Ragsf15e

Yes, #2 egt was a little higher than I expected but not much. I’d have to pull the data off the jpi (duh, I should’ve downloaded it) and see how much though. What you described sounds plausible, especially if it’s my “mag” plug on that cylinder. The SF advance kind of masks problems with the other plugs because the engine is (almost) firing just on the SF at higher altitudes because of the advance. There’s very little egt rise if I switch to left mag at cruise, lop. The egts go way up and the engine gets rough if I switch to right mag without re-leaning. The mag is working fine, it’s just the difference in timing. The thing I didn’t understand was the slight increase in cht. You guys have definitely given me a place to look.

Thanks, that’s a good point about anything clogging the air/breather hole on the injector making it richer.

Definitely post if you’re able to solve it. I thought Omega made snubbers matched to viscosity (8g being for gas/air) and the next closest one was for oil. 100ll was between the two. Which one are you using? The one I tried was for “light oil” and it didn’t work, although I also caused a leak, so that could have been part of it.

Now how the heck did it get like that?!

What the previous guys said… but also, you don’t “need” to comply with the sb since it’s not an AD. Currently there aren’t any available options, so luckily you can be airworthy with the one you have.

A while back, @PT20J posted Goodyears aircraft tire guidance. It was very detailed with pictures and tires not showing coords were fine. Might want to take a look at it if you can find it.

Yeah, I think that seems reasonable. I tried to think through how one could be richer than normal and nothing really makes sense?

Yes, I have Omega snubbers on my oil and manifold pressure, and they work great. I tried one on the fuel pressure and I caused a small leak (and it didn’t seem to help much), so I took it off. At least on my setup, putting a snubber in the line adds 3 connections because the snubbers are npt fittings and require an adapter on each end to mate with the flared fittings on the fuel line.

IO-360A1A: I fly regularly and use both LOP and Rop depending on the circumstances. I’m usually between 7-12000’, so 60-75% power. I have gamis and the spread is very tight - like 0.1-0.3gph. I also know the typical cht order when leaned for my engine (1,4 cool, 2,3 warmer with 3 warmest). Left mag is SF with advance, right is 300hr bendix. Tempest fine wires all around. Power set to wide open, Ram air on, 2500rpm. So flying home from KFHR yesterday at 9,500 (~11,000 DA), i lean to peak… except #2 won’t peak. It peaks way late. Like 0.5 gph late. Noticeably later than usual. I set the engine to just barely LOP, like #2 is pretty much at peak and everything settles except 2 has the same cht as 3 and it’s egt is much higher, like it’s at peak and 3 is more lop. Cruised for a while, tried again, same result. Of course, I was crossing the Cascades with my family on board. Maybe 10 minutes later, with zero input from me, I see egt on 2 slowly decline to about where it should be and then cht slowly follows to be a normal amount less than #3. Ff stays exactly the same. I didn’t do an inflight mag check but i will next time. what can make a cylinder peak later than normal and the cht and egt read high? It seems that the cylinder would have to be richer than normal?

Mine is very similar. Causes an alarm at 30psi, normally fluctuates between 20-30. Annoying, but (unfortunately) I learned to ignore it. A snubber might be a good idea just so you don’t have to start ignoring engine gages.

Makes you almost wish you had FI for the cold starts, right?!

And who can climb into their Mooney wearing a stiff wool suit and tie?! In Texas heat no less?!

That was pretty standard for Air Force lieutenants when others in the squadron went tdy… add some 3 hole punches, books and other office supplies to the luggage if it was laying around. Bonus points, once i saw the top 3 tell a lt to remove all the underwear from a bag and put it in the freezer. After the departing flight taxied out, the top 3 called them on their aux freq and told them that there were a bunch of underwear found in the freezer. All the flight crews got to wonder who’s it was the whole way to Vegas.

Before you sell and plan to do all your own maintenance, find a shop that will let you help on current annuals. Then take 3 or 4 days off and do everything you want, and supervise what they do. It’s really the best of both worlds because you know everything that’s done, yet you don’t have to do anything you don’t want to or don’t have as good of skills for. But you can personally do everything you want to your specifications. And you get an appreciation for how long it might take to do 100% yourself.

Just to add something to slightly simplify the good details @PT20J gave you, the amps (when wired correctly) are going to show only the amps passing to/from the battery. So if the alternator is working and the battery is charging, you should see a low number of positive amps that are charging the battery. If your alternator isn’t working (engine not running, alternator broken, etc) you will see negative amps which are coming from your battery to power your electrical system. This negative number is dependent on what you’re trying to power.

Could the power supply be going wonky? I might just try everything without anything in the aux port or portable powered up , including phones for good measure…

I thought someone else mentioned a cigarette Lighter usb power port causing interference too… are you using one of those?

Yeah, nice to have a patch option at all at a reputable place and I bet they have to earn it inside the tanks. Seems very fair.

Might want to check carefully for pee induced corrosion back there…

Also, if you use foreflight, you can have it display the towers around you and it gives an indication of your reception. It’s in the settings on the map page.

You should pull your papr report from the faa and make sure you’re adsb out is working properly as well. It’s simple and quick. https://adsbperformance.faa.gov/PAPRRequest.aspx As Art said, traffic may be coming directly from users and it could be 1090 where fisb is only 978mhz…

You have any hanger buddies that can fire up their avionics next to your plane and see if one works and one doesn’t?

It’s one of the parts that scares me about my Mooney. Even with the factory making parts, there are a few things that seem to be unobtainable… new gears for the dukes electric gear, airspeed switches, etc. I thought there was a way to take the asss apart and replace the seals though, no?

Personally, since terrain doesn’t change, I don’t update it once you’ve got it working… The terrain files are really big and have caused me issues in the past.

I don’t disagree with anyone above but I haven’t had an oil leak get the windscreen yet. I did have a prop get that fine mist on the windshield though… did the prop get “serviced” at the annual?