MikeOH

My recollection, as well. Here it is (as with most of Prof. Rogers' work, there is some math involved!): turnback.pdf

I've used Top Gun for annuals a few times, and plan to use them again next year. They've always finished my annual quickly (under 2 weeks) except for the year they had to send out my PowerFlow exhaust to Florida for overhaul; that wasn't their fault. But you do need to book many months out.

BINGO! Product misrepresentation, plain and simple. The idea that you shouldn't expect to recover those damages is almost as ridiculous as claiming that the $400 isn't even damages in the first place! You paid for a "license" to use a misrepresented product...damn right I'd want my money back.

You're welcome. Take heed to what @PT20J said; just run it for a second or two in each direction to verify the motor runs. Series wound motors need a load!

I took a look at the schematic for an E (S/N: 700035 and greater). The RED wire is always connected to positive (+ Battery) and is connected to the FIELD winding on the motor. The BLACK wire is the other side of the FIELD winding and is connected through two RELAYS that control the direction of the current through the ARMATURE which is the GREEN and YELLOW wires. That is, the field is connected in SERIES with the ARMATURE where the current is ALWAYS in the same direction through the FIELD (RED/BLACK) but the current through the ARMATURE (GREEN/YELLOW) wires is dependent upon the relay positions. In effect, the relays control whether the GREEN or YELLOW ARMATURE wire is connected to ground, while the other ARMATURE wire is connected to the BLACK FIELD wire. To 'bench test' I would connect the POSITIVE battery terminal to the RED wire, connect the BLACK wire to the GREEN wire, and connect the YELLOW wire to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery and note the direction of rotation of the motor. Then REVERSE the YELLOW and GREEN wires (i.e. connect the YELLOW wire to the BLACK wire, and the GREEN wire to NEGATIVE battery terminal) and the motor should rotate in the opposite direction. That's the best I can do for you.

I did not know that. Makes sense there'd be a spike.

Wonder why it went up by 200 gallons (67%) in August?

You beat me to it! You would differentiate altitude to get VSI (time rate of change of altitude)

Yeah, I've tried that... however, it seems my plane wants a better looking masseuse

Sure, if it's a short 'while you wait' repair. Otherwise, it's definitely NOT Mooney time to get home, and then come back to pick up your plane!

LOL! Yes, definitely making use of F=Ma

Well, maybe if you expect a HUGE inrush current a slow-blow would be appropriate. Thing is, it is not commonly understood that even a fast-blow fuse is really pretty damn slow at just over its rated current. E.g., a 3AB fast acting 10 Amp fuse will take over 15 minutes to blow when at just over 10 Amps! Even at 20 Amps it will take 4-5 seconds! So, just how long do you really want to wait when the circuit is drawing over the fuse's rated current? https://www.littelfuse.com/assetdocs/fuse-322-datasheet?assetguid=4716bb79-a4c9-46f8-a462-76ba7e6af5ae

I believe there is a movable (vertically) weight rigged to a bellows of sorts. When you climb or descend the force of vertical acceleration compresses or expands the bellows and provides an instantaneous increase/decrease of pressure vs. the delay caused by the calibrated leak in the case.

Not a thing, IMHO as an EE. The reality here is that these antennae we are discussing are NOT high-Q; i.e., they are 'broadband' enough and easily handle the bandwidth required by the modulation schemes used for both the transponder and ADS-B. As @skykrawler said, 'no reason to replace an antenna if it's working properly' I doubt most antennas 'fail'. Rather, the coax, connectors, and connection to the ground plane deteriorate over time.

Keep up with posts like that and you're going to lose your CB card!

Curious as to details on that inverter. My concern would be electrical interference from a SMPS.

I have heard (i.e. I don't have a cite) that there are different dipstick/tube possibilities...IOW, it is possible you have the wrong one installed and are getting an incorrect reading.

Sounds like it's QAA that might need the manual forwarded to them!

Hmm, the FAA comes pretty close

Could be. Maybe Mooney knows?

LOL! That makes way too much sense!

IMHO, the issue is if G100UL was misrepresented in its advertising. Was there a false statement of fact? Claimed to be a "Drop in replacement". Is it? Was being a 'drop in replacement' a major reason people chose to buy the STC? By relying on that did buyers suffer damage/losses? While damage to your aircraft from using G100UL is certainly a loss, so is the cost for an STC that you cannot use because the product will not meet claims advertised. I see no reason you have to actually buy and use the misrepresented fuel to have a financial loss from the misrepresentation. Paying for a 'license' (the STC) to use a misrepresented product is still a loss due to relying upon a false statement of fact.

Hmm, Kevlar was invented in 1965...57 year old M20C, ya think Mooney was that early an adopter?

If have some material you can buy a test kit at Home Depot and send it to a lab to find out (IF you want to know) https://www.homedepot.com/p/PRO-LAB-Asbestos-Test-Kit-AS108/202731785

That's why I'd use the commercially available automotive part as a 'base part' to upscreen and prove it is equal or better than the aviation part; so, way less than $1700. Yes, the DER would be one plane at a time...and, his cost might ruin the financial break-even. Again, my response is how I would proceed to investigate an alternative. Might not workout...but I'd try it before bending over and just accepting $1700 for a 50 buck part!