TheTurtle

you want a couple of those ez out kits. I seem to break one every time I use it. I have lots of the big and small extractors around its the middle one I break a lot.

I dont see M20F model listed above? Price?

looks like a really good deal to me. my F was 35k with 1700 on the engine and no WAAS (or gps at all). Just make sure to get a good prebuy.

there is a small oval access hole at the flap pump actuator (picture above). Its just barely enough to be able to set the screw which sets the retraction speed. To actually work on the cable that belly pan needs to come off. Only like 50 screws... A video snake would get in there enough to be able to see whats not working though.

this is what the cable attaches to.

3 weeks ish. was damn fast considering its the gubment.

I have a big red no step on my flap and my buddies wife still stomped right on it. Fortunately shes a 110lb filipino woman so it didnt even budge. First thing I did when I bought the plane was fix the wing walk. I got a quart of it from spruce and it lays down really easy. Just mask it off well. Easy job and makes the plane look a ton better immediately.

Guys videos rub me the wrong way but it sure looks like a nice plane. And the word on the street is his daddy buys his planes so its probably well cared for. On the other hand. 80k with no waas or adsb? go get you a 50k F and put in what you want. (admittedly I dont know what a waas/adsb J is going for these days).

man if I was you Id get a few more clocks for the yoke Is the PC system removed? I dont see the yoke button. Interior looks nice. Do the wires coming off the 696 not drag across your legs? congrats welcome to the club!! I was wondering that as well. Doesnt look like LASARs.

is the problem that it was held together with duct tape?

i heard the same thing from AS regarding the reformulation. They actually told me a couple weeks ago it was supposed to be in on Dec 29th but the counterguy then said "but I dont believe it" so I just went with the 33. The 33 is green. I just cleaned my jack screw really well and used it. Then I decrudded the guide plates as much as possible and smashed as much 33 as I could get between the rods and the plate. I will say, though I havent flown it yet, all the controls feel like butter now. Im not sure if the PO never greased anything or what but between the triflow on all the rod ends and the grease on the guide plates its slicker than snot on the ground.

you waiting on #7? They finally get some in? I was told to switch to #33 (i think , need to look at the tube again) which meets the same milspec and #7 wasnt anywhere to be found. Been trying since I bought the plane in August to find #7.

i feel like im interrupting my own thread here.... But the annual is finally over. Swung the new compass this AM and the IA had one last look to make sure no jesus parts were falling off. All good. If it wasnt so nasty Id go fly, instead I closed up the hangar and went home for some warm chili. Its got to be at least 55deg here. brrrrr.

yea I cut the ugly wood grain cover off. Didnt unscrew it because it was imporsible to get to the nut on the back without moving wires. So I still have the hinge but no cover. I was actually talking about the hideous black asphalt textured thing that covers the whole right side IP. Left side is awful too but the right side is worse. Want to jsut have a metal IP with only the holes needed... Add it to the list jeeves.

Looks like a project to add to my list. Its really scary back there by the breakers and switches. So many ancient wires super tightly tiewrapped together. Maybe Ill wait until I get the gumption to redo that whole side of the panel. The ugly IP cover has got to go but the sheetmetal underneath looks worse with the glue and holes. After I get my CFI rating Ill have more time for the plane to be out of service. Got to get my hours now!!

I hear a lot of talk about "pull the breaker" for this and that emergency. Ive looked at my breakers every time I start up for the last 4 months and just realized mine dont seem to be pullable.. I noticed this because I had a short in my IP lights which popped the IP lights breaker. But for testing I couldnt pull that breaker, so the only way to stop the smoking of my rheostat was MASTER = off. Thats fine in the hangar. At 10000feet Id prefer to just pull the breaker and keep my radios and other stuff working. Is it normal to have these breakers that arent pullable? Can they be replaced with pullable ones? Looks like a real nightmare on the breaker bus with wires and zip ties and tiewrap.

after much waiting around and stressing I fired up 36M yesterday for the first time in almost a month. Overhauled mags and no crack in the exhaust and it sounds really good and smooth. No oil leaks other than the drips from me way overcharging the K&N airfilter... Actually seems quieter as well. Not convinced the tiny crack in exhaust was making it loud but I could have an almost normal conversation with the IA with the door shut and engine at fast idle. Mag checks went fine. Eddy current of course found no cracks in my hub. I fixed the smoking rheostat which was caused by a short in the IP lights. Got my flaps to come up in about 10 seconds vs less than 2. With all the oil and grease I put in it the controls it feels like butter on the ground. Put the rebuilt pilot valve for the PC system in. 500 hour inspection on yoke shafts and while they were out painted them really well with 10 layers of clearcoat after the base, so hopefully i never get paint rubbing off on my hands. and the cracked plastic is finally gone. Raining like hell here so I'm not doing anything today but I just need to button up the cowl and swing the new compass and shes ready to fly.

dont you have a clock on the pilots side?

i also just noticed I think the bird forehead is more squared off in the original. Ill see if I can have him fix that but I dont want to push him to much since this is all a favor and its tieing up an art guy and then an engraver.

once the machine is setup i dont think its a big deal. Ill just have him make me 4 of them. send me your address ill send you 2. You will have to cut out the triangle. Hes doing it on square stock. Im going to have him etch the outside border of the emblem as well so it matches the original.

hes going to etch this one for me for free. I can ask what he wants to do more of them. You just need copilot side right?

one of my clients has a graphics guy and he whipped this up. Ill get the vector art of it and upload it here so other people can make it. Im having him etch this on black anodized aluminum for me and then ill cut it into a triangle to fit the yoke.

I made a new plate with some acrylic and a jigsaw. Pardon the ugly holes but this stuff wants to crack like crazy. Works perfectly. I fixed my outside vent so the knob actually opens and closes it and figured I'd get the shutoffs in the cabin working again too. I guess we'll see what happens when i finally fly her again.

didnt see it on their site but I sent them an email.

got me thinking now. This doesnt have to be all that solid. I could do it with some plastic sign board I can actually cut with a box knife instead of messing with the thicker plastic that always cracks on me.