BDPetersen

My grumbling has subsided somewhat. While I would love to see this sleepy little airport, literally in my back yard, energized with a traffic pattern full of flight training, ag planes or whatever else I might have an understanding for, it was easy to see how this operation could devolve into a pia. You all have assuaged much of my concern. Thanks.

Thanks to all who have or will respond. Trying to keep an open mind.

A skydiving operation is wishing to relocate to our small county airport, giving up their grass strip for our asphalt. I am soliciting comments from anyone with experience with the impact of such activity on an airport. The Airport Authority is tending to be seduced by the additional 20,000 gal of jet-a sales promised. As yet their drop zone hasn’t been determined, but it’s likely to be adjacent to the airport. (My property abuts the airport but I went NIMBY). To their credit, they seem to be run by grown-ups.

I’ve been trying to wrap my head around section 10.4 “Post-Flight and Annual Checks “ which “requires (?) performing a check every 12 calendar months (via the monitor page of the smart phone app) to confirm the Last Calibration date corresponds to the last flight date. Is this a thing like a transponder or pitot/static check? Forever? Even when the app may be long gone? Is it a logbook item? Another sticker? I haven’t gotten into the weeds on ADS-B stuff ( I’m not even sure where the weeds are) but I’m curious.

A bit of nostalgia there for me. Rudy Frasca was a frequent visitor to Purdue during my stint there (‘65-‘68) and I’m sure the Mooney made the trip. We had one of the first Frasca simulators. Additionally, I note my first employer listed as the Iowa Mooney distributor, Flight Line, Inc. Thanks for the memories.

The Lycoming adapter #77852 replaces the screen housing along with a#76691 gasket. Should be safe acquisition from a salvage source as I did mine. The third party conversions don’t work due to engine mount interference.

Had interference issue with my installation emanating from the led beacon. Solution was running ground all the way to battery.

Sky beacon. As per moniacX, they acknowledged my cancelation and now reordered through Lafayette Avionics via eBay. And it shipped today.

Sky beacon. As per moniacX, they acknowledged my cancelation and now reordered through Lafayette Avionics via eBay.

Wow. Thanks.

I’m trying my best to sit on my hands to control my usual impatience, but here’s my story. I placed an order for the Uavionix Skybeacon in November and received an preorder number stating I would be charged for it when the order was released on January 2. That date has come and gone and despite two emails to them and leaving a phone message, it has been crickets. Well actually they acknowledged receiving an email. As yet no information. At least I have not yet been charged, but I hope this isn’t an indication of what their version of customer support is. I can imagine they may be inundated, but how hard could a response be. Curious if anyone else has any experience.

It’s really quite easy to do but if the flight attendants have the beverage carts out in the aisles, don’t expect to see another cup of coffee for the rest of the trip.

Thanks, all. Apparently I need to hope I have separate power supplies for each wingtip and eliminate the left one. A trip through the equipment list should tell. The installation manual makes it seem somewhat routine to find 14 v from the existing strobe wire.

As I sit here in my easy chair awaiting my Skybeacon to arrive, I’m doing my mental preparation by downloading the installation manual and perusing same. All is straight forward until I get to the caveat regarding the strobe power (yellow wire). UAV-1001421-001 19 Rev D WARNING: The yellow wire must be connected directly to 14/28V aircraft power. It must NOT be connected to a high voltage anti- collision power supply. What do you suppose the strobe system on my ‘66 “C” puts out and, if necessary, how would the power supply be by-passed? i know I can figure this out, but it’s cold in my hangar, warm in my chair, and you all are so smart. Thanks.

Always wanted one. Thanks

When my Stratus 2 power plug failed it made a trip back to Appareo via Sportys. There was a fee which Sporty reduced to half ( I’m thinking it came to $75). In a couple weeks I received a new 2a. Much better power port and unit. I was happy.

I guess I’ll find out in a month. Canary in the coal mine?

Don’t ya just miss DOS.

Digging out my copy of 1963 FAR’s (CAR’s prior to that)(this must be why I don’t throw stuff away) . . . The maneuvers aren’t so very different. The recent dumbing down of stall recovery being an exception. (Stall recognition was to be done without the aid of a stall warning device, for instance.) Instrument training and proficiency were required but minimal. ( The aircraft need only have a turn needle.) My biggest heart ache is in the cross country requirements. Back then there was a required solo xc leg of 100 miles. As it is now, one could be certified having only flown 50 miles at a time, practically seeing the destination soon after departure. I could do without the night xc that is now required. Long gone from the ATP ( we called it ATR back then. R for rating) is the beloved canyon approach. What fun is left?

I matriculated through those certificates in the early ‘60’s but I won’t try to recite the details without digging out the old flight test guides. Basically 40 hrs for private, 200 hrs for commercial and CFI. No night required for private. Cross country requirement a bit different for private.

My first hours as a CFI were in such, 1964. Beautiful example. Good luck.

If time is on your side, a wrapped cowl ( high priced cover or a cheap sleeping bag) along with a heat source ( as simple as a light bulb, certainly a pad heater on the sump) will bring the engine compartment up to a cozy, uniform temp. The goal, in my mind, is to deliver heat to the heart of the engine, namely the crankshaft resting in its bearings. The quick heat from the propane blasters may get the outside of the engine hot before the core gets happy. That’s if you have time to do your cooking low and slow. It can be as simple as an incandescent light bulb (if you can find one), a sleeping bag, and a timer.

Mine have been converted to LED, but apparently with no incandescent bulbs in the circuit they are either full on or off. I have been given a dimmer that is supposed to work with them. So far I haven’t tackled that. Might be easier to figure out adding an incandescent somehow. My winter to-do list is growing.

Good work. Now go pick out a thermos.

Too bad the EarthX battery is not approved for certified a/c.