tmo

My "local" mechanic is a big fan of those, so a +1 I guess...

Has anyone thought about antistatic soldering mats as an alternative? They seem easier to source around here, and yes, they do come without the "compartments" at the top. Quacks like a duck, so it's a duck, right?

So the safer way to slip is to do it with the tank opposite rudder direction?

Looks good, thanks!

Or perhaps look for a different provider - perhaps one that will let you do some online familiarization with the sim and take your money. I mean, what will you possibly break on a sim, come on, you're a licensed pilot.

Thank you, Bob; that is in fact in support of mandatory vaccinations, I didn't miss anything, did I?

But of course we are :-) I thought about a closed loop system, where the air from the engine is scavenged back to the dehydrator, but figured I don't know enough about how oil and other combustion byproducts will affect the desiccant, so I decided to pass on this idea for now. But am nurturing it in the back of my head. I don't think the air leaving the dehydrator can ever be more moist than the ambient air (silica traps the water and lets it out only at temperature above the boiling point), so it won't be worse. But we're looking for "better". The reality of the matter is the dry air is only getting to parts of the engine, so this is more of a "feel good" thing than an actual solution to a corrosion problem. From my POV an option would be for the monitoring system to stop the pump when a threshold RH of outgoing air is met; I do have a relay that could work somewhere... But I do like the excuse to have to go to the hangar, too. Maybe if I could get a text reminding me to come and save the day... As a CB, I need to find one of those USB GSM modems from the previous decade that no one uses anymore, an actual GSM module probably costs around $25... Don's clear jar solution is brilliant in it's simplicity, with the caveat that if you're already there to check the color, why not change it out. In case you can't go to the hangar for whatever reason.

If only a MM / OM for a Continental TSIO-360-LB would appear out of thin air... ;-) M-0, M-8 and OM-8 they are called.

Well, most, if not all (from a statistically significant POV) the civilized world has been vaccinated for a number of diseases, including some that are believed to be extinct. Some even get vaccinated every year, against what medicine believes will be the prevalent flu strain of the year. And those who choose to travel to places off the beaten path often get additional vaccinations as part of their pre-trip preparations. So what exactly would change if the only thing between "then" and "now" in the context of COVID-19 would be a vaccine?

I'm with EB, but out of emoticons for the day ;-)

TBH, I believe the paint was not applied correctly, but that's besides the point. I do have a bottle of Autoglym Super Resin Polish - not willing to bring out any bigger guns, it's not an airworthiness item. If things don't go sideways in the next few years, its turn for a respray will come in due course.

I already have the Meguiar's Wax 2.0 and other stuff, need the C2V3 - might have to forgo the Panel Wipe, possibly find a substitute, as getting stuff from the US gets complicated. My paint (the silver) needs much more help than yours does, I'm pretty sure of that; for some reason the black is great, the silver is not. But oil change first.

Somehow I missed that the C2V3 goes on top of Meguiar's... So I need two more elixirs... :\

The question I would ask of indicating beans is what do they indicate. IOW, what is the RH of the air leaving the system by the time the indicating beads change color. All being a moot point, since my pipe is not transparent anyway, and if I open it up, I might as well change the beans out for a baked batch.

And if changing, there was a thread about LiFePO4 batteries around here not too long ago... EarthX

While I agree with the premise, the solution is quite simple - spend up to 20% of your budget on the misc stuff around the purchase (search, inspections, etc), leave 30% for misc costs you had no idea were coming, and spend ~50% of the budget on the plane... But then you're not getting a $100k plane but a $60k one at best (I saved 10% on the PPI).

I believe it has _anti scuffing_ additives, not _anti corrosion_ ones - IOW the LW-16702.

Yes, I push the dry air through the dipstick (the tube fits snugly inside) and let it vent out the breather.

But the answer is 5% = 1.6 oz per qt. - conveniently the 1 pint bottle is thus good for the 12 quarts in the box.

Hm, got me thinking - is going up the breather tube noticeably better than through the dipstick? The air ends up reaching (and not reaching) the same parts either way, right? When pushing through the breather, do you depressurize via dipstick or oil inlet (the place you pour oil in) or try to get the engine pressurized inside? You don't need sensors if you fly often

A fellow flying a TB20 has also reported suspected fuel servo icing - without flying through ice, just quite high up in below-ISA temperatures, and with low power.

Ha! I am not as creative as @GeeBee nor do I have his superior workmanship skills, but I ended up with about 3ft worth of ~4" diameter plumbing pipe filled with silica gel (kitty litter) and three fittings as used for passing wires through to junction boxes. Bottom one connected to aquarium pump, a motorcycle in-line fuel filter stuck in the top one, business end routed to the dipstick pipe on the engine. Third one is for wiring for a BME-280 sensor (temp/rh/pressure) that sits inside the piping, and another one measuring outside parameters. My observations: ~3lb of silica gel is good for ~2 weeks - but perhaps a pump with less airflow will make it last longer silica gel needs to be baked before first use (2h @250F) - my first attempt was a failure because I didn't do this, the second one gave 0% RH for a week After ~2 weeks the silica gel does continue to dry high moisture air, but the outgoing air is above ~40% RH, so while likely not corrosive, it is too close for comfort. Of course this will depend on volume of air pumped, volume of desiccant, and RH of ambient air, so my longer term goal is to have the RPi text me when outgoing air parameters are exceeded (too humid for a longer while). I also put the silica gel in plastic boxes inside the cabin and baggage compartment to keep the air a little more dry than ambient there. No measurements yet, need to run a second I2C bus from the RPi to get those. I'm pretty sure my total cost was less than $100, even including the sensors I fried ;-)

I thought there were two planes...

Alan is of course correct, but for those with a moisture problem - I've found that putting a box with silica gel (or any other similar desiccant) in the foot well will significantly improve things. I use kitty litter (make sure it is silica gel, they come in different forms) and change the "load" every 2 weeks or so; I just dry the wet one in an oven (2h at 120C/250F). One of the cheap things that won't hurt anything, even if they do nothing except make me feel good. I've alsoread about people leaving properly protected low power incandescent (traditional) light bulbs on as little space heaters in cockpits and up cowl flaps... Haven't gone there (yet?).

Not in my K it doesn't. With full flaps and power it needs a lot of forward push on the yoke to fly at what feels like a normal attitude. The C/F can of course be more tame, or I might just suck as a pilot.