TheTurtle

thats correct. and takairs post just made me go duh.. I need somebody to fully deflect the rudders while I look at those cables. I assume one will be loose and the other tight and visa versa when the other rudder pedal is stomped.

i have a vacuum pump for AC systems. My issue is it pulls 30 inches. I need to figure out some kind of needle valve so I can bleed off and only pull 5 inches. both cables feel to loose but I havent tested it with somebody actually pushing on the rudder pedals which I assume would make one tight and one loose and the opposite with the other pedal.

yea the aileron servos have chains. the rudder servos has a cable that connects to a spot on the rudder shaft. Of course I dont have any pics of them.. Ill try to grab some tonight.

theres also a cable on the vacuum operated step just to pick nits

SO.... what pulls on the rudder shaft when the servo activates??? 2 cables... As I said I just ran new red and green tubing. Im intimately familiar with them after 2 days upside down on my head running them and obviously realize they arent pulling on anything. in the rear access where the battery is theres 2 servos. Each servo has a cable that connects it to the rudder shaft. Both those cables are really loose. The cables, wires whatever you want to call them are what pulls on the shaft that connects to the rudder. As far as whats not working... Not really anything to do with the rudder servos but during a quick ground test today the yoke only goes left when turning right. not the other direction when turning left. I just noticed the cables on the rudder servos are really loose and while im beating on this stupid system I figure I should work out that issue as well. Im going to have to vacuum test the system which Ive been dreading doing. Maybe one of the aileron servos is bad. Or maybe my TC is bad. No kidding on the aileron servos. That took me a solid 2 hours to get the hose on the copilots side connected. The other side went on fine. maybe the green hose is stiffer or something but man what a pain.

Anybody know how to set or check how much slack should be in the cables that connect the rudder servos to the the rudder? Mine both seem like they have a bunch of slack. Just replaced all the red and green hose to all the servos, taped the servos, had the pilot valve and thumb disconnect rebuilt and its still not working correctly. I checked the install manual and dont see that info anywhere.

i use a full sized air2. i cant see anything on the mini

I answered a PM about these but figured Id put it here as well. yep the plate is almost the same thickness as the original and is black aluminum. The etching is the black burned away by laser. Its maybe a few thousands thicker than the original plate. I was going to use a bandsaw to cut it out but a dremel will work. My plan is to trace the old one, tape off the face so I dont scratch it up and then cut it out. I am going to hit mine with a few coats of clear coat rattle can just to keep it from scratching longer. I also am planning on using glue or 3M 300LSE double sided transfer tape instead of the brad. Wasnt sure really where to get the brad.

oh and pm me your addresses and ill get them shipped out asap. if shipping is more than a couple bucks im billing your asses

ok guys heres the final. I just need to figure out how im going to cut them out. Im thinking a bandsaw with a lot of teeth on the blade. I have a total of 6 emblems right now. I can make a few more this week so it will go like this: If I dont screwup my cut in testing Ill have 5 left. raptor gets 2 markc gets 1 acdc gets 2 Then Ill do another run next week. Bob_belville is first on the list for that one. I should have 5 left after that. Just to reiterate Im not cutting these out for you. If you are on the list and dont think you can cut it or its more trouble than its worth to you let me know so I can move bob up the list and not have to make more. I think after this run Ill charge for them. 1 plate with 2 emblems $25. you cut it out.

2877 and im under 80mph across the fence.

on my io360 so far this has been reliable. My cfi and I got half stuck the first few times we went for gas with a quick turnaround time. Ill add my theory below the lines. I try to open the oil check hole to vent some heat out after I land for starters. cowl flaps obviously open. I never even think to point into the wind but that couldnt hurt. full throttle, full mixture. pump on for 3-5 seconds. (push cold gas through the system) full throttle, mixture cutoff (its now flooded with cold gas, so full throttle to blow it out, mixture off to not add more to the problem) crank when it starts to fire do the one handed magic trick of mixture in and throttle out at the same time. (mixture richer because it needs those three things to internally combust. throttle out because it hasnt fired and doesnt need all that gas yet. and it makes a hell of a racket at full throttle.) about half the time mine is really cranky after a hot start and stumbles and sounds like shit until I do the runup and I keep the RPMs up around 1100 because I dont want it to shutoff on me. I havent run a tank dry yet because Im worried about how much of a bitch it is to hot start. I dont want to do magic tricks with mixture and throttle while maintaining best glide to the nearest airport I bet the prop spinning at 2400RPM or more has more gumption than a starter but Im not brave enough to try it. yet.

i use a mygoflight yoke mount. its fully adjustable.

first test laser etch. decided the mooney letters need to be more "puffy" and cartoony. Hes going to change the font. Also decided the etching inside the wings isnt thick enough. going to do another test run tomorrow.

should fit. thats the style yoke it came off of. I have a 67 F. Is that the Ebay emblem you have now?

small update. I had them rework it a little to add some angle to the head. This will be laser etched onto a black peice of metal. So this is the reverse of what it will look like as far as black/metal. Going to make a run tomorrow.

its a little dirty back there. Just got out of annual and my IA didnt say anything about it though. Theres a big hole where the step goes out so its kind of exposed to whatever. She lives in a hangar now but was tied down outside at Chino beside the cow farms for a few years.

feeling kind of dumb. Was going to fiddle with my non working parking brake this weekend. I dont ever use it but figured it would be something to tinker with. Come to find out if I push on the brakes and then set the parking brake it works fine.... DUUUuuuuhhh. To be fair I dont push my brakes in my car to set the parking brake... Is that the way most hydraulic airplane parking brakes work? Now im wondering if all those cessna parking brakes actually worked as well.

the diagram in the service manual sucks but Brittian sent me a better install PDF that has it pretty good.

how hard was it to fish that hose through? Were does the green and red start? Its not green and red coming off the TC.

Got my pilot valve and thumb disconnect for the PC system overhauled. Plane will level it self turning one direction but not the other. Pulled the hose off the back of the TC and one wouldnt hold a vacuum. Actually I could just suck and suck and it wouldnt even create a vacuum. Was about to take the wing inspection plates off and start digging around the servers and decided the rear inspection panel was easier so Ill start there. Found this mess. Im guessing the green hose had cracked at some point. The PO then decided to use that hose as conduit to run some wire (i think tponder). I took it to a well named shop to have a new tponder installed. THey pulled the new wire through the same "conduit" and gooped it up with silicon. I only say they must have done the silicon and wire because its really clean and new looking and I think the wire is labeled transponder where it goes into the fused wire. So I guess my options now are to just leave that green hose as conduit and run a new hose from where ever it Ts at the wing. Or go crazy and pull the tponder wire back through, use real conduit or the correct wire according to my IA and then additionally run another hose for the servo. At this point Im not sure if I should be disappointed the avionics shop didnt say anything or mention it was weird. On the other hand I was beating them down on price and doing as much owner assist as posssible so I dont want to fault them to much. anybody else seen any whackyness like this? My IA told me to check the Garmin 345 install manual and see if it needs a direct to battery connection. Shouldnt only a clock be run straight to the battery. anything else should go through the avionics switch? No clock on the 345 as far as I remember. And the tponder doesnt come on until the avionics master comes on so not sure what it needs constant power for.

the panel forward of that one. the release cable is on the pump. The indicator cable is on the actuator (its called the hydraulic cylinder in the service manual..

ooooh thats a beauty right there. J one piece side windows as well. has waas, interior is nice. 3 blade prop. Obviously well inside your budget. I'd go look at it. You will still need ADSB out it looks like so you can beat him a little on the price. Other than that it looks like a plane that has all the wants and needs. autopilot, speed mods etc. Well there will always be more wants take everything I say with a grain of salt, I was stretching to buy my 35k 67 F and after dumping another 10k in it in the last 6 months my wife is giving me side eye

My tach and MP steam gauges seem to be fairly inaccurate. My GEMIII seems to be pretty close on the tach but the MP on it is off as well. ATIS and my altimeter show pressure as 30.11. With engine off my steam gauge shows 28ish inches. My GEMII shows 30.0 I bought one of those handheld laser tachs and here are my comparisons. GEM TACH TACH TESTER 992 1070 994 1324 1500 1322 1763 1900 1559 2064 2200 2056 In practice I dont think I care about the MP not being accurate. I fly by MAP numbers only compared to my own plane. eg I climb at 25inches. If that 25inch im seeing is actually 25.5inches it doesnt really matter to me. I decend at 16inches. If what I see as 16inches is actually 15.5 I dont really care. The "number" is the one that works for my plane and I dont see it as an issue of safety. Since my GEMIII tach is fairly accurate I feel safe that I am staying out of the redzone of 2100-2350RPM. However If I was going by the steam gauge I could have been cruising in the red without knowing it. I dont really have a question... Just showing some data for the group. I do sort of wonder how a tach can be inaccurate as its just a spinning cable. My new (to me) tach that came from another mooney seems to have the same inaccuracy as my old one. But at least the new one has a working tach time. I keep missing Insight when trying to call them about the MP, they are east coast i think and have been closed the last couple times I tried calling. If I could get it accurate I would be ok with that. But is it a setting or I need a new sensor or what?

it was real. just not live. The drone stuff was filmed earlier. I was really waiting for her to do something despicable because she is a despicable person. But I will admit that she kept her views in check and the halftime show was ok. Im not a fan of her or her music but I will say it was 1000 times better than the disaster that was the black eyed peas a few years ago. Just to chime in, I too think politics should be left out of this place. We have fakebook and twatter for that.