MikeOH

Sounds like you’ve already decided to pretend your name is Forest Good job!

I can say with 100% certainty that I do NOT post ANY of my experiences for EXACTLY this reason. The last thing I need is some arrogant holier than thou “expert” telling me I’m to blame for his high insurance premiums.

Possibly that there is more cooling when traveling through the air at over 100 mph than a ground run-up?

That’s the starting temperature, you add the additional temp across the top to get the total temp. E.g., for 110 degrees you’d go down the first column to 100, then move across the cell under the 10 column...5.814 mV.

Thanks. I knew I was giving up speed, but like the better overall efficiency. Trade off that I accept. A little confused about staying out of the ‘red-box’ at only 65% power; I didn’t think that was an issue at that low power as long as CHTs are not excessive.

Charmin’ comment

Me, too. That’s right where I usually run: 65%, 50 LOP, around 8.5-9.0 gph. I curious what’s so bad about that...???

Same here; both situations.

Ditto the ditto

Sorry to hear all of those 'fixes' were not completely effective I'm a bit concerned that maybe my situation, as well....no new cowl, but I did replace the baffles which helped a little (helped my CHTs a bit more)

That's a good idea. I was thinking of coming in from the side, but with the filter removed it would be easier access.

Bob, As I don't have the history on the seat and valve (logbook doesn't have anything noted, but I'm not betting that everything was recorded!), those are excellent suggestions to check. I never would have thought about the seat being reamed too many times and, therefore, too deep. I'd really like to get this solved before warmer weather rolls around... I was pushing 230 F last summer Thanks for the link, very informative!

Well, yeah...I took “want” as a given

Exactly! Or, to put it less diplomatically: As aircraft owners we are, nearly by definition, fiscally irresponsible The only question is, “Can you afford it?”

Looking at several recent flights and I don’t see any change in slope...just ramps up to around 210 F. I’m beginning to think the vernatherm isn’t routing oil to the cooler...

Thanks, again! I’m going to pull the upper cowl and have a look.

Thank you! I’m wondering if I should just bite the bullet and pull the vernatherm; how difficult was it? It looks like a pain vs pulling the oil cooler.

Excellent idea! I'll pull the data tonight and see if there is a slope change.

Thanks! That's just what I was wondering. I suppose the easiest thing would be to pull the cooler and send it out to Pacific Oil Cooler and see if that fixes the problem...

Yep. Those are the steps in the Lycoming document. Getting the Vernatherm out is a bit of a project, so I’m trying the simple stuff first. I have both the factory oil temp gauge and a G3 engine monitor with a separate thermistor; they agree pretty well, so I don’t think it’s a gauge problem. The cooler fins are open and clean. The IR thermometer is a good idea, but the cooler was not even warm after today’s flight. I’m trying to understand if that could be ‘normal’ after a low power descent and 5 minute taxi, or if it should still be at least warm to the touch. If it should be warm, then I’ve narrowed the problem to the cooler, lines, or Vernatherm. I’m hoping someone has some experience that I can draw on. Thanks!

I’d like to track down why my oil temps run high, 220 in the summer, a bit over 200 now (OAT 55). I have the Lycoming guide to troubleshooting high oil temps and one of the tests is to check the temp of the oil cooler compared to the sump (should be the same with no cool ‘spots’). So, after my flight today I shut down (about 5 minutes after landing with OAT around 55) and within a couple of minutes put my hand on the oil cooler and it was pretty much the same temp as the surronding cowling! That is to say, like 55 degrees! Am I on to something, or did my descent, landing, 5 minutes of taxiing allow the oil cooler to drop that much in temp? Thanks!

Probably not what you want to hear: Find a plane with a working AP already installed. JMHO

I’m pretty sure you meant, “Just the kind of responses my hangar fairy needed.”

Don’t have regrets! There are plenty of good planes out there. Just be ready to pull the trigger (with cash, if possible). I lost out on several deals becuase I wouldn’t make a decision fast enough. I showed up to the plane two days after the ad appeared (I called and made the appointment the evening the ad showed up). The seller had emailed the logs which I had reviewed before I showed up to look at the plane. Having looked at countless planes over more time than I care to admit, I knew this was one worthy of an offer. I made a cash offer contingent on a pre-buy at a nearby MSC; he had 4 other buyers in the wings, but “bird in hand cash offer’ won the day. (Deal was made with a handshake and no deposit. Others may freak-out at “no contract” but it worked for us) The seller flew the plane to the MSC, plane checked out OK, and a week later I wired the money and escrow closed

I bought my first plane in November 2017, a 1970 M20F. I had been shopping for quite a while (years, in fact) and had looked at many dogs; that “C” is just the kind of plane I RAN FROM many times. The “F” is worth looking at, but seems overpriced at nearly $47K; I paid a lot less for mine and it had been owned and flown regularly by one owner for the past 13 years. Do NOT be in a rush...that is the way to buy a plane you shouldn’t. Recent use, stored inside, well maintained is much more important than hours on the engine, IMHO. Good luck!