DualRatedFlyer

It does seem to want to turn... but just cant commit. I have done the full checkout listed in the "STECT 50 Functional Preflight Procedures" http://aerofliers.org/documents/s-tec-40-50-operating-manua.pdf I believe this is what you are referring to. I **think** I have done a full disconnect and went straight to HDG mode without switching from NAV. I will check this box for sure next time I fly. Even when HDG mode stops working, the Turn Knob continues to function normally - so I end up commanding a turn until reaching a desired heading and then moving the Turn Knob back to neutral to remain on that heading. So far the only avionics work I have had done was at Lancaster Avionics with my IFD 440 install. We are both based on the same field. Thought I would shop around the issue a bit on here to see if anyone had any ideas before contacting a shop.

Took a nice trip from Lancaster PA to Hickory NC this weekend to visit some family. I have been trying to duplicate a problem that I only see on long cross countries with my STEC 50. Usually after departing IFR from LNS I get a few vectors that I use my heading mode on the autopilot for. After a few turns I usually get direct to some way-point in the SFRA and continue on my assigned route through the SFRA. It seems like after around 1 hour of flying, my heading bug stops working. I say 1 hour, because once I start my route I am usually on Nav mode and its not readily apparent when heading mode stops working, until I switch back to it if I am given vector/heading to fly. I have turned the autopilot off and then back on with no change. I have pulled the circuit breaker and reset the unit with no joy. Sometimes at the end of my flight near my destination I will give it one more try, and it starts working again - sometimes it doesnt. It always works during the beginning of a flight. Not that it provides a lot of diagnostic help, but heres a short video of the issue after around an hour to an hour and a half of flying. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QAAWf96pTwGHegAw5 Any suggestions?

@Bartman you couldn't have made this post like a week earlier?? I just replaced mine the other week and your write-up would have definitely helped. A few things I think we did different. I removed only the front headliner in my F, and not the rear. I didnt have to drill any rivets or even remove the plenum. I simply removed the metal screws that hold the control mechanism to the metal plate that attached to the plenum and was able give myself enough room to run the new wire, attach it, and reinstall it without removing the plenum. I probably did around 4 wraps on the vent door side and then compressed them with a pair of pliers to make a nice symmetrical stack, like a bunch of dimes on top of each other. Interesting that my control mechanism didnt have the spring attached to it like yours. It looked like the cable had been replaced in the past (and stranded safety wire used and installed....) so perhaps it was lost then. Thanks for the writeup.

Thank you

Why? What is the purpose of the split?

Thanks for the detailed write-up. I am going to try and check this out this weekend. So your issue was the result of bad nylon washers at the inboard unit? Was this immediately visible. Hoping mine is on the outboard unit so I dont have to remove the interior....again...

Can you elaborate a little on the unintentional ground? My 74F left fuel tank gauge will only read 1/2 full even when topped off.

Came here for the re-safetying as well. Although not fun, I am confident I can fit some form of object/tool in that confined space to loosen/tighten the screen. My problem arises from the fact that I am 100% positive I dont posses the skills to get that son of a gun re-safetyied in there. Appreciate the videos! Perhaps a capture of the re-safety the next go-round?

This is what mine looked like (1974 M20F). I am sure you could take several sheets of foam, glue them together, and then cut a basic shape of the duct, lay fiberglass over it and fabricate a new one.

Might be better off staying in Lynchburg - home of my alma mater Liberty University. Lots of hotels, tons of great restaurants, and a nice 20 minute flight to Danville. Lynchburg airport is very nice and just a mile or so from downtown. If I remember correctly, there is no overnight fees, regardless of fuel purchases. I am staying with the in-laws in Lynchburg and making the hop down to Danville.

This should work.

Myself +2 will be there.

This was the forum that kicked it off. Expect to see you next year!

The cookout or Jaeger?

AIM 1-1-19 l. Conventional Versus GPS Navigation Data There may be slight differences between the course information portrayed on navigational charts and a GPS navigation display when flying authorized GPS instrument procedures or along an airway. All magnetic tracks defined by any conventional navigation aids are determined by the application of the station magnetic variation. In contrast, GPS RNAV systems may use an algorithm, which applies the local magnetic variation and may produce small differences in the displayed course. However, both methods of navigation should produce the same desired ground track when using approved, IFR navigation system. Should significant differences between the approach chart and the GPS avionics' application of the navigation database arise, the published approach chart, supplemented by NOTAMs, holds precedence. Due to the GPS avionics' computation of great circle courses, and the variations in magnetic variation, the bearing to the next waypoint and the course from the last waypoint (if available) may not be exactly 180° apart when long distances are involved. Variations in distances will occur since GPS distance-to-waypoint values are along-track distances (ATD) computed to the next waypoint and the DME values published on underlying procedures are slant-range distances measured to the station. This difference increases with aircraft altitude and proximity to the NAVAID.

Man I would love to come and watch this. I was just looking (drooling) at @Marauder 's interior (Jagerized) at the Memorial day cookout and it looks awesome. Its a bit too long of a trip for me at 4 hours each way When is he coming?

Would love to. Please shoot me a message next time you have one.

Awesome hosts, great food, nice to finally put faces with names!

Someone found the gear selector knob on mouser or digikey? I would love to have a link for this.

At what point does urs start dimming. Mine is on 50%ish from the first click to the halfway point then begins getting brighter.

Update Got the headliner plastic dropped in the front and it was as big a pain as I thought it would be, primarily because its intertwined with the side panels and you have to balance it on the headrests while you try and unhook the electric from the stall horn, gear horn, lights, etc. I may have heard a crack or two. With the headliner down I was able to drop the plate that the control knob is connected to. You can see in one of the photos how the cable snapped and the control end. I attempted to feed the cable back through, but its made out of flimsy stranded wire and bent before I could make it to the end. Going to try and lube up a new cable and see if I can feed it through. On a separate note, no wonder the air coming through the vent is so weak. All around the plenum there are gaping cracks. Has anyone gone through and sealed or taped these up? Did it make a big difference? Last question -- is there any reason for me to remove the rear headliner plastic as well?

Will send you a PM

I found both fists clinched after reading this...

Thanks @jazztheglass, I plan on heading up to the hanger this weekend to start taking down the panel and see how far I can get before I get stuck. If I am able to to get to it, and cant find anything at the hardware store to suffice, I will shoot you a message. What kind of wire is it, and where did you get it? Thanks

@David Herman doing the lord's work!