color you want as long as it is black.

Nice thread. Thanks for all the info @bradp! We're doing the same stuff to our bird now.

Clarence, ( @M20Doc) do you have any photos of this setup? I'm getting ready to start looking for shoulder belts for the back seat in my M20C and I would really like to see how you did it. Thanks. Fred

I had a Yaesu that came with my aircraft. When I had radio problems in June, I needed to rely on a handheld, which I discovered is useless in a loud Mooney without the ability to plug in the headset. Shortly after that I upgraded to a newer Yaesu that has plug-in adapter for use with a headset. I sold the old handheld for a bit over half the cost of a new one. Highly recommend you get headset capability if your a/c is loud.

AI probably needs overhauled. I've seen that kind of jumpy behavior in a MP gauge before back when I had one.