MikeOH

I wonder what his hourly rate comes out to? For the OP, the real question: Is he looking for a plane to fly, or a long-term project that is its own reward?

LOL! After 10 years, at 100 hours per year, you'll be 4 months younger than the rest of your family (unless they come along, too)

I've heard the collision occurred above 300 feet. The part I'm confused by is that an approach slope of 3 degrees would put the RJ at around 200' 1/2 mile from the threshold. 1/2 mile is nearly on the EAST side of the Potomac. Is this some kind of 6 degree 'slam dunk' visual approach that would explain how the RJ was over 300 feet?

Helluva first post, I'll give you that With the only data you gave being it's been sitting in a hangar for 20 years, my advice would be to RUN, and change your phone number! But, if you post pictures we'll be only too happy to guesstimate just how much money and time you'll throw at this project

While you make a good point, I don't see how converting back to manual gear is going to be any less expensive or time consuming. Sure, if you gather all the parts up before hand and get your mechanic scheduled in advance (I'd think converting to manual gear is more than 8 hours!) your down time could be minimized. But, that assumes one wouldn't wait for the electric gears to wear out. No reason I couldn't do the same and have a DER design done and gears made BEFORE mine fail. And, swapping the gears is going to be a whole lot QUICKER than converting back to manual.

I've never been sure how that really works, legally. Say, you or I pay to have a DER approve a design for a new ab initio gear set and then legally produce an OPP for our individual aircraft. All legal. Now, if we share that DER data to others, is it legal to use as a basis for their OPPs? Not just from FAA legal, but would the DER have any claim of IP rights? I.e., he 'sold' his service for an INDIVIDUAL use, not for a group?

Frankly, that's my plan when mine are shot. I suspect it will be a lower cost approach than buying a used actuator, of unknown remaining life, for $10,000!

That's the way my '70F is set up.

Sure, I guess. It just seems that if two guys can lift one wing up with their backs even a 1" steel hollow pipe should be plenty strong enough.

You could look at the electrical schematic; that should show all the switches involved.

I don't know about a C, but my F takes less than five minutes to remove the top and cheeks. As @Hank says, the six #8 machine screws come out quick; I can't fathom how you'd spend 10-15 minutes EACH?!?!?? And, this is working by myself! I swear I could remove them in 3 minutes flat if put to the test! I will say I'm not as quick as Hank putting them back on. Takes me about 10 minutes to get all the baffle seals and fasteners lined up. I've tried putting the cheeks on first, but that has just made it more difficult for me. Not sure why it's easier, but I've settled on installing the top cowl first.

Nah, I suspect it's closer to 10,000%

I believe there is a separate set of points (retard points) that are set to fire later (TDC?) which are active when the key is in the 'start' position, and disconnected when in R, L, or BOTH positions.

Exactly! I've had my right tanks patched three times (left hasn't leaked) over the past seven years; maybe $1,000 total. I just don't understand the rush to spend what is approaching $15,000 for a complete strip & reseal. Leaks are going to have to get real bad before I entertain that kind of expense!

@George Braly Your response confused me as I thought it obvious from your previous criticisms of existing 'old' tanks that you would understand my point: My existing tanks are NOT causing me a problem with 100LL. As near as I can tell from the logs they have never been stripped and resealed; that's 55 years. Yes, they have been patched several times, including twice for the right tank during my 7 years of ownership; the left has never given me need to. IOW, very low cost tank maintenance. Any and all 'stains' from an occasional spill have been EASILY and completely cleaned by a rag dipped in 100LL! Even if that's a week later, or more, later. I suspect that I'm NOT the only one in this situation: a perfectly acceptable tank state; not perfect, but NOT requiring a $14,000 reseal. The fact that, at some point in the future, that may be required does NOT justify the acceptance of ANY fuel that will move that future expenditure to the PRESENT. Put another way, we are perfectly happy with the present state of our perhaps sub-standard, but acceptable, tanks and do NOT wish to jeopardize that situation.

Yeah, and they all suck! Especially out of KFUL. KPOC isn't a lot better; I'm going swimming in Puddingstone more than likely.

From your description I doubt it is the servo if the failure is IMMEDIATE after pushing the trim switch. It sounds more like there is a short in the wiring to the trim switch which comes into play when you press the trim switch. I would want the shop to look at the schematic for the failed board and identify the part of the circuit that is getting damaged. That knowledge would help in deducing what might be going on with the trim switch wiring. You could also disconnect the servo and check it for shorts with an ohmmeter. I would think, but do not know, that the drive circuitry for the servo is protected against shorts. Again, not certain on that. Hopefully, others with more detailed knowledge can weigh in, too.

That was a pretty extensive list. Point being, there might be mistakes. I'd give them a call if I really wanted to be sure about one of the products.

Curious why you say that vs. the cam.

Nah, got a few of those...yes, even in Kalifornia!

What's a 'coat'?

No doubt about it. Which, if I'm shopping around, is rather expected and an okay trade-off: they get some of my personal data and, hopefully, I get some market information. I just don't see the need to provide them with their competitor's name as I don't believe it's it my, or other customer's, best interest.

Yuup! Every time someone asks why I put up with Kalifornia, I just step outside in my shorts and t-shirt and enjoy today's 70+ degree weather and clear skies in January

I've always been skeptical when they insist on knowing the company I'm using. If they are truly performing a market pricing survey, while they may need policy coverage details, the name of the insurer is irrelevant.

Nothin' wrong with a good game of whack-a-mole