Ragsf15e

The writeup he quoted from his engine said the hoses were teflon/silicone so he should be ok…

Yeah, im hoping that’s new carpet because it looks fantastic compared to mine.

Replacing old hoses might be separate from your issue (and might not be an issue since yours are teflon). The theory is that the fuel psi bobbles around when air bubbles get in the lines. I’m guessing that would normally happen at a joint. It might be a very small air leak that isn’t actually leaking fuel yet. Could also be from heat causing fuel to vaporize and fluctuate pressure. There are a lot of theories. Lots of people with electronic engine monitors see this activity. Some find help with a snubber. Usually you don’t see it on a mechanical gage. The thing that scares me is deciding that it’s normal and missing something that might be important. Unfortunately, troubleshooting it isn’t simple either. Trust me, I’ve tried…

Not sure if they’ll keep them or help, but Tom Rauch at Top Gun in Sacramento or Don Maxwell in Longview might have an old set laying around. You might also be able to find an old set of 20/1 at a junkyard. Maybe Beegles or @Alan Fox might have a non airworthy one?

Are you sure you’re getting enough fuel flow on takeoff? Here’s the real point, at very high power, the SF doesn’t provide any advance. So it’s unlikely that it’s causing your higher temps unless something else isn’t set up right. Now they use to publish an advance map, that showed advanced timing kicking in around 5,000’, so, roughly around 75% power and then slowly increasing as power is reduced by thinner air at altitude. It’s unlikely that the SF is causing higher temps in the climb unless the initial timing on them isn’t set right or something else isn’t (like fuel flow). I only have one SF, and a smaller engine, so this isn’t a good comparison, but it’s hard to see any difference in temps unless I compare ROP cruise data at ~10,000’, and then it’s only like 10 degrees warmer.

A K in hot weather at mgw (admittedly at sea level) might seem a bit underpowered, so if you get slow and low and behind, it’s gonna be tougher to overcome that with extra power.

I’d maybe consider it in training, but I think a thorough ground discussion with a new mooney pilot would suffice. I’m actually glad I didn’t have instruction on how to close the door when mine popped. I didn’t close it right and the top latch wasn’t done. I took off from some lonely, hot, high New Mexico airfield at mgw. The top of the door was open a bit and noticeably loud. The airplane was flying like a fully loaded pig at high-ish DA. I thought it wouldn’t be tough, so I opened the door and tried to close it at say pattern altitude. No dice. Just as @Greg Ellis said, it was pretty solid at 1-2” open. Now I didn’t get slower than ~100kts and I’m happy about that. I’m guessing if you get slow enough, you can close it. Also a little slip and possibly even the storm window open. Now the reason I’m glad I didn’t know all that was because I didn’t do any of it. I just flew to my destination with a louder and more drafty airplane. I think it’s probably fine to do how @N201MKTurbo did at cruise altitude (night stalls might be a stretch), but I certainly wouldn’t want people slowing to just above stall, heavy, low, maybe some yaw, distracted - you see where this goes. I think the best thing is to know that it can be hard to close, it’s possible at slow speeds, it flys just fine with the door open, it won’t open far, and you shouldn’t mess with it unless you have knowledge and altitude. And it helps if you’re bulletproof as @N201MKTurbo suggests.

Certainly out west it’s nice to cruise in the mid teens on occasion. Don’t plan on it max gross weight. You can probably get there but the climb is slow and the cruise feels mushy. One or two occupants in a light plane with cool temperatures, it’s definitely an option. Rich of peak and 2500 RPM will be your friends.

Also, if you’re airplane has a different prop stc, that could have a different yellow arc restriction. What prop do you have?

I know this isn’t the approved answer, and I only have a lowly F, but I fly it in the winter in Washington and it doesn’t have significant drafts. Mine is a Home Depot weatherstripping job. I had to replace part of it because it was getting cut up where the support arm folds under the door. I just cut out that piece of weatherstripping and put in a new one. It’s easy to work with, pliable, and seals well.

I couldn’t DM you either, but it would be awesome if I could get in on this for 4 as well? Thanks so much for building these! Drew

I would do the capacity check as @EricJ suggested. I have even pulled the cb for the ADI airborne and just let it run on battery for an hour or more to see if the timeline was realistic. If you let it run for a good long time on just battery, you can also see if it recharges at all since it will be lower than your current ~70%.

Oh yeah, they were supposed to be in aft initiate for sure! There was always a controversy on whether they never set it or it was moved into normal during the flailing. The switch would be difficult to accidentally move…. In this case, it saved the aircraft and the pilot from ejection!

You just need my 6 foot monkey arms! Every time you guys talk about how hard it is to reach the fuel selector, I wonder what you’re doing wrong, but I think it’s just my long arms!

Wow, that sounds fantastic! I’d love to see that!

There’s always been some debate on this. Supposedly the avidyne documentation says the ifd is a slide in replacement for a gns430 and all its connections, however you won’t find the ifd mentioned in the garmin installation manual as an approved gps. So i think that a garmin installer might tell you it’s not approved, but an avidyne rep might say it’s just fine. Clearly it works as there’s a lot of them out there.

Welcome back, we missed your experience and sanity. Good to see the B-26 back up there! How’s your F flying?

Oh, yes, that sounds awesome!

Yes, but they are more/less the same weight once hot (maybe someone uses aeroshell 80?). I’ve been using Xc 20w-50. It should be the same as Aeroshell 100 when hot. Anyway, I used the same oil I normally do. However if the batch is slightly different, that could do it.

Nope, that’ll make it much worse!!

That seems like it would be ok, but the readout/sensitivity on the sensorcon is really nice. The guardian doesn’t go off until 50ppm and you don’t know what the actual level is. If I see 20+ on the ground, I already know I have a problem. More than about 5 in the air, same. I’m just hoping the sensorcon company isn’t defunct.

There’s also a ring you can wear to continually monitor it. That’s a nice addition. Sorry, I don’t have a link. I use oxygen on all flights above 8k now and feel so much better for it.

You guys are making it a lot more palatable for me to freeze my ass off in Washington all winter just to enjoy our nice summer temperatures!

You can do a full power run up without overheating. You probably don’t want to run for an extended time like that, but a runup is fine. Also be careful that the ramp is clean (to save paint dings and your prop). One thing to be cautious of is setting “max rpm”. You’re looking for max power yes, but with enough ROP to provide some cooling from the extra fuel. If you do your max power runup, set around 50rop and then takeoff with the thin air and slow climb, you’ll quickly have very high chts. You need to be well rich of peak egt. Personally I like the target egt method and it works pretty well at higher altitudes, but a full power runup is certainly another option. I set my target egt (egt from a full rich sea level takeoff) during the takeoff roll, but it requires knowing the egt, having an engine monitor, and doing it during the takeoff.

Exactly. Just be very careful about the water…