0TreeLemur

Howdy ya'll. Last year we put the Garmin GNS430W in our '67C. The seller updated the nav. data in January, 2018. I"m getting ready for my IFR check ride, and I know that I'll need to update the nav. data before then. I've never done it. It has one card that is labeled Garmin, which I assume is the terrain data. The other card is labeled Jeppesen, which I assume is the navdata. I think I'll stick with Jeppesen for now. The subscription for Jepp nav. data is $300/y, I think. Should I do that, or go for a one-time upgrade say once per year? Any thoughts or advice from MS? Thx. in advance.

@carusoam raises some great points. For instance, to avoid interference with the pilot's side yoke, we installed the DG in our plane with a 3-D printed wedge made of HDPE that allowed it to be mounted in a way to not interfere with the yoke motion. The clearance is about 3/16" from the bottom of the DG and the upward-most travel limit of the yoke. This was necessitated by the fact that we replaced the panel with one that is bent just like the original, with an approx. 8-degree bend, and we were forewarned by an older posting here on MS that this was an issue with using a bent panel. This place contains a tremendous amount of information, representing a storehouse of other people's knowledge and experience... if you can find it.

Since we're doing panel porn, I gotta show a shot of the recently redone panel of our bird. Last year we re-cut new panels for left- and right-hand sides of our 1967C. The EDM900 in portrait mode is a huge space saver, allowing you to get rid of all kinds of old analog stuff. The only thing behind the ipad is a few circuit breakers and a panel light dimmer knob.

The DME part of the 430 is definitely GPS based, not actual time-of-flight DME. So, you lose that. But, you do have marker beacons! Stopwatch too!

I'll bet a lot of us have the KX155 NAV/COM + GNS430W in VOR/OBS mode!

Cool outcome @G Miller . I'll hijack your thread with a corollary. With the engine off, I hear a buzzing noise from the certified pulse-width modulation (PWM) panel light dimmer over the speaker in my aircraft when it is active- but not when the lights are turned full up or full down. This noise is not loud enough to hear when the engine is running but I thought that was odd though. When I had the headliner down last weekend to see about the dome light switch, I discovered that the wire running to the overhead speaker is a shielded single conductor wire. They used the shield as a conductor to carry one of the speaker connections . Anyone else notice this? How hard to replace that wire? Seems like it would be hard.

I love the map @Dreamlifter. <whinge> When I read the NOTAMS and am confronted with a GPS outage notice I try to estimate where in the world they are talking about, my eyelids get droopy, and I start to imagine that it doesn't matter to my lil' ol' Mooney, then I give up. Why can't they produce a map? Maybe when they produce an announcement that they are going to disturb GPS reception- the FAA could _require_ them to produce a map? Maybe that map could then be put in the NOTAMS in the enroute navigation section of the briefing? </whinge> Compare your map against this gem: GPS 02/025 (KZDC A0032/19) ZDC NAV GPS (CSG4 GPS 19-01) (INCLUDING WAAS, GBAS, AND ADS-B) MAY NOT BE AVBL WI A 555NM RADIUS CENTERED AT 313339N0793740W (CHS173083) FL400-UNL, 509NM RADIUS AT FL250, 436NM RADIUS AT 10000FT, 388NM RADIUS AT 4000FT AGL, 338NM RADIUS AT 50FT AGL 1902101500-1902101900

Waggin' needles.

I really like this photo from the brochure posted by @MinneMooney. The thatched hut and Brahma cattle sure make it look south of the border. Looks like they were marketing to the cattle trader! My dad was one of those.

@Marauder those cost of ownership numbers are truly entertaining. I will say this: INSURANCE WAS EXPENSIVE back then. Fuel for 40c/gal? Ha! But those direct annual costs are killer. According to https://www.usinflationcalculator.com/ that $1382 annual cost from 1966 is about $10,000 today, which is about right. The hangar rent has gone up a bunch, and insurance has gotten considerably cheaper here in 2019.

Photos taken this weekend with the headliner down and dome light fixture removed. Given the shape of the end of the switch, it seems that perhaps somebody cut it off, then filed it to an irregular cone shape. It is definitely too short.

Followup- in my a/c the headliner is installed over the light fixture, so I had to take the headliner out to take a look. The switch is an integral part of the dome light fixture, which would make it a bear to replace. Can't tell why the shaft is too short, it just is. Maybe it just broke off, or someone hit their head on it and made is shorter. The fix will be to put another switch somewhere out of the way. Maybe a switch like the one that @Yetti shows above... A good, compact and robust SPST switch is called for. Anybody have any cool suggestions for fixes that exist and would be lightweight, compact, robust, and parsimonious?

I'll be in touch for shipping info once I get them off.

Sorry @TexMooney I didn't see that message. I got the new ones, honestly I only paid $15 for them on eBay. They are in pretty good condition shape. One of mine has a sprung clip and they need painted. I'll try and swap them out this weekend and ship them to you if you'll pay the shipping. Deal?

Wind noise. Our C is frightfully noisy when I lift the headfones in cruise. Can't wait to put them back on.

Hi Anthony- This is a surprisingly common problem and I'm glad you pointed it out. Last fall I spent some time typing a thoughtful reply to a five year old question... So, a while back I put a note in the suggestion box that perhaps threads older than some time (3 months, 1 year?) be given some kind of treatment to make it obvious that they are kind of stale. Either add a tag to the header **old** or give them a gray background. The older the darker the color gray. My suggestion led to nothing...

I tried this Sunday. The O360 in the C won't turn the prop at 2350 rpm with 15" of MAP. It took something like 17", which resulted in about 85-90 kt with gear down while on the final descent.

Have fun swapping out the studs @chriscalandro. I did it in the Alabama heat of July last year and damn near got heat stroke. Hope you are in a warm spot this time of year or have access to a heated hangar. Mistakes to avoid: putting studs in wrong side out, putting studs in too far.

@Marauder solved my dilemma with the drawing here: http://www.sigmatek.com/php/embed_pdf.php?doc=4B195 . The first drawing contained in that pdf shows that that the three ports distal from the central vacuum connection are all at common pressure of the instrument case. My mystery port is labeled "Alternate Vacuum Port". The port not shown on that drawing is labeled "GAGE". Some of the models on the other drawings show an electrical connector shown where my mystery port is located at the beginning of this thread. It all makes sense now. In the case of my original gyro, which is I believe and Edo-Aire predecessor to Sigma Tek, the bottom two ports were connected opposite to what they were supposed to be, but they still worked because the case is a plenum. Thanks @Marauder !! MS+1 Mystery Solved!!!

Apache...? Are you talking about the rare Mooney Apache, or as in hover & kill Apache? I assume the latter.

I've read that parts are expensive from the factory.

Facing the rear of the Sigma Tek 5000, as the drawing shows, the four ports are: VAC FILTERED AIR GAGE ????? The unlabeled port is 1/4" NPT and arrived with no plug, just a hose barb fitting so it was connected to something. On my old AI, which is the Mooney original, the connections are: VAC FILTERED AIR BRITTAIN_TC GAGE I'm thinking that this fourth port is a source of suction to drive other devices. On my a/c it seems that the three outer ports are all connected to a common plenum. I just want verification that this is the same for the Sigma Tek 5000B. That would mean that the 5000B is a slide-in replacement for my original gyro. -Fred

When I search for an installation manual, all that turns up is the drawing shown above. Does anyone know of an installation manual for the Model 5000B?

With a standard attitude gyro you can adjust for the effects of angle of attack and panel angle by adjusting the height of the dot. You can't with glass AI. You don't want to try and cruise level with the target on the horizon. It will necessarily be above the horizon 2-5 degrees.

Think about this- in the case of a regular ol' attitude gyro, you don't adjust the horizon either. You adjust how you view the relationship between the dot that represents your view in level flight. Since as -a- says there is no parallax with a glass display, there is nothing to adjust.