Ragsf15e

I agree 30 minutes isn’t enough, but im pretty comfortable with the 3:30-4:30 that I have on two G5s. I have tested them both many times, and last year flew a 3 hour cross country with both of their CBs pulled. They still indicated ~45 minutes remaining. I’m not sure what the right answer is, but I don’t see flying my little m20f through/over weather so bad that it would take me multiple hours to divert to vfr. That just seems like a day I shouldn’t have flown.

Just don’t take out the fuel tank ones. It will be self critiquing. They do look different, but it’s possible. I remove them all like @Hanksaid.

Yep, you need one then. You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine. There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level. The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap.

An acf-50 spray inside the wings, tail and appropriate fuselage area is pretty easy and relatively cheap. Add that to flying a lot (which lubes engine parts), and keeping it in a hangar and you’ll be fine.

Some of them can fit in one instrument hole (gi-275 eis), but most require more space. We need a panel picture.

There are a few other threads on this (try some google searches with mooneyspace and flame tube), but it’s going to be at the discretion of your IA. Many are fin with missing flame tubes. Mine hasn’t had one in several years. That being said, you should ensure there are no leaks, especially around the heater muff as that can become dangerous. If it’s simply the flame tube, you might want to consider just keeping an eye on it.

I wonder what the benefit is too. I haven’t had oil temperature problems with the stock position, so I have to assume something besides position of the oil cooler is causing the high temps? Mine sits at 185 degrees unless I let my chts sit up around 400 in a climb (slow speed) in real hot air. Just holding a cruise climb and keeping chts under control seems to be enough to keep it below 200 for sure.

Thanks! I do try to keep it clean. Washing and waxing it is therapeutic for me, but the real secret is Oct-Apr is no bug season up here! I’m lucky to find one or two to clean after a long flight during the winter!

Can we call it a convention?! There were more Mooneys in this “Cirrus Service Center” than Cirri today. One for annual and mine for an owner assisted oil change and minor fuel seep (top screw on wing walk).

Here’s mine… it’s a ‘68F but looks totally different, no? Seems to have the same size flapper secured to a seal in the middle. Looking down from the top. I also have the large diameter scat tube in and out. Maybe it’s just a different size sheet metal air box? Yours is mounted much lower too. My climb rates at lower altitudes were very similar to yours. I didn’t start to drop off until above 5-6k…

I had an IA remove my unicorn horn about 9 years ago. That part is simple. Make sure you have a plan to fill the hole. There is guidance in the appropriate maintenance regulations for windshield repair. My IA just filled it with silicon. My new IA has not complained about it and it has held up just fine, but that is not in accordance with the directions.

@Shadrach Mine is a 68 but the valve looks totally different. It’s a butterfly and the seal doesn’t look like it, well, seals as well. They are pretty easy to adjust for best efficiency though. I can’t wait for your time to climb and speed run numbers!

I see my IA do some of that kind of thing while I’m helping and I usually bite my tongue and move the binder/tool/whatever. He is actually pretty careful, but stuff definitely happens to these airplanes. Taking them all apart all the time in a shop for multiple weeks doesn’t help. I guess im lucky to have marginal paint…

Another place it can easily come from is your mags and harness. I had bad noise once after maintenance and found several very loose spark plug connections. They don’t get tightened much, but if they are loose it’s noticeable.

Saavy has an airborne induction leak test. It’s not perfect but maybe worth a try… Page 6 of this: https://resources.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/articles_eaa/EAA_2012-01_flight-test-profiles.pdf

SLC is kind of a PIA. First, there aren’t any great /close GA fields and second, it’s really busy class B. Don’t underestimate how busy it is going in there. Now, here’s my experience… I’ve used two of the FBOs on KSLC in the SE corner. They might be pricey but are full service and nice. If you can land on the east runway, it’s pretty easy. If they say “unable”, and put you on the west, then get your A game ready for the taxi because you will definitely need it. I have used KOGD several times and both FBOs were good and not as expensive. I did find the (contract) controllers were jerks, but the fbo was good and it was pretty easy to get in/out. Maybe at @Utah20Gflyer can give you a suggestion for a good airport south of SLC? Maybe provo?

Wait, did you just say Arizona is too humid from july to august?? I wouldn’t have guessed!

I thought you guys would just use a swamp cooler. Adding a little humidity would probably be ok?

I have heard they do good work, but you’re the second or third person I’ve heard that has a horror story about the time…

Or leave it concrete…

Yeah, I think it was wise to start a new thread. It’s good to give as many people the chance as possible to order one. Thanks for doing that skates.

I know the $600ish sounds steep for something that goes into storage, but I definitely recommend ordering one. If yours is damaged, there’s been no stock (new or used) available for ~5 months and there’s another 35 weeks lead time in this current order. It’s an airworthiness item, so you could be sol. Yes, some minor repairs are possible, but they can get delicate with age or torn with a ham handed lower cowl removal.

Skates, do you mind adding E, F to your topic name? I think it was a good idea to make a new topic and get as many people as possible! I got the same email from Heather and same timeline for E/F boots. They are $606, $310 deposit.

I thought mine was bent right but I also ended up on my butt cursing. Welded a short tube in the end so it now goes all the way through the nose wheel and then there’s a hole drilled through it that I insert a large cotter pin. Very similar to what @ArtVandelay posted.

If you’re still concerned, possibly pull the field cb in flight and see what the ammeter looks like? That would eliminate the alternator and should give a good idea of your constant amp draw. Depending on what kind of lights you have and if pitot heat is on, you might see -10-15 amps. The electronic mags run a long time on battery power.