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MikeOH

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Everything posted by MikeOH

  1. Having BTDT, 100% agree! I did the passenger side first and thought “this going to be a piece of cake”! Little did I know….
  2. Hmm, doesn't work so well when you only have a landing light. Which I have on from takeoff to landing. I've never had an issue with a simple, "Confirm Mooney XXX cleared to land runway YY" request if I'm a bit unsure.
  3. Yeah, but the shipping is $5.95
  4. Maybe just me, but your new font is nearly impossible to read.
  5. Good read, but keep in mind this is a site for VATSIM; it is NOT an FAA or government site! Note the disclaimer at the bottom of the page:
  6. Yeah, that was a FABULOUS box. It almost seemed like Garmin wanted to not merely eliminate competition, which makes sense, but eliminate a better product (the CNX80/GNS480), which made NO SENSE!
  7. I have honed out minor scoring on automotive master and wheel cylinders; no idea if that is acceptable, or what the limits are before the piston cup won't seal, for aircraft. Seems low risk to try, BWTHDIK
  8. Or, five minutes with tin snips, pliers, and a can of Krylon
  9. Just a possible suggestion as I have NOT done this: Use a heat gun on the inside to soften the adhesive, and then force a putty knife with a tapered blade between the window and frame on the outside. I.e., press in and away from the frame.
  10. Sorry, FAIL! The one time I forgot to pull chocks was in a Cessna, over 30 years ago. I shut down, disembarked, and personally retrieved them in shame Everyone else stayed in the plane. NOT one of your choices.
  11. Sorry, no way I believe there are perfect pilots. Exactly!
  12. Striving for perfection is admirable; claiming it, well, not so much.
  13. Or, have poor memories.
  14. If one end of the tow bar is connected to the aircraft, the other end is connected to my hand. I am crazy zealous with this rule... if I need to check wingtip clearance while pushing, I will remove the tow bar, walk over to check, walk back and reinsert the tow bar. So far, so good
  15. My silicone gaskets have held fine without any loctite.
  16. @JimK is correct. My covers had leaks until I cleaned both surfaces of ALL oil. I used @Gee Bee Aeroproducts gaskets. Use a torque wrench as 20 in-lbs is way less than you think! Finally, there is a torque sequence; I followed that pattern, as well. No leaks since.
  17. My opinions on the three 'concerns': 1) SAFETY (from radiation): If you use a cell phone pressed against the side of your head, Starlink is NOT what you should worry about! 2) LEGALITY: If you block a window that interferes with your ability to see traffic...that's pretty STUPID, regardless of legality. I don't see an issue with top of the glareshield, however. 3) PERFORMANCE: Just based on this thread, it seems Starlink is pretty great. And, in AMUs, it is nearly a negligible monetary risk. Bottom line: I see a Starlink in my future purchases.
  18. EXACTLY! It's also why I also check for correct control movement during every pre-flight so that when it comes out of service some day and the controls have been hooked up incorrectly I'll catch it.
  19. Same with my plane.
  20. How did you solo at 15 in a powered aircraft?
  21. The key phrase there is, "with good care". That's really the point, I suppose: A plane that's put away in a hangar, or parked on the ramp, is highly UNLIKELY to have been given any care whatsoever. And, yes, I'd take an older aircraft with low or high time that had been continuously flown over the past year over one that had sat in a hangar for the last decade! Honestly, I'm beginning to think you're just arguing to 'win the internet' or something
  22. To be correct your comment assumes that is the ENITRE life history of the aircraft is one of disuse, or continuous use. My point is from the perspective of a CURRENT buyer. IMHO recent use is a good indicator of the aircraft's future reliability (no, NOT indefinitely!). Regardless of whether the plane has been sitting in a hangar or out on the ramp (worse) for three years, I'll take the plane that has been flown consistently over that same three years.
  23. @Mooney-Shiner Is this a NEW problem? Or, have you always used headphones and just noticed the speaker doesn't work? As others have said, the speaker isn't wired correctly per the schematic. But, it is not clear if you are troubleshooting a new problem or an issue that has always been present. If it is a new problem, I would disconnect the high side wire at both ends (speaker and tray) and check for a short between the high side wire and ground.
  24. @jordanschooler With respect to this particular aircraft, IMHO, it is an overpriced unicorn. Nothing wrong with unique custom paint if that is what you like, but consider when it comes time to sell your market is going to be very much smaller. There's a reason this plane has sat for two years; it's too equipped and unique for its price point. Also, look at how much it's actually been flown over the last two years. My guess is not very much; that breaks my cardinal rule: regardless of what you buy, recent and continuous use is a very good indicator of how reliable the plane is going to be. Finally, if I wanted to spend that kind of money I would be looking at Ovations
  25. I'm having a little trouble understanding your issue. What do you mean by 'get my speaker to work right?' Is it weak, noisy, intermittent, ?? The fact that your ohmmeter reads different with the master on vs. off suggest a ground loop. You mention that you measured the high side pin to the speaker, but it looks like you just measured the low side (shield) to some random ground on the panel. I would think you should measure to the return pin on the tray pin, just like you did for the high side. Total guess, given my lack of understanding, is that the shield on the speaker wire is chafed and is shorting to the airframe somewhere along its length.
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