Ragsf15e

Extra fancy! Needing the gsm as well might be a drawback for “just a dg?”

Av-30 if you want to be fancy.

The way I’ve understood it and seems to work like this in practice… if you’re descending without touching anything, the fuel servo is somewhat compensating for the increased air pressure of lower altitude by increasing fuel flow. But not enough to completely keep your same ROP or LOP setting. You get leaner as you descend (more air, not as much more fuel). So if you started ROP, it will creep towards peak and high power as you descend. It could potentially get to high power near peak which isn’t great. However, if you’re cruising LOP, you’ll also get leaner - further lop - which will keep cylinders cool. Eventually you’ll end up so lean after a long descent that the engine stumbles because it’s very far lean of peak. It’s not going to hurt anything there, but you’ll need to go rich in the pattern.

Since they’re all handmade (the airplanes) and are getting older, sometimes they don’t fit exactly. You might just need to look carefully and be prepared to remove/move that seal to exactly the place on the door where it will actually seal. I think @PT20J had his seats out and put a flashlight behind it to see where he needed to move the sesl (before gluing). The part number you mentioned is the prescribed part, so should be able to work with some (maybe a lot) of effort.

One thing to keep an eye on… new plugs could “fix” the problem only for something to reoccur. Like something causing fouling or whatever. Normally plugs (even massives) will be fine well past 300h. You just clean them annually and check the resistance as described in the videos posted above. Glad it’s working for you! Enjoy!

It says you can use it for either (or both now) mags.

Yeah that would be awesome! Do you need to change the wiring for that? Doesn’t the switch ground the right mag during start?

You can do either, but as @47U said, replacing the left gives you benefits of a better start and you can remove your sos.

You don’t really need to keep chts “up” in the descent. You should see Washington temps this time of year! I descend just like @Shadrachdescribed. If im lop, just trim forward and enjoy the extra knots. You can leave all the knobs alone until pattern altitude or whenever you want to get down quicker. Don’t plan on slowing in your descent though. Plan to level off early and reduce power to slow down level when possible.

As @hammdo said, temp that high should make a noticeable decrease in pressure. Id check the probe.

Was your oil pressure different than it normally is?

I actually wish the factory could economically build j cowls and outfit Es and Fs. No intake boot, even cooling and speed increase could make it popular.

I’ve got the lasar one but it looks similar. The air intake is set back from the cowl closure far enough that it still seems to get solid air pressure.

Could be his warm Arizona weather. I would have primed, waited 20” then cranked for those conditions.

And to finish answering for @hammdo, typically if 1 plug isn’t firing in a cylinder, that will show a higher than normal egt as it takes longer to burn the charge from a single ignition point and it’s still hot as it passes the egt probe. So both bad/misfiring plugs, maybe cold egt, but maybe not. One misfiring, likely high egt. That 1600egt reading is pointing at one ignition source not working in that cylinder. Maybe plug, wires, timing, mag? Who knows. If you don’t see it in a normal runup, you might need an airborne full power (65%) lean mag check.

I have a ‘68 F as well. It’s great. Had it for 10 years now. I fly my wife and two small kids all around the northwest in it. 145kts, reasonably easy maintenance. Nice. There are downsides though… i worry about parts that aren’t made and are critical (intake boot & electric gear motor comes to mind). Does the one you’re looking at have electric or manual gear? Electric is great but it adds in several parts that are expensive or hard (maybe impossible?) to get. Second, they are all susceptible to corrosion of the spar if left out in bad weather and not cared for. You need to have someone look closely. Recently, someone here bought a J and then corrosion was found and I think he needed a new wing or maybe just a $20k check, but it was unflyable for a year or so. If it’s not corroded, you can keep it that way with a hanger and ACF treatment. Finally, an engine that has sat that long outside owes you nothing. Meaning, if it has 500 hours on it and it needs overhaul or the cam replaced in 50 hours, don’t be surprised. However, it may also be fine. It’s actually pretty hard to tell until you fly it for a while. A prebuy will help but can’t predict some things.

If you’re at 17,500’, you’re required to have a transponder (and adsb), so im thinking that atc is going to deconflict ifr traffic or at least tell them about you even if you don’t use flight following. Maybe things are different on the east coast?

I fly an m500 for work and it only climbs 1500fpm around mgw. Maybe 2000fpm if you’re real light. Now it holds that to 20,000’, but The mooney isn’t bad!

Yes, the way i read it, is that if your governor is set wrong (too low) it can prevent your prop from resting on the low pitch stop which would keep your rpm less than desirable, but wdik? Opposite issue is if your governor was set to say 2800rpm, you should still see only ~2650 during static runup. Somewhere around takeoff your rpm would increase up to 2800. Again, im no expert.

Age can make you more susceptible…

I wish Clarence was still here, but I think I remember him describing the “full power runup” to check engine output and trying to ensure the rpm was 2600+. This would rely only on the engine and low pitch stop, not the gov. Maybe there were even limits. I don’t even know where to look for a reference for this… Here a short piece of a hartzell manual describing checking the stop and gov…

If the engine has been modified, then yes, do some research because maybe you have different limits. There should be STC paperwork describing those limits if they were installed on a certified aircraft. Additionally, if you have an aftermarket prop , gov, etc, check that paperwork because you may have limits there. I have a 3 blade Mcauley prop which changes my non-continuous zone.

I think that matches with how I think it should work. What rpm do you have at full power during the first say 0-50kts of takeoff? Mines around 2650 or so. That’s where it’s on the low pitch stop. Once you’re at flying airspeed, the airflow makes it a little easier for the engine and it will rely on the governor to keep it at 2700. At that point, without the gov, you would start to exceed 2700.

I agree and fly out west too, so similar techniques, but he’s in Florida, so maybe cruise at 3,500’msl and he needs to be careful with his mixture? If you use a target egt lean in the climb, you’ll be somewhere around 150-200 or more rich of peak though, so I agree that you can just start leaning from there to find peak.

One thing I have learned from MS is that your governor shouldn’t be affecting your rpm during the takeoff roll. At full power and zero kts, the prop is on the low pitch stop. At some point ~60-90kts the governor Will start to increase pitch to hold it at 2700. Point is, full power and initial part of the roll you should see 2600+ regardless of your governor (i see about 2675 initially). If you don’t, your engine isn’t making full rated hp or the low pitch stop is set poorly which i heard was less likely. Maybe one of the A&Ps will clear up or correct my rudimentary knowledge of this…