Ragsf15e

Also, when you say “nav function” what do you mean? If you use the stec to track gps course through a gpss, it should be in heading mode. In fact, I haven’t used anything except heading in a long time. I suppose if you were actually going to track to/from a vor or if you want it to track a localizer, you would need a different mode, but otherwise it should be heading. When gpss is active it will follow the gps. When it’s not, it follows the heading bug. The altitude issue is interesting. Mine is real good as long as im trimmed reasonably. Maybe check with the folks @MikeOH mentioned. There is a static connection in there feeding the stec “computer”. Wandering off altitude makes me think that’s leaking?

Aeromotors might even have an exchange one they could just ship you while waiting on your core.

I’m curious about your STEC-30 issues too. If you go garmin, the advice from @LANCECASPERwas spot on. Decide if you want/need a full panel redo. If you want full glass, do G3x. It’s certified and real nice. You will have a g5 or gi275 as backup. If you want a little less surgery/money, you can just install 2xgi275s in the existing ADI and HSI holes. Either solution will work well with the gfc500. I have 2xg5s and they are nice, but I got them before gi-275 was available. Id go that route now.

I have used the Novus level 1-3. Don’t expect miracles, expect to use some elbow grease, but that’s what I would do as well. At least it’s made for plastics…

I think I’ve noticed some differences with the cg too (with trim always set at TO), but only if the cg is real far forward or back.

I thought the standard Mooney technique was to start the takeoff roll and just hold that “5lbs” of pull until liftoff and then adjust to desired pitch for climb. I don’t know exactly what 5lbs is but it seems to work pretty well in my airplane (to flaps and to trim). @PT20J beat me to it by mere seconds! And with much more detail.

I think your J cowl and especially the TN are adding the most significant amount to your TAS. Possibly the windshield works in combination with the cowl/TN, but I haven’t seen anyone else with good data before/after showing a significant increase from the windscreen alone. The TN you have is a very desirable upgrade. I wish it was available!

I’ve got an older Yaesu. It’s well built and has lasted but the user interface is not intuitive. Actually, I find it barely useable without the manual, which probably isn’t what you want in a backup.

I see @Igor_U answered with his thoughts, I’ll give a different view. I have an F with the 201 windshield and side windows mod. I don’t know why you’d do the oil cooler relocate. Solution in search of a problem. I think the side windows are nice but what do they really do for the airplane? Now we come to the 201 windscreen… it’s much more sexy than the standard and apparently makes the cockpit feel more roomy? I haven’t experienced that as I haven’t flown a vintage windshield. However, the 201 mod removes all access to the back of the instrument panel which makes any panel work, hydraulic fluid reservoir filling, circuit breaker issues a real PIA. Im also not convinced it added any speed. It looks like it should but mine is certainly not faster than stock and it’s pretty well sorted out. It does help prevent water leaking on the back of the panel, but that’s preventable anyway. So if I was you, I might not wait on lasar, and I’d get my airplane flyable!

Yeah, that’s fair (isa temp dev). I included the temp but was too lazy to look up isa. It’s 0c at 7500’, so I was isa +16c. The other thing that can be counterintuitive is that you can get higher cylinder temps at higher altitudes even in an NA engine. The air is much thinner as you go higher, so even though it might be cooler and you’re making less power, you can still end up with warmer chts just because you can’t cool them as well with the less dense air. I find that effect pretty noticeable by about 7000’ and above with the mooney, especially when it’s also hot.

Ha! No, I have a sensorcon mounted at eye level on the canopy bow. I should take that one down, it’s old.

I took pictures of my engine temps running ROP and LOP today at 7500’, warm OAT (at least for Washington). I have the same Lasar cowl closure. I’m thinking your temps are pretty normal. (I’m in “normalize”, so the bars look even, but look at the actual values) 100 ROP ~10 LOP

Yes, they are the same length. There are generally 3 lengths, the short bodies (D,C,E) up through about 1975. The mid Bodies (F,J,K) and then the long bodies (Bravo, Acclaim, Ovation, Eagle). The 231,252, etc are versions of the K. Don’t worry, your English is much better than our French.

This one is the gps-13r at khio:

I’ve seen/flown a bunch of approaches that let you use lower visibility minimums (although they are only applicable to some operators) if you have hud, flight director or autopilot to DA. So, while nice, the hud might not get you much you don’t already have… unless it has a gunsight. That I would pay for.

Yes, mine too, same mod. That being said, the remaining opening isnt optimized like a J model which keeps temps a bit closer. Yours are actually a little more even than mine. My 3 is hotter due to the known issue with the fins (or lack) against the back baffles but it depends on which cylinder is leanest or richest.

Wasn’t his gear down for that whole video? Seems like a lot of drag could be relatively quickly removed…

For a guppy mouthed vintage Mooney, those temps are actually pretty even and not actually that warm.

Crazy, but I had mine come loose like that too. My eagle eye IA caught it at my annual and showed me the two halves moving separately. He had to remove the lower cowl to get at the bolts, but tightened it up before I started having problems. I have heard a couple other people who had similar issues.

To the OP, maybe a bit contrarian here, but I might actually do a simple 2 servo gfc500 installation. You will also need a g5 or gi275 to run it, but those could fit in existing space so no new panel. With the basic autopilot, you’ll find long vfr cross country much more relaxing and you can spend the extra brainpower on staying aware of weather, fuel, airspace, etc. For vfr, you really don’t need that fancy waas gps when you’ve got one in your phone, ipad and the g5! Just select the track you want for your destination as the heading bug and the autopilot will get you there! If you go with this simple setup, you have the basics of a system that could be upgraded easily later with the full autopilot and whatever glass you want. My guess is $25k installed. You can probably find a newer gen used radio if you want, but old ones usually are good until they die. Is something wrong with your wiring to make it weak/scratchy?

Chewelah 1S9 for a short walk/scooter to the golf course for breakfast. So many deer on the airport! A little scary.

I had the famous “sticky switch” version of the hydraulic flaps, so technically I didn’t “leave” mine down, but I did fail to confirm they were up. When I leveled off, she didn’t accelerate that fast and the attitude looked weird. It didn’t take long to figure it out. A little lube in the flap cable and better checking of the indicator helped. Mine had the crack when i bought it and it was behind the mounting hardware on the stub spar as @EricJ said. I seriously doubt you hurt anything, but I know it feels bad.

How have you learned all this stuff?? Seems like you’ve lived about 3 lives.

Wow, that’s an awesome looking Mooney! Congrats!

Possibly that’s true, however I talked to them when I was at Prineville after they moved (last year) and none of the mechanics had moved from California, and the Oregon ones had plenty of experience but none specific to Mooneys. I would still use them (my own shop isn’t an MSC either), but I wouldn’t assume they have any special experience. Maxwell and a few others still do, not that it’s required for most maintenance, but maybe for something like this it’s useful.