tmo

And to not bring a turbo into the mix - think a dirty, clogged air filter - it will give you less MAP than a clean one would. Your engine will be making the power indicated by the gauges, but with a dirty one, perhaps not all it could. Same with closed / open ram air / power boost (which I imagine is the same thing). What really gets confusing is the basic M20K-style turbo, where touching any of the knobs messes up the relationship - but you still look at what the gauges are showing. Thankfully this forum has people that have tamed the beast, I hope to be able to follow in their footsteps without breaking too much...

Why would you consider anything than what is currently indicated? If it says 21", the engine has 21" to work with, no?

That is assuming you are willing to keep them clean and shiny ;-) Then again, if it's just a ramp decoration, gratuitous power washing with some heavy duty NAPA stuff won't take much time... That said, that Sonex doesn't have to be prohibitively expensive to run. A L39 will, by the nature of things military.

I found that drilling in reverse is gentler on plastic.

Why not get one that actually exists as opposed to CGI eye candy. Remeber the Raptor or the Pipistrel Panthera (from people who build quite successful ultralight planes - a couple at our field, and the owners love them).

IIF the antenna and cable is already WAAS, otherwise that gets to be replaced; that said, yes, from what I see, as trivial of an upgrade as can be, with a lot of "bang for buck".

My "local" mechanic is a big fan of those, so a +1 I guess...

Has anyone thought about antistatic soldering mats as an alternative? They seem easier to source around here, and yes, they do come without the "compartments" at the top. Quacks like a duck, so it's a duck, right?

So the safer way to slip is to do it with the tank opposite rudder direction?

Looks good, thanks!

Or perhaps look for a different provider - perhaps one that will let you do some online familiarization with the sim and take your money. I mean, what will you possibly break on a sim, come on, you're a licensed pilot.

Thank you, Bob; that is in fact in support of mandatory vaccinations, I didn't miss anything, did I?

But of course we are :-) I thought about a closed loop system, where the air from the engine is scavenged back to the dehydrator, but figured I don't know enough about how oil and other combustion byproducts will affect the desiccant, so I decided to pass on this idea for now. But am nurturing it in the back of my head. I don't think the air leaving the dehydrator can ever be more moist than the ambient air (silica traps the water and lets it out only at temperature above the boiling point), so it won't be worse. But we're looking for "better". The reality of the matter is the dry air is only getting to parts of the engine, so this is more of a "feel good" thing than an actual solution to a corrosion problem. From my POV an option would be for the monitoring system to stop the pump when a threshold RH of outgoing air is met; I do have a relay that could work somewhere... But I do like the excuse to have to go to the hangar, too. Maybe if I could get a text reminding me to come and save the day... As a CB, I need to find one of those USB GSM modems from the previous decade that no one uses anymore, an actual GSM module probably costs around $25... Don's clear jar solution is brilliant in it's simplicity, with the caveat that if you're already there to check the color, why not change it out. In case you can't go to the hangar for whatever reason.

If only a MM / OM for a Continental TSIO-360-LB would appear out of thin air... ;-) M-0, M-8 and OM-8 they are called.

Well, most, if not all (from a statistically significant POV) the civilized world has been vaccinated for a number of diseases, including some that are believed to be extinct. Some even get vaccinated every year, against what medicine believes will be the prevalent flu strain of the year. And those who choose to travel to places off the beaten path often get additional vaccinations as part of their pre-trip preparations. So what exactly would change if the only thing between "then" and "now" in the context of COVID-19 would be a vaccine?

I'm with EB, but out of emoticons for the day ;-)

TBH, I believe the paint was not applied correctly, but that's besides the point. I do have a bottle of Autoglym Super Resin Polish - not willing to bring out any bigger guns, it's not an airworthiness item. If things don't go sideways in the next few years, its turn for a respray will come in due course.

I already have the Meguiar's Wax 2.0 and other stuff, need the C2V3 - might have to forgo the Panel Wipe, possibly find a substitute, as getting stuff from the US gets complicated. My paint (the silver) needs much more help than yours does, I'm pretty sure of that; for some reason the black is great, the silver is not. But oil change first.

Somehow I missed that the C2V3 goes on top of Meguiar's... So I need two more elixirs... :\

The question I would ask of indicating beans is what do they indicate. IOW, what is the RH of the air leaving the system by the time the indicating beads change color. All being a moot point, since my pipe is not transparent anyway, and if I open it up, I might as well change the beans out for a baked batch.

And if changing, there was a thread about LiFePO4 batteries around here not too long ago... EarthX

While I agree with the premise, the solution is quite simple - spend up to 20% of your budget on the misc stuff around the purchase (search, inspections, etc), leave 30% for misc costs you had no idea were coming, and spend ~50% of the budget on the plane... But then you're not getting a $100k plane but a $60k one at best (I saved 10% on the PPI).

I believe it has _anti scuffing_ additives, not _anti corrosion_ ones - IOW the LW-16702.

Yes, I push the dry air through the dipstick (the tube fits snugly inside) and let it vent out the breather.

But the answer is 5% = 1.6 oz per qt. - conveniently the 1 pint bottle is thus good for the 12 quarts in the box.