Ragsf15e

Those baffling issues might help. Use that light in the oil door technique to see any others. Good luck!

Well shoot, I guess I was wrong! I flew your power setting (as you said, it was very close to 50rop) in almost exactly the same conditions and it was significantly cooler than your engine. My cowl flaps were full closed. Are you still breaking it in? Now of course, I have an F and you have a J so the cowl is different, but I wouldn’t think that yours would run that much hotter? Maybe looking closer at the baffling is a good idea. Here’s the engine monitor from the top picture… Just for grins, the second photo is Lop and you can see it’s cooler (#3 is almost the same as it is closest to peak).

Im about to go flying, so ill set mine up just like you did and show you the temps. I’m betting they’re similar although I have an F with the old intake.

Fair enough. Yeah, you can tell from the ff that it’s likely not lop. At 60% power, you can pretty much run it wherever you want and not hurt it, however, if you’re trying to make it hot, 50 rop is pretty close to where you might set the mixture. I would recommend trying it richer, like 100 rop. Id expect to see closer to ~10.3gph and noticeable cooling in the chts. There are folks on here who did break in lop, so i think it’s unlikely you’d have problems running lop as well and that would definitely be cooler. If you’re interested in just taking a look, set up similar conditions to your picture and then lean until the LAST cylinder egt peaks. Go about 10 degrees leaner (cooler). Let it settle. I bet your chts will be ~320. Ff will be ~8.8 and you will lose about 3kts.

That’s pretty common. The manual trim works pretty well for a good long time after it’s been cleaned/lubed and the trim system doesn’t really show up as an issue until it’s really hard to trim. Some places might skip the yearly maintenance that could keep it running easier.

Gothcha. Any idea where your egts peaked? Just seeing their values (which admittedly don’t mean much by themselves), it seems like you were pretty close to peak, but definitely on the rich side… any idea how rich?

Thanks. The bracket makes sense too as that’s how the two stec switches are mounted on my setup now.

I can’t help specifically but I would try calling mcfarlane as they probably made the cable and have the part too.

I don’t mean to take a big detour from the op, but I’ve been thinking of a question about the gfc500 and trim… with an older model that didn’t come with electric trim, is it a requirement to add the electric trim(switch, wiring, etc) to have the trim function or can you have the trim servo installed but only manual trim for the pilot?

Or the power setting is around 75% at 50 rop at 8500’ and 5c oat… then the temps are actually pretty good!

I agree with @Kelpro999, but if you just open the door halfway and open/close the outside latch, you can see both the top latch and aft/middle pin. There is no bottom latch. Can you see them move differently than with the interior handle? Can you tell which one doesn’t seem to be opening all the way? The top latch does have a little bit of a weird movement at the end to disconnect, maybe it’s not getting full throw?

If it’s an 830, it’s not considered a primary instrument. To install it, they had to leave the sensor on one of your cylinders for the original gauge. That sensor may have a piggyback sensor feeding the 830 which will not read exactly correct. Find out which cylinder has the different sensor on it.

I agree with @N201MKTurbo, doesn’t look bad, but im also curious about your power setting… 9.6gph at 8500’ and those egts make me think you’re right at peak egt or maybe barely rich side which is going to be a hot cht setup. Couple that with 5c oat at 8500’ and it might be pilot induced. I would try 100 rich of peak or 9.0gph at same altitude. Either way, I bet your chts will be a little lower and you can close your cowl flaps. @Wingover

I was very surprised how much the slower Vy increased the average climb rate. On my F the poh shows 110mph Vy at mgw, slowing to 100mph at 10,000’. I believe the lower weight (less than mgw) also decreases Vy, so the 100pmh i used the second time around was probably closer to the real Vy and sure enough, I slightly beat book.

Obviously we’re a very long way off (if ever) from having something like this, but wouldn’t it be awesome if you could upgrade your engine, because these are turbo charged (or at least normalized) and all the Es, Fs, and Js would suddenly be much faster in the low teens? We could see significant performance benefits in speed, climb, and high DA.

Im interested in what @PT20J says, but I’m thinking the coastal route might have worse weather and be even less hospitable terrain than inland… water is really cold!

Having just done my annual, I can tell you that the first thing I do is remove every inspection panel on the airplane so my IA can look in. That being said, sometimes he tells me I can skip one or two where he can see the area from the one next to it.

I think they are cool too, but just consider the increased risk. Yes, I know it happens with a key too… but it’s pretty darn easy to leave the switches on during shutdown and kill your self hooking up the tow bar and moving the prop over. I just think removing the key with my red streamer on it is one more step in making sure the mags are grounded. The switches are damn cool though. I flew them on a flight school Cessna and my student left them on once. I realized just as she was under the prop hooking up the towbar.

I know it’s more $$, but a gi-275 fits the panel as well and has lots more good reviews.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking. I’ve had the slop/dead spot before and my IA replaced a heim joint that was wearing. Never had the shimmy though. I guess I would have thought a low tire would move the tire center aft (based on nose truss geometry) and that would make it more stable, but I’ll have to think about that some more.

This is one of those things that seems more complicated than it is to fix. Just open up the top of the mixing box and look at your valve. The problem and solution will be readily apparent and relatively easy. Take pictures while you’re there. Mine was fixed by the hangar fairy and he’s usually not very talented.

Wait, isn’t “sloppiness” from a different issue than the 8” ride? The slopiness issue is pretty easily resolved with new bolts bushings or heim joints depending on what’s causing it (my IA needed to replace a small joint). The 8” ride is from misalignment (vertically) of the nosewheel causing it not to seek neutral steering on its own. Do either require the steering horn rebuild?

It makes a mess, but running it on the ground to see all the panels wet is relatively normal. You could probably take a look in that inspection panel after to see if fluid is entering from somewhere?

I don’t have specifics on your issue, but even for my simple A1A there were two different “options” for which wires were connected to which mag. I guess I’m not surprised you might have different part numbers. When I got the Maggie harness, they actually had me tell them exactly which wires went from each mag to which plug and then they made the harness. They are also pretty quick. (Example only, probably not the right way) Like left mag, Top 2,4 Bottom 1,3 right mag Top 1,3 Bottom 2,4

Imo maggie are higher quality and better priced. And they have better customer service.