Gary0747

I have never had to try using it but I always carry an 8 ounce plastic squeeze bottle containing propylene glycol that I would try to get on the windshield through that side window port if I had a complete ice cover.

The removable covers directly above the hydraulic pot on these early models are notorious for leaking. Has the airplane spent much time tied down outside?

I posted this on a 4 year old thread on this topic but realized the original post had been placed under the General topics, so I moved it here where more expertise resides. Most of the new audio panels appear to require us to short the mike key (tip) to the audio low (barrel) which works fine if one has two wires run to their PTT switch in the control yoke. But if we only have a single wire to the switch in the yoke, that gets grounded with the PTT, will this create a problem by not using the mike audio low to key the transmitter on the newer audio panels. In some cases reworking the control yoke switches appears to be a big job. The mike low circuit is grounded any way inside the audio panels.

Sandia Quatro which are also BK units had issues with some of their AI units that triggered an AD. I don’t think that had been resolved yet. Are the AV30 AI issues similar? It is worth noting that the Garmin units require a GPS input. I wonder if this keeps their units from drifting off? But I have noted even a few Garmin G5 users have also reported issues.

I wonder if there are any software updates for the original AV20s units? They did not seem to calculate true airspeed correctly and the angle of attack never worked on most Mooney’s.

Thanks, The TC inverter ground was found to be on just the aluminum skin of the airplane. Moving it to the right side panel near the TC circuit breaker made a big improvement.

Would it also make sense to add a braded ground strap from the firewall to at least the left panel which is floating on the rubber shock mounts that probably do not conduct?

How does the ground get from the engine/generator to the instrument panel? I see the big ground strap to the firewall but is there a strap from the firewall to the instrument panel some where?

I have the original Brittain turn coordinator and seem to be picking up some low level noise in parts of my audio system. Does anybody have experience solving this? Ferrite Beads? Capacitors? Improved Grounding?

To get the deviation bar to show on th Sandel sn3308 you have to have the map settings turned off.

What is the procedure for cleaning the lens? Installing behind the wheel will likely get the lens dirty on a wet runway. I wonder what to expect in changing performance of the unit will be with a slightly dirty lens?

It appears the KMA24 may have mechanical switches? My KA134 has mechanical push button switches and the contacts on mine need to be exercised and cleaned with contact cleaner occasionally or I can get weak or no signal from some of the audio inputs. I wish mine had the audio isolation amps that it sounds like yours has.

I think it may be time to replace it. It is simply an input switching unit that feeds a Flightcom Sterio intercom with a Clearence recorder. The intercom works well and I would prefer not to replace it. My KA-134 is and old mechanical switching unit that feeds all the 500 ohm audio input together with no isolation amps. I was looking for a simple switching unit that has audio amps for each input for better isolation. Does anybody you know of make such a unit without all the intercom features?

Trying to locate a lose wire but need the manual or circuit diagram. Cant locate anything with an internet search.

I just came back from the airport after finding a full cup of rat poison pellets behind my wheel well liner. A mouse hauled them and likely died elsewhere. Fortunately they did not penetrate my rat socks that I made years ago with stretchy nylon fabric and Velcro. Now to clean up the mess and thoroughly hose out the wheel well. My Laser wheel liners have a gap at the small end like they should have been made 3 inches longer. Has anybody fixed this? On the retract rod I plan to coat it with grease to see if that stops them going in that way.

Looks like residual adhesive? Was the foam installed using self stick or additional adhesive? If so perhaps the adhesive or surface prep is the culprit? Also I thought the purpose of the original service bulletin was to stop corrosion of the steel tubes and the aluminum was not a corrosion problem. It sure appears to be chemical incompatibility with the aluminum. Any way to trace it back to the manufacturer of the foam? Any number of things can create incompatibility. Blowing agents, fire proofing chemicals or the foam composition itself.

Can you remove with a high pressure water blast with out damaging the aluminum? Pressures up to 10,000 psi have been used to clean equipment in the chemical process industry but the metals are typically harder than aluminum. There are some serious personal protection issues when using this high of pressure. One guy cut his toes off.

I fly to Phoenix from Michigan frequently in my NA Mooney. My most recent flight I refueled near you at KSDA. My last refuel was at KLHX. Flew La Veta pass to KDVT VFR. La Veta pass has an AWOS. If weather that route is not good I will refuel at KDHT and fly OTTO ABQ SJN KDVT VFR. Plan for a quick descent to get under PHX class B after clearing the high country north of KPAN. I will not fly either route if the forecast winds at 12,000 feet are over 25 knots. I never fly IFR in weather or clouds over the mountains.

I have wondered several times in take off and climb why it seemed that I was using varying amounts of right rudder compared to previous flights. Not sure all the factors that can cause this? I have been thinking I needed to check the rigging of the servos and cable lengths on the rudder assist servos in the tail cone but I have not located the rigging info on those parts.

I am a Chemical Engineer with an advanced degree having worked 32 years for Dow Chemical which was the largest manufacturer of chlorinated organic chemicals in the world. I know from real life experiences how incompatible these materials are with aluminum. I have to speak up when somebody acting as an expert “corrects”me and makes a bad recommendation that will likely cause harm. Methylene chloride will get into the cracks and joints and over time decompose to minute amounts of hydrochloric acid which will damage the passive protective oxide layer on the aluminum causing exfolation of the aluminum in the crack or joint. Raymond J eluded to caution when talking about cleaning preparation for tank lining above. I have also felt that some people painting aircraft have not been aware of the hazard here and have used chlorinated solvents to strip the paint aircraft. This type of corrosion will not show up immediately but years later the results can be exfolation damage showing up in the cracks and crevises especially in the overlapping joints and rivets. Yes these solvents are volitale but they can become trapped or mixed with grease, dirt or other materials so don’t just assume the evaporate cleanly like they might in a laboratory beaker. Do we really understand all the causes of corrosion on our airplanes that we are scraping everyday? This is just one.

Sounds like all your experience is working with Pyrex working in the lab? With 32 years experience running plants in the real world that made this and other chlorinated organic products I recommend not using them on aluminum!

I would strongly recommend not using any chlorinated solvents around aluminum especially where they might get into cracks and seams. Over time they can degrade to form HCl.

Does it seem beneficial to ever wash the dirt and grime off the external fins on oil coolers? If so what kind of detergent or solvent do you use that work and is compatible with aluminum?

My belts were purchased from Lasar at least 20 years ago. Likely even before AMSafe was in business. In contacting AMSafe and telling them when and where I got them they said theirs likely would not match the ones I had. I don’t mind purchasing an entire new set of belts but do not want to redo the shoulder belt attachment point to the tubular structure. Plastic was cut and getting sufficient clearance between the steel tube and the metal aircraft skin was a bear of a job.

I have had the shoulder harness kit sold by Lasar for many years. There is an attachment to the aircraft steel tubing that was very difficult to install and required installing a set screw into the tubing. It seems like a real waste to install an entirely different system when the only part that sucks Is the latch type buckle. The placement of the buckle and the latch is pretty much set by the placement required for the shoulder harness across the body. I think the latching mechanisms regardless of style all fit a standard sized male insert from the lap belt. I don’t think AM safe makes the belts they sell but will not sell just the push button latch belt.