kevinw

The Aviation Consumer did a comparison of these oil filters and I seem to recall that while both were very good they gave the nod to Tempest because of the internal magnet. I've been using Champion but when I need to reorder I'm going with Tempest because of the lower price.

I was told a wet pump is also heavier than a dry one reducing useful load a bit. This came from a Bonanza owner who is planning to remove his. Not sure if this is true but I would want to know before installing one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great looking panel! As Browncbr1 posted, an 830 would fit nicely but there are two more advantages if you're trying to keep cost down. The connections are exactly the same as your 700 making install simple and JPI will take your 700 in on trade. My 700 was on the fritz (display flickering) and I traded up to the 830 for about $1200. Adding MP and RPM required a little labor but not much. My only regret was not getting the oil pressure probe so I plan on doing that at annual. Look into it; it's not a bad deal and I've been very happy with the 830.

I would like to know more about this after reading some of your posts. My understanding is the timing will advance little by little as altitude increases and MP drops. That said, at 7-9K MSL, what seems to be the sweet spot for the IO-360, I don't think is advancing much. I took is as the most it could advance was 12-13 degrees if I was at altitudes I would normally never be at, 15K+. I could be wrong and will look into it further. By the way, I've read good things about the Advanced Pilot Seminar. I've thought about buying the online course. -Kevin

+1 for Jason Doscher in BBB. Not only is he a Mooney expert but he's very particular and cuts no corners. He pointed out a laundry list of engine install mistakes that were made in Willmar when looking at it for a mag issue. I will say Brian agreed and made it right by correcting all the issues but I lost faith in the shop (I think I still have that list). Jason does all my work now and I highly recommend him. His shop may not be a a MSC but 90% of the work he does is on Mooneys. He's a one man shop and I like knowing he is the only guy working on my airplane. I've heard very good things about Pete and Eric but Jason has given me no reason to look elsewhere.

He'll be lucky to get anything North of $100K but I'm sure he's hoping to find a buyer "asleep at the wheel". A hundred people can call him crazy but he only needs one that thinks it's a deal.

It's that sound that's responsible for my addiction to aviation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I called Electroair tech support about my controller being reprogrammed from 25 to 20. I don't want to be giving up speed or hp. He advised me not to change it. He said the timing will start advancing when the MP starts dropping below 24". It can advance as much as 12-13 degrees totaling as much as 33 degrees. If I have it reprogrammed to 25d the timing will advance linearly and that means as much as 38d. He said that's too much. I'm far from an expert, just relaying the info I received on Monday. I'm not completely sold on this and if I can pick up the extra power and speed without compromising the cylinders, I'm interested in learning more but he said I have the right setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it fixed. There are two transistors on the back of the rheostat; one for the panel and one for the glareshield. My glareshield one was bad and that knocked out the trim/flap and compass lights with it. You may want to check the panel lights transistor on yours. While you're there make sure a wire didn't come loose inside the box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I found the problem. I pulled the rheostat and followed the wires like you suggested. Everything looked good. One of my employees father is an electronics whiz so I had him take a look at it. Turns out the transistor wasn't fully working and also the screw that holds the transistor is wasn't grounding properly. I reinstalled it today and my glareshield and flap/trim lights work normally. There was a schematic on the rheostat cover that shows the glareshield, trim/flap and also compass lights are all on the same circuit. Never would've guessed. Easy, low cost fix this time!

I really am. I can't say it's night and day different from the original set up but it certainly runs smoother so I wouldn't go back. The only issue I had was with radio interference. Took forever to pinpoint but it turns out the EIS plug wires must be separated with about 2" of hose and zip ties. Other than that I recommend the fine wire plugs that are now available with the system. I had them installed a few months ago and the engine starts effortlessly now. Not that it was big problem but it cranked a little longer than I liked. Then new plugs changed that. Plus I notice they don't load up like the massives but I still aggressively lean on the ground out of habit.

I'm guessing that's what I have going on. I pulled the glareshield completely off and couldn't find anything. I think I'm going to take a closer look at the rheostat. Thanks for the help!

I've been troubleshooting my glareshield lights recently. I have my panel lights but no glareshield or trim/flap indicator lights. Does anyone know if the trim/flap indicator light is tied to the glareshield? I was hoping it was just a burned out fuse but that's not the case.

...and it will. From what I've read they're working on it. It's available now for experimental and hopefully soon on certified aircraft.

I have the system in my J. Most noticeably it's much smoother at idle. As far as performance the payoff comes at higher altitudes. I was up yesterday at 9500 msl and running 2500 rpm burning 9.3 gph. I was told by my cfi that from the ground the engine even sounds different. Smoother. I've been happy with it and even more so after installing fine wire plugs which were not available when I installed it about two years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you imagine what it was like in the plane the last minute or so? I'm sure they were fighting the controls, hitting each other, etc. The instructor must have been in an all out panic and fighting for his life. Glad he was able to survive otherwise no on may have ever known the true cause of the crash. What a world we live in....

Someone said in an earlier post that he was quoted $38K for non-FIKI so not cheap. If I recall, the previous owner told me he spent $25K but this was done in 1998. Said he had a bad experience in icing and scared him into adding it.

Having a J with non-FIKI TKS, here's my 2 cents and it's similar to the others. I rarely use it but it's nice to have it when you need it; it also puts my wife at ease in the winter. The system was installed by the previous owner after a scare in icing. Personally, I'd rather have the useful load back with my kind of flying. With a full 6 gallons of fluid the system weighs 98 lbs so in the summer I only keep about a gallon in the tank. I believe it costs me 4-5 knots of airspeed. You should to test the panels once a month and it makes a mess. For someone who does a lot of winter IFR flying I can see the advantages but I'm not that guy so I highly doubt my next plane will have it. As far as corrosion, I was told by a mechanic at a MSC that the fluid itself is not corrosive but it creates a corrosive environment.

I was able to turn on the key lights by turning up the backlight in the function page. Thanks Don. On another note I had a similar problem with my 530W and 430W. It's a little more complicated to adjust but if anyone is having the same issue with the GNS series just hold the ENT button in while powering up the box. Then go to page 5 where you can make adjustments. I switched the key lights to 14V panel and turned up the brightness. Now the buttons work with my panel lights while I left the display on photocell. Much better at night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Don. Hopefully it's just a setting issue but glad to know they are lit at night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I recently installed a GTX345 and flew at night for the first time last weekend since the install. Does anyone know if the buttons are supposed to be lighted? Mine are not and I had to use a flashlight to find the ident button (My glareshield lights are inop). I looked through the pilot handbook and can't find anything suggesting they light up.

Weather display is too important to me. I'd go with the 345 and pony up the $800 later for the unlock to the Aspen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't know that until researching this. Not a huge deal; most of us can judge the takeoff position with about a 4 sec count but it sure is nice to have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm having two issues with lights right now. The first is the lights on my glareshield are out. After searching previous posts here I checked the 5 amp microfuse and it's good. I also checked the connection under the glareshield and it's good as well. I'm told it's possibly the capacitor. The second problem is the backlight to the trim/flap position indicator is out. Once again, after researching this topic here, I found where the bulb is. I pulled it and it tested good so now I plan to bring it to my avionics shop. He thinks the glareshield will be easy to figure out but not sure on the indicator light. Does anyone have any ideas or info I can give my avionics guy that would help save some time. I can't imagine the indicator light is tied to the glareshield lights; I would think it would be tied to the panel lights, which work fine. Thanks in advance for the help. -Kevin

If a turbo is a consideration there's a M20K that was just listed here on MS. 231AL for $84K